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How to remove intake? (fast 90)

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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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Default How to remove intake? (fast 90)

Hello,
Im thinking about painting my intake manifold.
How involved is it? Do you just remove the 6 bolts or so on each side? Im assuming also the fuel rail? I've never done any real work under the hood yet (plenty on other cars though)

Just wondering if its worth it and the time it takes.
Thanks!!
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Plenty of threads on this (see oil pressure sender repair), you might want to relocate the OPS while you have the intake off.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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Is there way to tell if it was already done? the previous owner had a lot done to the motor, so im wondering if it was already done.

when I searched for intake removal I didn't find anything. but ill search again
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rtpassini
Is there way to tell if it was already done? the previous owner had a lot done to the motor, so im wondering if it was already done.

when I searched for intake removal I didn't find anything. but ill search again
You don't sound to confident about this task. Why not get some help from local forum members? You buy the beer and pizza, and learn something at the same time. I believe there are quite a few guys up in Wisconsin that turn their own wrenches.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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im plenty confident. I've had my sportbikes torn down to just the frames. Ive redone 70's boat motors. I've done custom swaps on imports that included completely rewiring the engine harness and repinning the ecu before most shops even knew how to do it. and that was right out of highschool.

Its just that this is my first "modern domestic" and my first ls1/vette. So I was just wondering if the time and effort is worth it, or to buy a cover for it. but yeah, Theres a few guys i can call on if needed. I just dont like to unless I HAVE to.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rtpassini
im plenty confident. I've had my sportbikes torn down to just the frames. Ive redone 70's boat motors. I've done custom swaps on imports that included completely rewiring the engine harness and repinning the ecu before most shops even knew how to do it. and that was right out of highschool.

Its just that this is my first "modern domestic" and my first ls1/vette. So I was just wondering if the time and effort is worth it, or to buy a cover for it. but yeah, Theres a few guys i can call on if needed. I just dont like to unless I HAVE to.
Ok, just a suggestion. Personally, I think the FAST intakes look awesome painted, and you can have it done in just about any color you can think of. Some go the extra distance, and shave off the FAST logo. Perhaps posting pics of your setup will help people guide you. Not knowing how you have the MAP connected, vacuum line, if you have a fuel pressure regulator, throttle body bypass, etc....makes it difficult to discern the intrinsic differences between a factory intake removal, and your setup.

**edit** scratch the throttle body bypass....as you have a 90mm setup.

Last edited by lucky131969; Dec 31, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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theres an ls2 throttle body too. I'll post a pic in a bit.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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Heres that old link to the oil pressure sensor, it will give you a rough idea on removing yours, go for the paint, it looks alot better than tacky covers


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...um_id=1&arch=1
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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heres a pic of my setup

so it looks like im going to have to pick up a fuel rail removal tool?
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rtpassini
heres a pic of my setup

so it looks like im going to have to pick up a fuel rail removal tool?
Do you mean a fuel line disconnect tool? If so, they are available at your local auto parts store. Based on the pic, nothing earth shattering.. Removal will be the same as a stock manifold, with the exception of the specific vacuum line location, no coolant line on the throttle body, etc. Based on your stated expertise/experience, this should be a piece of cake for you. Import or Domestic, an engine is an engine. You'll just need torque specs for reassembly.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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lol. yeah, sorry wrong part. do places like autozone or advance auto parts have them? those are the only two local places. although i suppose i can just call them.

Im assuming that there isnt any lines connected to the back of the intake like the stock one?

also, Do I need to replace the seals? I read somewhere if you remove it, you should replace them. Thanks for all the help everyone!
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rtpassini
lol. yeah, sorry wrong part. do places like autozone or advance auto parts have them? those are the only two local places. although i suppose i can just call them.

Im assuming that there isnt any lines connected to the back of the intake like the stock one?

also, Do I need to replace the seals? I read somewhere if you remove it, you should replace them. Thanks for all the help everyone!
Yes, either of those autoparts stores will have them.

There is not enough detail in the pic, so I cannot see how you have the MAP connected. There will be one small vacuum line for the A/C controls, and one large to the brake booster.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rtpassini
lol. yeah, sorry wrong part. do places like autozone or advance auto parts have them? those are the only two local places. although i suppose i can just call them.

Im assuming that there isnt any lines connected to the back of the intake like the stock one?

also, Do I need to replace the seals? I read somewhere if you remove it, you should replace them. Thanks for all the help everyone!
I've done this numerous times, it's not hard at all and it sounds like you've got the necessary skills to do it yourself. There are 2 vacuum lines connected to the back of the manifold, a large one for the brake booster and a small one for something else, (can't remember exactly what for). From looking at the pic you posted your MAP sensor is in the stock location too, so be careful removing it. You shouldn't need to replace the seals unless they get damaged during the removal which is highly unlikely. Any auto parts store should have the fuel line disconnect tool and they are pretty cheap. Be sure to de-pressurize the fuel rail through the schrader valve before you disconnect the fuel line from it. Hope this helps and good luck. Be sure to post up when finished.

Jimbo
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