Okay here's the deal if I wanted to swap a cam on my internally stock ls1 what are the components I HAVE TO CHANGE not should only the must swap parts.I have all the supporting mods so don't worry about that.Better yet if I bought a cam kit would that be everything I need?? Sorry for all the questions but its better to ask than just start clicking on the purchase button thanks

 

Call your cam supplier and listen to what they recommend, odds are they are going to tell you the best components that'll give the best outcome.

 

Here is the best site iI've found covers several C5 and LS1 mods--show parts needed with GM part #'s --tools needed---bolt TQ specs--and has great instructions and great detailed clear photos---
http://ls1howto.com/

 

Valve springs, pushrods, crank bolt.

 

Here is the list of parts you WILL need.

Cam
Springs (patriot golds are the best bang for buck)
Hardened pushrods (with the increased lift/pressure u will need these 7.400)
Water pump Gaskets
Timing cover gaskets
Oil pump pickup gasket (may as well)
Assembly lube (i also coated the oil pump pickup gasket with this to ease sliding it in)
5/16 dowels to slide into the vally to hold the lifters up (use 5/16 no 1/4 bc they dont hold, ask me how i know)
Crank bolt (stock is torque to yeild so is no good after it comes out)

SHOULD BUY (added to above)

New oil pump LS6 or melling.
New Timing chain set (use an LS2, double roller requires modification to the front cover and spacers to clear the oil pump)
New Lifters (LS7 is the most common, I also hear Cadillac racing ones but I’ve heard of a lot of failures on street cars)


Cam only is fun, I tossed in a custom grind 228/228 116lsa in my car and most people couldn’t tell and I ran 12.40’s on a drag radial. Plus I am newer to driving a stick car.

Take your time with this swap and wait until u have everything u need. I rushed mine and dropped a lifter in the motor and had to tear into the car and drop the suspension. Not a fun job. Then when I got it running I must have pinched the o-ring on the oil pump so had to drop the suspension and pan again. Luckily it only took me 2 hours start to finish second time around lol

Good luck!

Jay

 

I left this open on my iphone while doing it. Was very usefull for torque sequences!

Jay

 

Thanks for all the input guys..but I have heard that some people get away with the stock timing chain and lifters is this true???

 

if you dont pull the heads, you dont have a choice in replacing the lifters. you cant get to them.

 

new timing chain is important, dont reuse the old one

You new valve springs should complement your cam selection.

Some guys put too strong of spring, just because it is the Name some one else used.

so depending on your cam selection and cam lift, will determinate which springs to use.

 

Replacing the timing chain and gear with an LS2 is more of a piece of mind. Same with the oil pump. A high flow is not needed, but since your in there why not. If your car has a lot of miles on it why not? It could save you in the long run. Be sure not to pinch the o-ring on the oil pump or you'll be tearing it all back down again due to no oil pressue.

It's a lot of extra work to replace the lifters, especially if you have stock exhaust manifolds on the car. But if your hearing lifter noise now you could be better off changing them out for a set of LS7's while the car is tore down.

If you don't plan on future mods stay with a new stock crank bolt, but if your just starting you mod's it would be a better investment to pick up a reuseable ARP bolt.

 

I wold deff. replace the chain and cam sproket while it's apart--cheap and easy--The crank gear is a tougher job-so I left mine alone---Be extremely careful when dropping the oil pump and removing the pick-up assy. make sure you replace the O-Ring and center it correctly before tightening it---Or you won't have much oil pressure----