When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I made this video/slideshow to demonstrate an alternative to replacing the passenger side check valve on my 2003 C5. I got the P1416 code a couple of months ago when the weather was starting to get cold. At first the code could be cleared and not come back for a couple of weeks but after a month it would come back daily. I tried the Bill Curlee cleaning method, with carb cleaner, which worked for a week but then I got this alternative idea on how to fix it. The reason for this fix is because I didn't want to remove the fuel rails and intake manifold because I live in an apartment and working on the car is not allowed. Not to mention this is my daily driver and if something were to go wrong while removing the fuel rails and intake then I would have no way to get to work. Lastly this seemed to be a more complex and risky job than what I was up for.
The benefit for doing it this way is that if you ever have to replace the passenger side check valve in the future its an easy job. Also this is an inexpensive DIY fix, costs approximately $40-$65.
For those who are willing and comfortable taking the fuel rails and intake manifold off to replace the passenger side check valve this fix is not for you.
I'm proud how well it turned out.
Below is the 20minute live companion video to the above.
List of Parts Needed:
1-C5 Drivers Side Stainless Steel Tube=$22
5ft-5/8” heater hose=$7
1-New Check Valve=$13
1-5/8” x 5/8”x 5/8” hose tee (Dorman#47117)=$5
1-5/8” x 5/8” hose connector (Dorman#47094)=$4
6-hose clamps=$3
The following is a link to the Corvette Forum Parts For Sale where you can buy or sell the C5 Drivers Side Emission Pipe#2. Hopefully this thread can bring the buyers and sellers to a central place. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...post1580374471
Just want to say, you have saved me lots of money, and it came out excellent.
gotta love FL with no emissions inspections, just ripped the whole thing out.
baxom, I have tried cleaning the valve through the tubes with carb cleaner. even tried this fix but my check eng light keeps coming back on within 40 miles. you said you took this system out? how so? thx!
Do you need a retune?
Last edited by slowe1956; Jan 22, 2013 at 04:46 PM.
Reason: add on
To 03newjersey, thanks for the detailed documentation on an alternative fix to a common C5 emissions problem. Back when my '01 was under an extended warranty, I received the dreaded P1416 error code. The dealer fixed it and the warranty paid for the repair. The next time it happened, I no longer had the warranty coverage and tried Bill Curlee's approach. Spraying the check valve with solvent worked for a while and when the error returned, his approach was easily implemented...again and again. However, when the P1416 came up recently, I used 03newjersey's slick technique. Finding a used C5 pipe #2 was the time consuming part of implementing his solution. Once the critical pipe was located in Carlisle, PA, the alternative fix was a breeze. GM engineers should have designed the A.I.R. system that way before the C5 was ever put into production. Great technique and great video!
I tried the "Alternative fix" where you install a driver’s side on the passenger's side and feed it with an air hose from the air pump - thus mimicking the Original set up but with a serviceable location.
I no longer got the P1416 code but then got P0410 within 2 minutes of starting and driving the car. I cleared the code several times and each time it always came back within a few minutes.
The 0410 code relates to an air pressure injection malfunction. Apparently the computer doesn't like the short air line to the driver's side valve and the long run to the passenger's side valve.
So I broke down and installed the new valve as on original. Oh, and I had to buy the long pipe, too since I had cut the old one.
If anybody wants a spare driver's side pipe let me know.
I tried the "Alternative fix" where you install a driver’s side on the passenger's side and feed it with an air hose from the air pump - thus mimicking the Original set up but with a serviceable location.
I no longer got the P1416 code but then got P0410 within 2 minutes of starting and driving the car. I cleared the code several times and each time it always came back within a few minutes.
The 0410 code relates to an air pressure injection malfunction. Apparently the computer doesn't like the short air line to the driver's side valve and the long run to the passenger's side valve.
So I broke down and installed the new valve as on original. Oh, and I had to buy the long pipe, too since I had cut the old one.
If anybody wants a spare driver's side pipe let me know.
jooboyle,
I'm sorry The Alternative Fix didn't work for you. But I have to say I haven't had any AIR PUMP/SYSTEM related codes since my repair two years ago. Thus I don't think the length of the hose between the air pump and the check valve or the length of the hose between the check valve and exhaust manifold make a difference. So that leaves the question...
Why did you get the P0410 code after, "The Alternative Fix"?
Why were you not able to clear the code?
Why did your codes clear only after you put the system back to stock configuration?
There are some very intelligent and more experienced forum members out there who could better address your situation than me but after doing several quick searches regarding code P0410 I think you may have acted too quickly, with all due respect. Possibly, the reason why you were able to clear your codes only after restoring the system to stock may be due to the fact that you had disconnected some electrical connection related to the AIR SYSTEM during the process? Than after going back to stock you reattached the connection not realizing it was giving you the code? Or maybe you had a loose connection allowing an air leak or possibly a vacuum leak see this thread... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...0410-code.html
Or maybe you didn't let the AIR SYSTEM normal up on its own regarding allowing the car to warm up from a cold start and reporting to the computer a few times??? Just guessing? I know you say you tried to clear the codes several times but obviously there is another factor involved. Did you disconnect/reconnect the battery at any time? Currently does your HVAC system work properly, are you able to change the fan to blow out of the floor vents vs the top vents? Are you able to adjust your heat properly and go from heat to AC and back?
Bottom line I'm glad you fixed your problem but since no one else has reported this same situation with The Alternate Fix I think there is something unique to your situation which gave you code P0410. I believe you did something different between the Alternative Fix and putting the system back to stock its difficult to pinpoint exactly what you did the first time vs the second. With the new check valve in place and no new codes I don't think you'll have any more problems with P0410, I believe it was a problem caused during the initial fix and not realized. I believe the code was able to be cleared because after the second fix you did something different whether it was tightening all connections or clearing the codes in the computer one more time than after the original fix because sometimes that's just the way it works, you have to try clearing the codes multiple times for various fixes in order to have NO CODES on the DTC. But I'd ask you to report if you get any AIR SYSTEM codes in the future this way you might be able to help a fellow forum member if they happen to have the same problem as you did.
Thanks New Jersey, did your p1416 fix and passed through inspection today. So glad I saw your post and don't think I'll have any more problems with this. I left my original tube in tact and clamped it along side the new one in case I should sell some day and someone wants to put back the way it was. Was very simple and looks fine. Thanks again and great job.
I'll edit when the facts aren't right and I'm honest enough to admit it.
I guess you didn't read the original post at the top, "For those who are willing and comfortable taking the fuel rails and intake manifold off to replace the passenger side check valve this fix is not for you."
Next time you do the repair, how about making a video and posting it on line. This way we can decide whichever way we want to go to repair the problem.
This is a great DYI and OP took lots of time and effort to post this. However, I think there s a mistake with using orginal piping part at the end of the video. On the driver side, the threaded part of the check valve goes in to stainless tubing to pass air in. When the OP used driver side piping on the passenger side, he also used threaded side of the check air valve to the piping. But end of the video, he used threaded side of the check air valve for the air inlet and other side connecting to the piping. So I don't know if it makes any difference which side but i think inlet side passes air in and close when throttle or vacuum present. I could be wrong.
Outstanding$$$$
