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Anyone have a link to a good step by step procedure for changing the oil pressure unit on an LS1? I have an 04 that needs one replaced, just would like to get a good set of directions.
Anyone have a link to a good step by step procedure for changing the oil pressure unit on an LS1? I have an 04 that needs one replaced, just would like to get a good set of directions.
So after debating which way to go, I went ahead and did the "cut a hole" method since there will very likely be a next time. It took about 2 hours but wasn't too bad.
I would add a couple points. First, placing a piece of metal under the area you're cutting is a good tip. I slipped an old license plate under there and it worked great. Also, you really need a thin wall 1 1/16th socket or at the very least a 12 point. I don't know if the early models were different than my 04, but the sending unit is right up against a bolt and flange for the fuel rail, very hard to get in there.
Anyways, here's a few pics, thanks again.
The "hole"
The little booger that caused all the problems;
Original fiberglass piece (less several small slivers still in my hand) and 200 mph tape installed;
It's an LS1 again;
Really not as bad as I thought it would be. Sure don't want to do it again anytime soon.
So after debating which way to go, I went ahead and did the "cut a hole" method since there will very likely be a next time. It took about 2 hours but wasn't too bad.
To each their own but you probably could have pulled your manifold (if it's your first time doing it) and replaced it the right way then reinstalled everything in not much more than two hours. Now that I've had the manifold off a few times I can do it MUCH faster than that. It's really only the first time that it takes a while...
It's also a good opportunity to clean some of the gunk that accumulates on your block off while you're at it.
To each their own but you probably could have pulled your manifold (if it's your first time doing it) and replaced it the right way then reinstalled everything in not much more than two hours. Now that I've had the manifold off a few times I can do it MUCH faster than that. It's really only the first time that it takes a while...
It's also a good opportunity to clean some of the gunk that accumulates on your block off while you're at it.
Ok, i agree with its not great to cut in to the car in any way but i don't think its a good idea to insult someone because of it. people can make there own choices. the fact that some one didn't make the same choice you made doesn't mean you should cut them down about it.
thanks for the thread. Ive heard about this method and wanted to know what it involved.
The speculation of the frequent failures is related to the Vibration that is produced by the engine block. Installing a remote sensor is a clean and one of the nicest modifications that is available for our Vettes. I pulled the intake, cleaned the valley cover, the rear of the block and installed a remote sensor with no problem at all. The sensor is hidden by the engine cover and is a clean install
The speculation of the frequent failures is related to the Vibration that is produced by the engine block.
that and people over torque it. It just needs 15 or 17lbs that's it. That's why they fail after a week or 2 when a new one is installed I always ask did you torque it to spec in which they said no and it's to late they already crushed it...
I used the method on you tube. I bought a special socket from advance 1 1/16 inch
3/8 drive. I did not remove the manifold or cut the car . Everyone has their own way I cant bring myself to cut a hole in my car ....
I removed the intake manifold. It is much easier than you think. Most if the project is unplugging things.removing 10 bolts. Change the Pressure switch. put it back on. I left the fuel line attached. Tip: Wrap a piece of tape around the rear 2 bolts under the cowl, so they don't drop when moving the intake forward. Once they are out from under the cowl you can remove them if you want.