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Is there adjustable A-arms for C5?

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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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Default Is there adjustable A-arms for C5?

I was wondering how to fit C6 Z06 rims to C5 and mini-tubbing rear is obvious but how about the front? The 9.5" wheel width wouldn't be a problem if hub contact point would be 10-15 mm further inside.

I know there exists wider fender flares but has anyone thought pushing the wheel more in with adjustable upper- and lower suspension arms?

Would that much shorter arms destroy geometry for good?
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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Wouldn't it be easier to just buy C6Z repros with the proper offset? In my experience, moving wheels IN is a lot harder than moving them out. Moving each upright in 15mm would probably change the geometry quite a bit. The track width would stay the same, but the arms would be shorter and the angles would be different??

Last edited by Its_Go_Time; Dec 26, 2011 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Juhatee
I was wondering how to fit C6 Z06 rims to C5 and mini-tubbing rear is obvious but how about the front? The 9.5" wheel width wouldn't be a problem if hub contact point would be 10-15 mm further inside.

I know there exists wider fender flares but has anyone thought pushing the wheel more in with adjustable upper- and lower suspension arms?
YES very expensive

Would that much shorter arms destroy geometry for good?
most likely not what you are looking for

It would be less expensive to just buy wheels with the proper offset and sell the C6 wheels
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 05:15 AM
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There exists proper A-arms? Where could I have a peek?

I will not have repro wheels in my car. I have had those and destroyed them in just minor potholes, those seem to be very soft material when compared to oem wheels. Not to mention weight and coating quality.

Right now I'm just playing with the idea of moving the front wheel 10 mm inside. Before I go to wider fenders, I want to make sure its wiser than moving the wheel.

If I'd move the hub 10 mm deeper (It'd be easy with my access to CNC tooling), I'd have to make some interesting modifications to brake caliper bracketry in the hub to allow the brake disc move that same amount in.. Not very excited about that.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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The Proper A-arms are the STOCK A-arms. Your wheels have the wrong Offset for your hub design.

Do not make it any more difficult then you have too

Again getting the proper wheels with offset would be a better option. and less expensive.

Getting some good wheels like CCW with the proper offset will run $3,000 a set.

The adjustable A-arms run $5,000 a pair and you need 2 pairs.

then new suspension set up to fit the A-arms, another $10,000+

Unless your made of money and have nothing but time on your hands.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Juhatee

If I'd move the hub 10 mm deeper (It'd be easy with my access to CNC tooling), I'd have to make some interesting modifications to brake caliper bracketry in the hub to allow the brake disc move that same amount in.. Not very excited about that.
I did something like this, but I only moved the hubs in about 5mm. I did it to get a little more clearance around my big calipers. For a small shift like this, the calipers can easily be moved, but 10-15mm not so much. Taking that much material out of the centre and the off the ears will probably begin to affect the strength of the upright. Now I have custom uprights and calipers which will need to be copied if I ever need to replace something.

I did use spacers to move the wheels back out to where they started, avoiding any geometry changes.

Its a lot of work my friend...how married are you to those wheels?



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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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Quite married I have an obsession to put GS wheels in my C5 without front flared fenders.. If there exists Comp Grey G/S wheels with oem weight and strength but alternative offsets, I'm all ears.

Its_Go_Time: Your machining looks exactly like I was planning to but as you noted, machining 10-15 mm out of caliper ears is not an option. I have Stoptech calipers but they are bolted to those same ears so no help from there..
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Juhatee
Its_Go_Time: Your machining looks exactly like I was planning to but as you noted, machining 10-15 mm out of caliper ears is not an option. I have Stoptech calipers but they are bolted to those same ears so no help from there..
Moving it like this, the rotor will start rubbing against the lower balljoint long before you get to 15mm anyway.

You can't machine it off the wheel. So I guess the only way to get these wheels to fit would be to use shorter arms.

Now, if you're handy, I'm sure they could be made for far less than 10 grand, I would personally think hard before doing this.

And I certainly wouldn't pay that much for possibly dodgy suspension geometry. I'm definitely not an expert at suspension design, but I have to think that GM chose those angles and lengths very carefully. Messing that all up just to get some wheels to fit doesn't make any sense to me.

Besides, anyone who notices your non C5 wheels is gonna think that either these wheels just bolted on, or that they are repros that just bolted on. Imagine the look on buddy's face when you then tell him how much you spent to get 'em mounted

Since you're married to it, I'd think about the body mods as the best solution here.
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