Got rid of the pull key message.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,614
Likes: 350
From: No Where USA
I did the recall route and I still get the message but my column does not lock. The message goes away after inserting the key once then removing it then reinserting it. If this product eliminates this then I will give it a try. I was under the impression the clb unlocked the column but does not completely eliminate the message for everyone.
I had the message for 3 years and couldn't get rid of it no matter what I did. I put this in and it went away.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,614
Likes: 350
From: No Where USA
I don't care what a product costs as long as it does the job. I put 2 different CLB's in my car and they didn't work.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 15
From: Seattle WA
It certainly wasn't cost that made me choose this route; I've known I needed a CLB for a long time but have been procrastinating because I hardly ever get to work on my car. With this, it took so little time that I couldn't even make an excuse for myself.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,831
Likes: 21
From: The Voice of Reason!
St. Jude Donor '14
I believe this is a good alternative to a CLB. But keep in mind if the LMC5, at some point in the future, should fail the 2 mph fuel shutoff would come back and could leave you stranded. I'm installing one on my car today but I'm also going to have my car reprogrammed to set the fuel shutoff to a higher speed so the car will be drivable should a failure occur.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
Uh, what? You remove a kick panel, disconnect some connectors from the BCM, remove a connector from a relay module, jumper power to said relay connector and then lay it aside, remove 3 pins from the BCM connectors (which is very tough - I mean, who wants to go through the effort of inserting a tool into a hole and then easily pulling out the connector), slide new connectors in place, replace BCM, and bolt down the ground into the BCM mounting bracket. Only tools required that weren't listed were used to disconnect the battery and a nutdriver to bolt down the ground, total time was 10 minutes.
It certainly wasn't cost that made me choose this route; I've known I needed a CLB for a long time but have been procrastinating because I hardly ever get to work on my car. With this, it took so little time that I couldn't even make an excuse for myself.
It certainly wasn't cost that made me choose this route; I've known I needed a CLB for a long time but have been procrastinating because I hardly ever get to work on my car. With this, it took so little time that I couldn't even make an excuse for myself.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 15
From: Seattle WA
CLB is plug and play. Just unplug factory connector plug in CLB plug. A lot easier than pulling certain wires that may or may not be year specific and this " jumper power to said relay connector" is that a splice connector? If so I am not a big fan of splicing into factory wiring.
The jumper power thing - you need to do that if your column locks, and if it does you just use the unlocker jumper or jumpers you have lying around to go from a +12v and ground source - they recommend your disconnected battery, but anything works.
The LMC5 takes the place of 3 pins in your BCM connectors, two in the lower green connector and one in the top pink connector. You just slide the old pins out of the connector, cover them with the supplied rubber insulators, and then slide the LMC5 pin into its place until it locks. Then, you replace the BCM.
It's true you can just plug the CLB in, but don't you have to pull interior trim to get to it?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
[QUOTE=Trios;1579986110]The splices were for an alarm system that was removed before I bought the car. The LMC5 does not splice or alter any of the wires on your car.
The jumper power thing - you need to do that if your column locks, and if it does you just use the unlocker jumper or jumpers you have lying around to go from a +12v and ground source - they recommend your disconnected battery, but anything works.
The LMC5 takes the place of 3 pins in your BCM connectors, two in the lower green connector and one in the top pink connector. You just slide the old pins out of the connector, cover them with the supplied rubber insulators, and then slide the LMC5 pin into its place until it locks. Then, you replace the BCM.
Oh I see. Sounds simple enough and you are correct about not having to remove panels. That can sometimes be a PITA. I may look into it because while I do have the CLB I also had the dealer recall, which programs in the stupid 2 mph cutoff. Wish I had known way back in 2004 not to have the recall done.
The jumper power thing - you need to do that if your column locks, and if it does you just use the unlocker jumper or jumpers you have lying around to go from a +12v and ground source - they recommend your disconnected battery, but anything works.
The LMC5 takes the place of 3 pins in your BCM connectors, two in the lower green connector and one in the top pink connector. You just slide the old pins out of the connector, cover them with the supplied rubber insulators, and then slide the LMC5 pin into its place until it locks. Then, you replace the BCM.
Oh I see. Sounds simple enough and you are correct about not having to remove panels. That can sometimes be a PITA. I may look into it because while I do have the CLB I also had the dealer recall, which programs in the stupid 2 mph cutoff. Wish I had known way back in 2004 not to have the recall done.
Last edited by craig04c5; Feb 12, 2012 at 11:15 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 15
From: Seattle WA
Oh I see. Sounds simple enough and you are correct about not having to remove panels. That can sometimes be a PITA. I may look into it because while I do have the CLB I also had the dealer recall, which programs in the stupid 2 mph cutoff. Wish I had know way back in 2004 not to have the recall done.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,831
Likes: 21
From: The Voice of Reason!
St. Jude Donor '14
[QUOTE=craig04c5;1579986153]
Oh I see. Sounds simple enough and you are correct about not having to remove panels. That can sometimes be a PITA. I may look into it because while I do have the CLB I also had the dealer recall, which programs in the stupid 2 mph cutoff. Wish I had know way back in 2004 not to have the recall done.
If your clb is working without any problems you will probably not be any better off with the LMC5. It's my understanding that no matter which one you have, if it fails to do what it is suppose to do the 2 mph fuel shutoff will kick in. The only way to get by the fuel shutoff for sure is to have your car reprogramed to a higher speed for the fuel shutoff. As I say, that's my understanding. I didn't know what a clb or lmc5 was a few months ago. If I am wrong someone more knowledgeable please correct me or confirm this.
The splices were for an alarm system that was removed before I bought the car. The LMC5 does not splice or alter any of the wires on your car.
The jumper power thing - you need to do that if your column locks, and if it does you just use the unlocker jumper or jumpers you have lying around to go from a +12v and ground source - they recommend your disconnected battery, but anything works.
The LMC5 takes the place of 3 pins in your BCM connectors, two in the lower green connector and one in the top pink connector. You just slide the old pins out of the connector, cover them with the supplied rubber insulators, and then slide the LMC5 pin into its place until it locks. Then, you replace the BCM.
The jumper power thing - you need to do that if your column locks, and if it does you just use the unlocker jumper or jumpers you have lying around to go from a +12v and ground source - they recommend your disconnected battery, but anything works.
The LMC5 takes the place of 3 pins in your BCM connectors, two in the lower green connector and one in the top pink connector. You just slide the old pins out of the connector, cover them with the supplied rubber insulators, and then slide the LMC5 pin into its place until it locks. Then, you replace the BCM.
Oh I see. Sounds simple enough and you are correct about not having to remove panels. That can sometimes be a PITA. I may look into it because while I do have the CLB I also had the dealer recall, which programs in the stupid 2 mph cutoff. Wish I had know way back in 2004 not to have the recall done.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 9
From: Lexington Park MD
From reading over the LMC5 briefly it sounds like it only simulates the column lock circuit when the key is ON, so does that mean the column will still lock when the key is out as a theft deterant like it was intended? If so, I am ordering one tomorrow.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,831
Likes: 21
From: The Voice of Reason!
St. Jude Donor '14
I installed the LMC5 in my car today. The instructions are very good, complete with pictures and are step by step. The instructions are almost too good. The instructions are lengthy because they are so detailed. But in reality, you disconnect the battery, unplug 3 connectors from the bcm, switch 2 terminals in 1 connector and 1 terminal in another connector. Remove a connector from a relay and attach a ground wire to the bcm. If your steering is locked you hook the unlocker to the battery and unlock the steering. Reconnect the battery and test to make sure everything works. It's an easy install but not one an old guy with a bad knee would want to do on the side of the road. It went smoothly for me with no issues with the car after I was done. I am going to have my car reprogramed so I don't have to worry about the fuel shutoff issue should the device fail to do it's job at some point in the future.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,831
Likes: 21
From: The Voice of Reason!
St. Jude Donor '14
No.......it works like a clb. Your column will not lock after the install.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles IL
I put one in today. Had two recalls done on the car by previous owners and have had the remove key and column lock messages for two weeks. This thing was a piece of cake to install and the problems are GONE!!! I also used HP tuners to prevent the car from being disabled. This got rid of the annoying messages! Hopefully forever!
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 174,312
Likes: 1,217
From: Here
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.....glad it worked for you as the CLB worked for me and has worked since 1999.
Last edited by pewter99; Feb 13, 2012 at 07:29 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Lake Worth FL
Just got in from installing mine as a preventitive, I wasn't having issues but my column still could be locked. GM said I had the warranty work done too. I went with the LMC5 because to me it sounded like a superior product, it not only disconnects all the CL components (CL Motor, relays, wiring, etc...)but also gets rid of the 2mph lockout.
Going into it I was a little nervous about installing the LMC5 because of the wiring. I hate wiring, honestly I feel more comfortable rebuilding an engine than wiring something. BUT I have to say this was a total piece of cake. There is no splicing, soldering, etc... just simply remove a total of three wires from connectors and plug the units three wires in their place. The directions are a total no-brainer, some of the best instructions I've ever gotten with any product. I even went as far as verifing everything in the GM shop manuals. They were accurate. A total of less than 30 min and I now don't have to worry. I'm not affiliated with the company, I just wanted to let anybody thats got the CLB on their list this is a very good alternative.
Going into it I was a little nervous about installing the LMC5 because of the wiring. I hate wiring, honestly I feel more comfortable rebuilding an engine than wiring something. BUT I have to say this was a total piece of cake. There is no splicing, soldering, etc... just simply remove a total of three wires from connectors and plug the units three wires in their place. The directions are a total no-brainer, some of the best instructions I've ever gotten with any product. I even went as far as verifing everything in the GM shop manuals. They were accurate. A total of less than 30 min and I now don't have to worry. I'm not affiliated with the company, I just wanted to let anybody thats got the CLB on their list this is a very good alternative.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 632
Likes: 2
From: Mesa Arizona
After playing around with this car and reading countless threads for the last 3 years the message is gone. I put 2 clb's in, 2 batteries, checked grounds, pulled fuses, left the battery disconnected, took out the k harness,I even replaced the battery ground cable today. But none of it worked. Recently I had 8vette7 e mail a schematic and detailed outline on how it worked.
Last Thursday I ordered a LMC5 module from these guys http://complianceparts.com/ just to hav eit on hand to give it a try. I got it when the mail came today and put it in, took about 20 minutes. And to my surprise it worked. No more message. The difference between this and the CLB is that this plugs into the BCM and eliminates the whole circuit. I paid $40 for it from E Bay and it was worth every dime.
I want to thank 8vette7 for taking his time to send me the schematic and outline and everyone else who gave their help and advice over the last 3 years and countless threads.
Last Thursday I ordered a LMC5 module from these guys http://complianceparts.com/ just to hav eit on hand to give it a try. I got it when the mail came today and put it in, took about 20 minutes. And to my surprise it worked. No more message. The difference between this and the CLB is that this plugs into the BCM and eliminates the whole circuit. I paid $40 for it from E Bay and it was worth every dime.
I want to thank 8vette7 for taking his time to send me the schematic and outline and everyone else who gave their help and advice over the last 3 years and countless threads.
Holdin ya to this! ordering mine now. so sick of the pull key message
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I currently have a CLB on my 99, but this LMC5 looks like a great way to go. It also gets rid of the 2mph fuel cutoff. I don't have access to a way to reflash a change, so this gets it bypassed.
I have the skip shift programmed out, but their CAGS skip shift product looks good too. (The C6 looks even better with a simple fuse change).
I am glad I read this thread.
I have the skip shift programmed out, but their CAGS skip shift product looks good too. (The C6 looks even better with a simple fuse change).
I am glad I read this thread.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,614
Likes: 350
From: No Where USA
CLB is plug and play. Just unplug factory connector plug in CLB plug. A lot easier than pulling certain wires that may or may not be year specific and this " jumper power to said relay connector" is that a splice connector? If so I am not a big fan of splicing into factory wiring.
Actually it isn't plug and play to install a CLB. You have to loosen the bottom of the gauge panel then remove the kick panel where you could break your dash panel pulling it out enough to remove the kick panel. Then fish around to find the correct harness.
I have installed both and the LMC5 is a superior product that is not only easier to install but cuts out the whole circuit to avoid future problems.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
Actually it isn't plug and play to install a CLB. You have to loosen the bottom of the gauge panel then remove the kick panel where you could break your dash panel pulling it out enough to remove the kick panel. Then fish around to find the correct harness.
I have installed both and the LMC5 is a superior product that is not only easier to install but cuts out the whole circuit to avoid future problems.
I have installed both and the LMC5 is a superior product that is not only easier to install but cuts out the whole circuit to avoid future problems.