I've searched and all I could seem to find was pricing (which is pretty good admittedly)... but I'd like to know the following...

-What whp do they hold?
-Can you use an LS1/LS6 flywheel without issue?
-Any common issues?

Thanks

 

Someone else here probably has better info, but I have this setup and you have to use the LS7 flywheel. As far as hp, have heard its good for 550 or so.

 

will stand by for more info - But thanks for the reply sir

 

Ok cool, so I need the flywheel as well. Thanks!

Anyone else care to chime in on power and/or common issues?

 

Yeah, they are heavy kits for C5s so expect some loss of power. They are significantly cheaper but is it really worth the savings?

I went with ECS Mantic Single ER2 that has the exact smooth behavior of an LS7 but its alot lighter and can take track abuse.

 

what kind of mods do you have/ how much power are you making?

If you are making less than somewhere around 375whp, an ls7 clutch and fw is probably overkill, and the added rotational mass will reduce horsepower. It is best to size the clutch properly to the power you are making in order to acheive the least amount of parasitic loss due to added weight while still being able to hold the power. For a nearly stock motor, the LS6 clutch is pretty much your best option.

If you do end up going the LS7 route, you will probably need an adjustable master cylinder. these clutches seem to let go really close to the end of the pedal stroke without being able to adjust the position.

Also, if you get a new flywheel, be sure to transfer the external balance weights to the new fw.

 

Car should make close 475-505whp on motor and 650ish on spray

 

I put it into my '99 and seems to work real well other than clutch pedal travel/engagement. I did not go with the LS6 slave and master cylinder and probably should have. This new clutch engages about an inch off the floor due to my not replacing the extra. Works just fine though!

 

There are no issues with using the LS7 clutch kit in a C5 as long as you use the flywheel and all. It can hold over 600rwhp. I'm about to try it out in my Camaro with the supercharger. We'll see what happens. The LS7 clutch comes with the Camaro stock.

 

The LS7 clutch is a great budget choice for a daily driver that sees occasional trips to the dragstrip. It does not hold off the line as well as my old Textralia z-grip, but the smooth engagement makes daily street driving much more pleasant. My car dyno'd 470 rwhp as a reference point for you.
When selecting a clutch you need to consider your driving habits along with the car's power. If you will only make occasional track days, then focus on a smooth engaging clutch.

 

Sounds like the right idea to me.
Thanks guys

 

They will hold around 500rwhp. It all depends on what you are doing with the car. If you drag race the cars its not the best clutch to go with. Feel free to give me a call if you need with the installation.

 

Motor's already out (broken valvespring took out almost the whole motor) so I won't need help with install but was thinking I should get a clutch to hold more power.
It'll be 90-95% street and 1-3 HPDE days per year. 475-505whp on motor with a little spray on top once in a while.

 

and then

There is a very important distinction here. It sounded up until now that you were replacing an original factory FW/clutch on your original factory engine. If this was the case, you would absolutely want to achieve a balance match condition as Saber said, by addressing the external balance weights.

It now sounds as though you are having your motor rebuilt. If this is the case, you will be building and balancing the rotating assembly to a finer degree than done in the mass produced/assembled process. It should be much closer to being truly internally zero balanced. This will require you to install a truly zero balanced FW/clutch PP combo. And yes, it is worth it to have your assembly checked out of the box and zero balanced if necessary. They are delivered balanced to within certain tolerances which are often out enough to feel vibrations.

This is an important difference. The vibration transfer path on manual transmission corvettes is such that very small engine imbalances, while still safe for the engine, can result in unwanted vibrations felt inside the vehicle. This is why a final hot balancing procedure is done on the manual vettes, often resulting in external balance weights being installed in the FW or harmonic balancer. Manual vettes are checked and fine tune balanced, if necessary, to a much tighter balance tolerance than LS engines used in other applications. If you were replacing this on a stock engine, you would want to pay attention to any weights you might have. If you are building a new engine, with newly balanced internals, you need to install a truly zero balanced FW/PP assembly, regardless of whether your original had weights or not.

One of my all time favorite topics....

 

if your car is making or going to make that kind of power (even your power on just the engine) I wouldnt even consider this clutch. If you do you will most certainly be replacing it. Spend the extra money now that way your not spending triple of what you should be for a clutch and labor. Shoot even if you do the labor yourself, its a better choice to buy a better clutch now. if I had a car that was making no more then 440 whp (and thats pushing it) I may consider a LS7 clutch.

i said this in another thread. Do you buy shoes where your toe is right at the end? No you dont. I mean sure you can walk in them but evetually you will get blisters.

 

Do not transfer the weights, because the balance the new rotating assembly will be balanced much better than the oem setup, and shouldn't require any fw balance weights. this means you need to install a zero balanced flywheel.