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You have $6000 what do you buy to go faster?

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Old 01-13-2012, 11:34 PM
  #21  
alxltd1
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Originally Posted by Kevin993
It's a comp cams XER273HR-14 224/230 .581/588 114 LSA. I really like it because it has nice torque down low and it the power just keeps climbing no drop offs or anything. It doesn't really have the big lope sound like the larger cams but you can still tell it has a cam in it.

It added 59 RWHP and 35 RWTQ and I did it when I added the 3.90 gears so that probably effected the numbers a bit. I'll post the dyno sheet later.
You did not mention heads so can I assume you still have the stock 241's. What intake and headers did you use? Hope you don't mind the questions. Thanks.
Old 01-13-2012, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
You did not mention heads so can I assume you still have the stock 241's. What intake and headers did you use? Hope you don't mind the questions. Thanks.
Hi there, no problem at all! I am indeed on the stock heads. Blackwing intake, and LG Street Headers with xpipe and metal matrix high flow cats going into the NXT Step exhaust system. (borla stinger clone) That is pretty much the full extent of my mods besides the cam and 3.90 gears. When the cam was done the shop also installed the necessary supporting parts for the cam such as dual valve springs, hardened pushrods, etc

Anyway I have the mod bug now and the next step will be high flow heads and intake.. Should be some significant gains. I'll be doing a full write up on everything when it's done.

Last edited by Kevin993; 01-13-2012 at 11:48 PM.
Old 01-14-2012, 09:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Kevin993
Hi there, no problem at all! I am indeed on the stock heads. Blackwing intake, and LG Street Headers with xpipe and metal matrix high flow cats going into the NXT Step exhaust system. (borla stinger clone) That is pretty much the full extent of my mods besides the cam and 3.90 gears. When the cam was done the shop also installed the necessary supporting parts for the cam such as dual valve springs, hardened pushrods, etc

Anyway I have the mod bug now and the next step will be high flow heads and intake.. Should be some significant gains. I'll be doing a full write up on everything when it's done.
Thanks. The gains on basically cam and headers are really impressive. Adding high flow heads and intake manifold/throttle body should also give you another good bump up. Please let us know how it goes. Also did you do a base line dyno prior to the cam and headers?
Old 01-14-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
Thanks. The gains on basically cam and headers are really impressive. Adding high flow heads and intake manifold/throttle body should also give you another good bump up. Please let us know how it goes. Also did you do a base line dyno prior to the cam and headers?
I was really impressed too I could not believe I have 100whp over stock with a MILD cam and headers that drives as smooth as factory. I was expecting around 375-380... All the credit goes to my tuner Jeremy Preston of Horsepower Sales in Pompano Beach. He is extremely knowledgeable and good at what he does. I can't wait to see what kind of magic he does with my motor next. Great to deal with too. I think I am allowed to plug them since they are official forum sponsors.

Anyway I do have some dyno sheets I'll PM you when I get a chance.
Old 01-15-2012, 05:54 PM
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SteveDoten
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A&A or ECS

Blower all the way

STOCK GEARS!!!!!!

No brainer..........
Old 01-16-2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin993
Yes you can pass people in 6th gear no problem!
I can pass in 6th with my Procharged Z no problem...
Old 01-16-2012, 06:12 PM
  #27  
alxltd1
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Originally Posted by BlueTeamZ06
I can pass in 6th with my Procharged Z no problem...
...and I can pass in 6th with my totally stock C5 Coupe....just takes a while longer.
Old 01-17-2012, 08:25 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SteveDotenMotorsports
A&A or ECS
Blower all the way

STOCK GEARS!!!!!!

No brains..........

Long-term, every belt driven blower owner I know of has had belt durability issues. The belt also shortens water pump, alternator, and power steering pump life because of the excessive load put on them inorder to drive the blower without slippage.

And, almost every blower package forces the Corvette owner to lay down his radiator resulting in reduced cooling capability.

Brains would say N.A. and gears.

-

Last edited by Pumba; 01-17-2012 at 10:08 AM.
Old 01-17-2012, 08:29 AM
  #29  
AU N EGL
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88k miles? hmmm

$6,000 ? new LS6 crate motor and dyno tune
Old 01-17-2012, 09:06 AM
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IF you want more power and dont want to boost and want the tq and hp low in the rpm band then you have to increase displacement.. Save up another 2500 and we could rebuild what you have to a 383 and give you what your looking for. We can go bigger but it will be more money. Nothing more reliable than good/big cubic inches built correctly and camed accordingly
Old 01-17-2012, 11:17 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Kevin993
Like I said this is exactly what I did and I love it. The first time I dropped to 3rd gear on the highway and floored it I felt like I was going into WARP DRIVE! Prepare for lots of fun. The sound the cam makes when going WOT is crazy too... I am guessing that sound is typical of a larger than stock cam?

Anyway the cool part about the 3.90 gears is that not only is your low end much stronger but 5th gear works really well on the highway and 6th gear is actually useable! Yes you can pass people in 6th gear no problem!
I hope I never hear "my" cam @ wot.
Old 01-17-2012, 05:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Pumba
Jeff,

Here is what I would recommend:

1) Take your LS6 intake manifold and ship it to TPiS and have them convert it to a 90mm throttle body opening - $ 350

2) Sell or trash you 76mm LS6 throttle body and buy a C6 LS2/LS7 90mm throttle body and the necessary wiring adapter - $350

3) Purchase a set of Total Engine Airflow's GM LS2/LS6 Stage 2 cylinder heads, which come with Titanium retainters, .650" lift PAC valve springs, new keepers, new Ferrea 2.04-inch intake and 1.57-inch exhaust valves, and new valve stem seals - $1,329

4) Purchase a Vinci Hi-Performance Grind #056 camshaft - 216 degree intake duration - 224 degree exhaust duration - .583-inch lift at the valves with 1.8:1 rocker arms - 115 degree lobe separtion angle - $425

5) Purchase a set of Crane's 1.8:1 Gold Race aluminum roller rocker arms - 144759A-19 from Summit Racing - $858

6) Send your differential to RPM Transmissions and have them upgrade it to their Stage 2 level, with a 4.10:1 ring and pinion gear set - $1,795


That totals up to $ 5,109.

You will need to add shipping and installation labor to those costs.

The engine will make approximately 425 RWHP. The cam comes alive at 2,000 rpms and pulls strongly to 6,000 rpms. With the 4.10:1 ring and pinion adding 20% torque at the rear wheels you will be a killer in the low and mid range. This would be a great street package with a smooth idle. Plus, with new cylinder heads your oil consumption will be lowered due to the new stem seals.


-
That is alot of $$$ for 425rwhp. I'd go with a cam ~230 at .050 on both sides, a set of take off LS6 heads for $400(maybe less), FAST 90mm with LS2 and make ~440rwhp with plenty of tq down low. If you want a calmer idle use the same setup but step down to a 224/224 cam and it would make the ~425rwhp. TEA does do soem top notch port work.

The OP sounds like he has talked himself into a SC. I'd go over to C5 Forced Induction and decide between A&A and ECS. Be sure add a set of valve springs when you add the blower. I'd start saving up for a short block next and be sure you have a plan for a fuel system that will keep pace with your build.
Old 01-17-2012, 05:54 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Pumba
Long-term, every belt driven blower owner I know of has had belt durability issues. The belt also shortens water pump, alternator, and power steering pump life because of the excessive load put on them inorder to drive the blower without slippage.

And, almost every blower package forces the Corvette owner to lay down his radiator resulting in reduced cooling capability.

Brains would say N.A. and gears.

-
I do agree with that, idle is in the tuning and some nasty sounding cams can drive just fine. I've heard some 228/228 114 LSA cams that sounded very calm as well.

SC's add stress to the belt system and majority have lost atleast one belt. Forced Induction is also more prone to detonation from a variety of sources that could result in needing a new shortblock.
Old 01-17-2012, 06:24 PM
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If I was in your situation, I would be doing heads/cam all day. I just like a rowdy sounding N/A car that much more.
Old 01-17-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Pumba

Brains would say N.A. and gears.

-
Brains??????????????????????????????

there are 1000's with the A&A and ECS kits, I've installed dozens

Layed down radiator went away over 5 years ago with the AA kit
Old 01-17-2012, 10:28 PM
  #36  
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To the OP, one of the reasons why I love the LS motor is the bang for the buck ratio, whether in a snooty C5 or rough and ready Z28. A & A already have the formula figured out with supercharging. Whatever you thought you were going to spend, increase it by 20% and you will be 80% closer to the actual cost. Seriously you don't drive the car that often (weekends and car shows) FI will make it that much more fun when you do decide to get frisky.
Old 01-18-2012, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoss
IF you want more power and dont want to boost and want the tq and hp low in the rpm band then you have to increase displacement.. Save up another 2500 and we could rebuild what you have to a 383 and give you what your looking for. We can go bigger but it will be more money. Nothing more reliable than good/big cubic inches built correctly and camed accordingly
Best bet right there

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Old 01-18-2012, 08:01 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 93Polo
That is alot of $$$ for 425rwhp.
But damn near indestructible and reliable.

ppl put in as little money as possible for BIG HP numbers, only to go bang soon afterwards.

Pumba does know a thing or two
Old 01-18-2012, 09:39 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
But damn near indestructible and reliable.

ppl put in as little money as possible for BIG HP numbers, only to go bang soon afterwards.

Pumba does know a thing or two
I've done H&C too and 50k miles later mine is running with only changing the valve springs, over 100k on th stock shortblock.

A 224/224 or even a 230/232 cam only is hardly pushing and any reliable valve spring should be able to handle it.
Old 01-18-2012, 09:54 AM
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If I had $6k to spend on going faster with my stock '03 Z, the 1st thing I'd spend on would be the tires, then the brakes (maybe a set of Ferodo pads), and then a set of coil-overs. Once those were taken care of, and only then, would I think about headers and a tune to my LS6.



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