Front lowering bolts stuck
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
Front lowering bolts available new?
Hi all,
I am rebuilding/cleaning the front suspension.
The lowering bolts are badly rusted/stuck. I broke the hex off the top of one. Are they available new?
Ron
I am rebuilding/cleaning the front suspension.
The lowering bolts are badly rusted/stuck. I broke the hex off the top of one. Are they available new?
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jan 7, 2012 at 03:16 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
The C5 lowering bolts are not available through GM separately. They come with new springs.
You can find replacement alternatives through the after market...try HARDBAR USA. You might find some used in the classified section.
You can buy the C6 adjustment bolts separately through GM and the aftermarket, however. They will work, but the rubber bumper pad is thinner so the car may sit lower.
Chances are you're going to need another front spring anyway if the adjustment bolt is rusted. Forcing it may break the threaded insert loose in the composite spring.
You can find replacement alternatives through the after market...try HARDBAR USA. You might find some used in the classified section.
You can buy the C6 adjustment bolts separately through GM and the aftermarket, however. They will work, but the rubber bumper pad is thinner so the car may sit lower.
Chances are you're going to need another front spring anyway if the adjustment bolt is rusted. Forcing it may break the threaded insert loose in the composite spring.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
Thanks. I will do my best not to ruin the spring. Will it take any heat at all? I have had PB on it for a week.
Mine had been lowered all the way by a previous owner, I was intending to raise it a bit.
I'll tell you, this car grew up in NJ and was clearly driven in the winter on salted roads. What a way to trash a nice car.
Ron
Mine had been lowered all the way by a previous owner, I was intending to raise it a bit.
I'll tell you, this car grew up in NJ and was clearly driven in the winter on salted roads. What a way to trash a nice car.
Ron
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Thanks. I will do my best not to ruin the spring. Will it take any heat at all? I have had PB on it for a week.
Mine had been lowered all the way by a previous owner, I was intending to raise it a bit.
I'll tell you, this car grew up in NJ and was clearly driven in the winter on salted roads. What a way to trash a nice car.
Ron
Mine had been lowered all the way by a previous owner, I was intending to raise it a bit.
I'll tell you, this car grew up in NJ and was clearly driven in the winter on salted roads. What a way to trash a nice car.
Ron
You might have to remove the spring out of the Vette and work from the bottom on the foot, since the HEX is busted - perhaps use a Pipe Wrench on the foot pad to back it out -
Make sure you put Anti-Seize on the threads when you put in new ones + a dab of GREASE where the foot sits on the A-Arm it will make future adjustments very, very easy!
I have a set on my old broken spring I was holding onto in case of an emergency - Pm or Email me about them!
Thanks,Matt
madmatt9471@sbcglobal.net
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
Thanks Matt.
I have it double nutted now and still won't budge. I'll let it soak while I clean the control arms and other parts. That will take all the rest of the day, so maybe tomorrow I'll give it a try. Next step will be to cut it off and drill it out. Not much to lose at this point.
And this all started as a head cam swap, I figured I clean the suspension while waiting for engine parts to arrive.......
I have it double nutted now and still won't budge. I'll let it soak while I clean the control arms and other parts. That will take all the rest of the day, so maybe tomorrow I'll give it a try. Next step will be to cut it off and drill it out. Not much to lose at this point.
And this all started as a head cam swap, I figured I clean the suspension while waiting for engine parts to arrive.......
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Thanks Matt.
I have it double nutted now and still won't budge. I'll let it soak while I clean the control arms and other parts. That will take all the rest of the day, so maybe tomorrow I'll give it a try. Next step will be to cut it off and drill it out. Not much to lose at this point.
And this all started as a head cam swap, I figured I clean the suspension while waiting for engine parts to arrive.......
I have it double nutted now and still won't budge. I'll let it soak while I clean the control arms and other parts. That will take all the rest of the day, so maybe tomorrow I'll give it a try. Next step will be to cut it off and drill it out. Not much to lose at this point.
And this all started as a head cam swap, I figured I clean the suspension while waiting for engine parts to arrive.......
Thanks,Matt
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
I had one stuck too. Soaked with PB blaster but was still rounding off the hex. I used the pipe wrench on the round pad trick and it worked for me. Guess I got lucky. This was on a used spring I bought.
Good note about road salt. In a somewhat recent thread, some were of the opinion that winter driving was no big deal. I personally wouldn't even consider it.
Good note about road salt. In a somewhat recent thread, some were of the opinion that winter driving was no big deal. I personally wouldn't even consider it.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
That sucker is out-a-there!
Double nut on top, big channel locks on the bottom and it broke free.
That dang thing was bent! So I sawed the top off flush with the spring and channel locked it out the bottom.
Saved the spring. Whew!
I wonder what the other side is like. Better start the PB bath now.
Here is how bad this corrosion is:
Thanks all.
Ron
Double nut on top, big channel locks on the bottom and it broke free.
That dang thing was bent! So I sawed the top off flush with the spring and channel locked it out the bottom.
Saved the spring. Whew!
I wonder what the other side is like. Better start the PB bath now.
Here is how bad this corrosion is:
Thanks all.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jan 7, 2012 at 08:02 PM.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
With the lower control arm off, it was easy to get at the washer. Here is a photo of the spindle and lower arm cleaned.
Lots of NAPA Aluminum Brightener and elbow grease.
Ron
Lots of NAPA Aluminum Brightener and elbow grease.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jan 8, 2012 at 01:04 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,842
Likes: 230
From: SANTA CRUZ CA
Suggestion to use a 'chaser' vs. a tap is sage advice. Also, it is recommended to use a grade 8 (or higher) replacement bolt. A grade 8 bolt will have 6 radial arms marked on the head of the bolt.
Last edited by don hall; Jan 8, 2012 at 12:02 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Whatever bolts are used, coating them with a light application of anti seize couldn't hurt since there has been corrosion issues.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
Got it on the thread chasing. That was the plan. I'm thinking with all this work on the engine etc, I ought to just buy a chaser kit.
The stock bolt couldn't have been grade 8. The sawsall cut through it like butter.
With a little inginuity, a guy could just make his own adjusting bolts. True Value has grade 10.9 bolts that would work.
The stock bolt couldn't have been grade 8. The sawsall cut through it like butter.
With a little inginuity, a guy could just make his own adjusting bolts. True Value has grade 10.9 bolts that would work.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Ron is working on his front adjuster bolts.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 406
From: Portland OR
The C5 lowering bolts are not available through GM separately. They come with new springs.
You can find replacement alternatives through the after market...try HARDBAR USA. You might find some used in the classified section.
You can buy the C6 adjustment bolts separately through GM and the aftermarket, however. They will work, but the rubber bumper pad is thinner so the car may sit lower.
Chances are you're going to need another front spring anyway if the adjustment bolt is rusted. Forcing it may break the threaded insert loose in the composite spring.
You can find replacement alternatives through the after market...try HARDBAR USA. You might find some used in the classified section.
You can buy the C6 adjustment bolts separately through GM and the aftermarket, however. They will work, but the rubber bumper pad is thinner so the car may sit lower.
Chances are you're going to need another front spring anyway if the adjustment bolt is rusted. Forcing it may break the threaded insert loose in the composite spring.
Also read that the pads on all of the aftermarket bolts are very poor and fail quickly with the exception of the Hardbar parts which have a delrin pad that causes noise.
Makes a good case for the stock parts.
I'm amazed that GM does not offer these separately. Someone has to make them for GM......
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
I looked in C6 tech and they state the C6 bolt is also not available from GM. Is this true?
Also read that the pads on all of the aftermarket bolts are very poor and fail quickly with the exception of the Hardbar parts which have a delrin pad that causes noise.
Makes a good case for the stock parts.
I'm amazed that GM does not offer these separately. Someone has to make them for GM......
Also read that the pads on all of the aftermarket bolts are very poor and fail quickly with the exception of the Hardbar parts which have a delrin pad that causes noise.
Makes a good case for the stock parts.
I'm amazed that GM does not offer these separately. Someone has to make them for GM......
If I'm incorrect, check with MID AMERICA. They have a set (#624-104 for $45) of four C6/Z06 adjustment bolts for '05-11 cars. Sell two or keep them for spares...
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...1-41-7129.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 765
Likes: 30
From: Vacaville California
afternoon all,
I know there has been a lot of forum response on how to lower your C-5 I am new to the corvettes I just bought my first one last November so i am a complete C-5 rookie I would like to lower my car starting with using the stock bolts. are there any photos on this forum that shows or can someone provide a photo of what these bolts look like and exactly where they are it may be obvious if i pull my wheels but any help prior to me pulling the wheels would be great
thanks
I know there has been a lot of forum response on how to lower your C-5 I am new to the corvettes I just bought my first one last November so i am a complete C-5 rookie I would like to lower my car starting with using the stock bolts. are there any photos on this forum that shows or can someone provide a photo of what these bolts look like and exactly where they are it may be obvious if i pull my wheels but any help prior to me pulling the wheels would be great
thanks