Picked up a 2003 C5Z about three months ago from Dallas bone stock with chrome Z06 replicas. I lowered it and put some C6Z Spyder wheels on it.

That's a before and after pic!! Bad quality on the before picture, though...

Anywho! All was well on my way to work, but when I went to back into "my" parking space, the tranny wouldn't shift into reverse. I figured it was a lockout so I turned off the car to try to put it into reverse. Still wouldn't let me into reverse with the key off... So I had to park like a normal person lol

I did some research that day about the bushing on the shifter. I had my heart set on all my woes being fixed by a simple bushing! Rolled the car out and started my 60 mile commute home. Half way through my commute, my gauges started blinking that the transmission was hot. Really hot. Like 270* hot!! I pulled over to let it cool. When it had cooled down I got back on the highway and the temps were fine, staying between 160-210. When I arrived home, my muscle memory of backing into a parking space took over and I decided to try reverse again. This time, it went all the way to the right, where reverse is supposed to be. I let the clutch out and a sick, horrible, teeth clenching rattle came out of the transmission. Turns out I can leave the clutch out and put the tranny into reverse... Ouch right??? With the car in neutral and the clutch out, the same chatter in the tranny can be heard. I tried turning the car off, putting the shifter in reverse and starting the car again but still no reverse. I've heard the tabs on the shift forks are plastic. Could this cause my problem? Either way that transmission needs to come out...But I need and would appreciate some pointers on what parts to order so I can have them on stand-by for when the transmission comes out.

Sorry about the long story, I just wanted to be very thorough. BTW the car is still bone stock, no mods to the drivetrain what-so-ever

Thanks in advance!!

 

It is most likely your reverse fork pads and after years of grinding reverse (99% of the T56 needs reverse gear during overhaul) you will need both. See for yourself. This is 5-6 fork but reverse uses the same pads.

 

The problem you're having is the exact reason I have a shiny rebuild from Rick sitting in my garage waiting for me to install.

Give him a call, you won't be disappointed.

 

If its just reverse, and the associated reverse components, the R&R isnt all that difficult and do able by the average C5er. BUT,,,,, if you have to repair/rebuild anything else,, give Rick a call and arrange shipment!

Heres a post that gives you an idea what is inside your tranny and what goes into R&R!

- C5 ragtopws6, T-56 Build (whats in my tranny?) : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...-smoother.html

While you have the drive train out,,,,, here are some OTHER upgrade things that you can consiter:


- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

Bill

 

The ZO6 clutch is good and will hold up pretty well on a stock of lightly modified C5Z that isnt track abused..

IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you ever plan or do any modifications that bring the RWHP level above 400 HP,,,,,,, change the clutch NOW unless you like/enjoy drive train removal!

Bill

 

Thanks guys! Ragtopws6 is my old user name before I became a site sponsor.

 

Rick

I really enjoyed conversing with Ragtopws6. EXTREMELY knowledgeable person, easy to ask questions about drive train stuff, phenomenal detailed repair post etc.etc.....

When Rick@RKT56 started fixing transmissions and providing services, I felt bad about referencing people to Rick@RKT56 and not Ragtopws6.

BOY,,,,,,,,,,, Now I feel a WHOLE LOT BETTER!

Your services ROCK!

Bill

Hey,, If your ever in the North East and close to CT,, let me know and I will get you a personal tour on one of the Submarines that we support~!

 

Thanks Bill, came out of hibernation to post. LOL. Thank you for the invite, I'll make sure to contact you if I'm up that way.

PS: same car in the sig.

 

Thanks for all the info guys!!

 

I have the same problem once in awhile, I go for reverse and it wont even go into the gate like the reverse lock out soleniod is activated. I if
I push real hard to the right it will go, then I can push it right up into reverse. Then it will be fine for a month or two. Never any grinding or anything.

 

Your problem sounds like binding reverse lock out solenoid. Some members have removed it and tried to repair it but at the end, they ended up replacing the solenoid.

 

Hi Rick,
If I need one do you sell them? About what do they cost? I don't want to get stuck not being able to reverse out.

Thanks
Christian

 

I do have some used but your best bet is to purchase a new unit. I think any of out vendors should have them for $125. It's a newer design so don't worry if the solenoid is smaller in the new box.

 

Anyone who enjoys drive train removal is a sick individual.

I say if he has it dropped, may as well do the rest of everything else, new clutch, hydraulics, speed bleeder, etc.

At that point, may as well do headers, too.

 

Only took about 4 hours start to finish... Looks messy I know but I sorted out everything on the floor later

Popped the top on the tranny and bearings started rolling out. Not to mention a few rings lololol The gears on the main shaft look good, no pitting or teeth chipped. So I have my fingers crossed that it's just reverse that's toasted