LAST GRASP at the sands of repair flowing out of the day,,, Examine the FEMALE pins in the harness connector and make ABSOLUTELY SURE that the female pins inside that connector are making proper contact with the MALE pins inside the sensor.......


The MALE pins inside the sensor look very dark (could be an illusion)

I always use a spare MALE PIN to make sure that a suspect FEMALE PIN was making proper contact with the male pin in the sensor. Most of the time IT IS NOT!!!!!
If you insert a male pin in a female pin,,,,, there should be a positive grip and some resistance going in and being pulled out (sounds sexual doest it?)



BC


BC

 

Bill, I looked at the female pins. I didn't have a spare male pin handy (mine is a bit too large ) but I used some 24 AWG wire (RS485 communication wire actually) and the connector was able to grab and hold it on both sides; the 24 gauge wire can't be any larger and is probably smaller than the male pins.

 

The pins in that sensor did look dark/corroded. Make SURE that there clean (on both sides) and see if that makes a difference.
BC

 

Bedtime, Bill. I'll see if I can fit a small brass wire brush in there tomorrow.

 

These are the intermittent codes I would received when my seat ground wire was broken. I could bounce on the seat at first and get it to move, then it would quit working. All IPC guages lit up and many stranger things happened.

10-PCM NO CODES
28-TSC U1301 H
U1096 H
40-BCM U1255 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
58-SDM U1301 H
U1096 H
60-IPC U1255 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
U1040 H
U1088 H
U1176 H
80-RADIO U1064 H
U1096 H
U1016 H
99-HVAC U1064 H
U1096 H
U1160 H
U1255 H
A0-LDCM U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
A1-RDCM U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
A6-SCM NO COMM. (Now corrected with repairing broken wire)
B0-RFA U1255 H
U1096 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
NO MORE CODES

Over two weeks since I fixed it and NONE of the codes have returned EXCEPT the B0-RFA codes and plugging my CD changer back in may have solved those.

My point is: Maybe when you hit the bump you've broken a O2 sensor, or wire and it's intermittently causing other problems. Also, could be a bad sensor but chances are something is interfering with the BCM communications to other modules.

Have you scanned while running since it seems to get bad when going into closed loop?

Just guessing... HTH

 

Where exactly is that ground wire that was causing your issues located? I haven't had any of the NO COMMS or associated codes (U1000-U1450), but if it was causing your cluster to screw up then I'd be a fool to not check the wire on my end.

I spent a good couple of hours yesterday checking wires, connectors, and harnesses. Went over the O2 sensors which all looked good (thankfully, as they've given me trouble in the past and the driver's side rear needed replacement). I wasn't able to find any additional melted wires, and in those areas where the harness was covered in a jacket I massaged the harness to see if I could induce or reduce any problems but came up with nothing.

I did come up with something very weird though: at one point I disconnected the coolant temp sensor while the car was running, and instead of pegging high or low or reading XXXX like I would expect, the gauge in the car went to 240 and stayed there, and the cooling fans came on. Oil temp was still reading XXX at that point though.

This morning before I headed off to work I managed to get a resistance reading off the coolant temp sensor. It was reading a steady ~6.9kohms, which seems in line with an unheated garage on a 30 degree morning. The car thought the reading was anywhere from 15 to 60 degrees, bouncing a lot. I will see if I can get a similar reading from the oil temp sensor when I get home.

I haven't scanned with anything other than the DIC. I originally thought the issue was only when the car was warm, but lately it's been proving me wrong, like this morning with the sensor bouncing around without ever starting the engine.

 

I doesn't sound like the same kind of problem I had and mine started out intermittent and got worse. I'm glad the NO COMM showed up on the SCM or I'd probably still be looking.



Here's the wire under the seat that finally broke completely off the connector.

 

Unfortunately that wasn't it, not that I had super high hopes.

ECS is giving me an awesome deal on a new PCM with a mail order tune, an offer I couldn't refuse, so I'm going to see if that solves everything. Cross your fingers for me, folks.

Hopefully I'll be grinning ear to ear next week with a more powerful car without gremlins.

 

Sounds like your covering some major ground on your troubleshooting, I hope you figure it out.

After reading your complete thread, I cant help thinking that those melted wires that you recovered could be the cause, did you inspect the integrity of the actual wire under the melted coating? or follow those wires to see if they overheated in another location? good luck

 

The wire looked brand new underneath the melted insulation, and ohmed out good from pinpricks before and after the melt. I followed the wires are far up the harness as I could and found no other issues. I'm going to see if I can't find some heat shielding to put around them for the future though, they are a little bit close to my headers so I don't want a recurrence.

 

With the car laid up, I've been working on the visor. I added a Homelink module to my visor (This thread). I also disassembled a 12V to USB adapter and wired it into the visor, with a little micro-USB plug hanging out where the metal support goes into the visor. This powers my bluetooth speakerphone, or anything else that takes micro-USB.

Here's the Homelink finished product:


I also pulled the wires that had melted entirely out of the old, brittle plastic jacketing and replaced it with heat shielding, and used some zip ties to pull everything as far from the headers as possible. In doing so, I double and triple checked that I had no issues with the wiring (no further melts, no abrasions).

 

All right. New PCM came, so I finally got under the car and pulled my old PCM out. Or at least, I tried to. Is it bad when you need to use a rubber mallet to remove a PCM?

What I found is that the only thing under the battery that is corroded, is the PCM. It's pretty bad. I also found a "JET Performance Products Power Module" connected where the PCM blue connector was, between the connector and the PCM. Ugh.

Pictures!






Look at that corrosion around the module in the bottom pic.

So, here's the PCM mount and you can see a lot of the wires and such around it - nothing else is corroded. I find this very odd, personally.




Also, when I brought the PCM inside and showed my roommate, he mentioned one of the pins was missing in the jet module. I thought nothing of it at the time, as I know that when pins aren't used a lot of manufacturers will save money by not placing a pin there at all. However, I hit the PCM connectors with contact cleaner before reconnecting, and sure enough in the blue connector I found the pin (last hole, top row, this is with the blue guard removed to get the pin out):




So, needless to say that Jet module was NOT reinstalled. So glad I took the time to clean the connectors before trying to jam that pin into the new PCM.

I installed the reman PCM I got from ECS, complete with mail order tune (thanks guys!) with very high hopes. After getting her buckled back into the mount, I jumped in the drivers seat and read my temperatures. Oil temp, 42 degrees, coolant temp 45 degrees. So far, so good, so I started her up and let the car idle up to operating temp. No problems! She revs like a beast.

So, I got her back on the ground and the wife and I went for a drive. We noticed a rotten egg smell, and I checked the codes and I had P0171 and P0174, fuel trim system lean on both banks. I figured it was just re-learning and kept driving. I did notice some throttle hesitation and stuttering (not the bucking it was doing before, but more like an 'almost out of gas' stutter). CEL came on and I had P1133 and P1153 in addition to the P0171 and P0174, HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1 & Sensor 2. We were near a parts store so I grabbed some MAF cleaner and sprayed my MAF down real good on both sides, cleared codes and continued (I had just cleaned and re-oiled my BBK/K&N style intake so I was hoping it was just a bit dirty). Cleared the codes, had P1133 and P1153 re-set but not P0171 and P0174. Still a bit of hesitation/stuttering. No CEL on the short drive home, but still a pretty bad exhaust stink. It also appears I'm going through fuel real quick.

So, a couple of questions: is the car unsafe to drive with these codes set? Could a fouled MAF have caused the car to go rich in response to the lean codes and then fouled the O2s? Will these problems work themselves out and are just teething problems with the new PCM and tune?

Thanks so much for the help folks.

 

Final resolution: O2 sensors and spark plugs fouled, likely when my MAF got fouled by the air cleaner).

Pictures: