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You might ask your header manufacturer what they think about header wrapping. Most deny warranty if they've been wrapped.
If they're mild steel construction, header wrapping will degrade the steel. I've seen mild steel headers literally crumble, held together by the wrap only.
You will benefit more from a ceramic metallic coating in the long run.
I've been running Dynamax long tube headers for 7 years or more unwrapped with no serious engine bay temp issues and a much quicker exhaust "cool down" when the engine is shut off VS stock exhaust. SS headers are great.I've never been a fan of wraping exhaust plumbing.
Ed (C5 ZO6)
I herd it also helps complete the burn inside the pipes by making it hotter. Not sure if thats true or not.
I have not heard anything about a burn, but keeping the exhaust gasses hotter means the air will flow out of the exhaust faster.
The problem is that the header wrapping gets wet while being driven in bad weather, while the car is being washed, etc. The wrapping also holds any contaminants in the water like salts and other chemicals. The wrapping doesn't dry easily and your headers end up staying in that moist and potentially chemical laden environment longer than they should.
The moist environment will cause corrosion. Stainless steel is not immune to corrosion. It is just a lot more resistant to it, especially when given ample opportunity to dry.
I wrapped a set of mild steel headers on my old Firebird. There are some other down sides. I found when installing on what was basically an LT4 engine at that time.
It is a royal pita to do. To do it right, you need to pull them from the car and reinstall without damaging/dislodging the wrap. The wrap interfered with the header bolts. I think they interfered with servicing the spark plugs too.
Ceramic coating is what I would do if given the opportunity.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
i had my lg's coated by jethot, mainly to keep them looking good but also to help reduce the temps... i had the headers on my old trans am coated by jethot and 3 years later when i sold the car they looked the same as the first day i installed them... it costs about $300 plus shipping to have them coated which may be a little much for some people, especially after spending $1200-$1500 for a header system in some cases, but in the long run i think it's worth it if you have the cash to spend
Some of the stuff you guys worry about, lol. Worry about getting into the 8's or a better track time first, then you can start to worry about the small stuff.
I was thinking about just wraping the first 4 inchs or so around the plug wire area. I'm having a misfire issue because of heat around the plug wires.
then there is something else wrong. i am using GMPP wires surrounded the oem heat shields on my TSP headers and not one is even coming close to touching. A year later and the wires still look new under the shields.
I have not heard anything about a burn, but keeping the exhaust gasses hotter means the air will flow out of the exhaust faster.
The problem is that the header wrapping gets wet while being driven in bad weather, while the car is being washed, etc. The wrapping also holds any co§ntaminants in the water like salts and other chemicals. The wrapping doesn't dry easily and your headers end up staying in that moist and potentially chemical laden environment longer than they should.
The moist environment will cause corrosion. Stainless steel is not immune to corrosion. It is just a lot more resistant to it, especially when given ample opportunity to dry.
Now that is something i never thought of or heard of.very good point and helped with my decision.....
then there is something else wrong. i am using GMPP wires surrounded the oem heat shields on my TSP headers and not one is even coming close to touching. A year later and the wires still look new under the shields.
I swiched from MSD's to the GMPP's with the heat sheilds and heat socks also. It was okay for about a 100 miles and now my missfire is back. I had 3 plugs on the right side of the engine with carbon tracks on the insulators with the MSD's. I have a few of the boots that are a fraction of an inch away from the headers. I'm starting to wonder if I have a lean condition. I have heard that will cause that problem also where the spark will jump from the connector to ground inside the boot, rather than from the electrode to the ground with a lean condition. I'm not real sure about that one.