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Alternator question?

Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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Default (Update for Bill Curlee)Alternator question?

On my 98, what should the new alt. be rated at. The voltage and amp. output?
Thanks

Last edited by glassman74; Feb 22, 2012 at 05:35 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:27 AM
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It depends on the state of charge of the battery and the integrity of the connections, but normally between 13 to 14 volts. With a charged battery, mine reads around 13.7 on a long drive. It will read a little higher just after a start or if your battery is down a little.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by glassman74
On my 98, what should the new alt. be rated at. The voltage and amp. output?
Thanks
There were some different alternators placed in the C5. The new one needs to exactly match the original or you will get charging systems problems.
PM EvilTwin he is a retired GM engineer and the Forum expert on C5alternators ( among other things)
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by glassman74
On my 98, what should the new alt. be rated at. The voltage and amp. output?
Thanks
Do you think you have an issue or just want to know the info?
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Do you think you have an issue or just want to know the info?
Bill,
I replaced mine from Auto zone. Then I read the 1998 needs a 14.2V,
and 110 amp. AZ said the one I got is right but is listed at 12V. I don't
know what to think. glassman74
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Well its for a 12 VDC system. That doesnt mean that it wont output the correct voltage and current. Install it and see what the output voltage is.

Make SURE that you read the output directly on tha battery terminals.

As long as its the same style alternator as the old one, you will be fine..

Why are you replacing the alternator??
BC
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 03:21 PM
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Battery kept going down and keep getting charging sys fault. Had AZ ck it and it showed
it was bad. Also put in new battery. Still get charging sys fault. Had ECM checked and it
showed it is bad. No voltage to alt. I just want to be sure the new alt will not screw up the new ECM. glassman
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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The large RED wire on the back of the alternator is the BATT wire. It connects to the battery thru the starter solenoid.

Seen TOO MANY alternators get changed when the only issue was a POOR solenoid connection or damaged solenoid connection.

Just want to make sure that your not replacing something that does not need to be changed. Do you read battery voltage on tha BATT connection when the engine is OFF?????





If not,,, the problem lies somewhere else.


BC



BC
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 07:24 PM
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Yes.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Bill Curlee,
The only way to get the sys. to charge is with a wire from the alt. to the bat. The shop doing the work said their is a break in the red wire to the solenoid. What do you think?
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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ABSOLUTY! Most likely the fuseable link in the red wire.

BC
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
ABSOLUTY! Most likely the fuseable link in the red wire.

BC
Is't safe to run it like this? How is the best way to check it? Thanks glassman74

Last edited by glassman74; Feb 23, 2012 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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NO IT IS NOT! You can run it as long as the battery is charged. Without the alternator RECHARGING IT, you will soon run out of battery and the car will DIE!

If you mean to use a jumper wire,,, the answer is still NO. It’s a good test but NOT a solution!!
Something caused the wire to SHORT and blow that FUSE LINK!!

You may have a MAJOR ISSUE (read; SMOKE, FIRE, FLAMES) IF, you use a NON FUSED jumper wire to jump the BATT terminal to the battery, and you run the risk of catastrophe.

If it were me,, I would jack the car up and carefully examine that wires on the starter and the wires in the harness going to the starter. They frequently get toasted and short out.

That’s your best approach. You know that you have an issue because the wire is OPEN. The fused links are right there at the solenoid area. Look for a bump in the wire. The wire will change colors from red to some other color. There’s usually a brown sealer that leaks out of the joint when the factory manufactures the fuse link.

BC
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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If you carefully examine the picture in this post,, look at the TAN wire on the solenoid. It goes to a BLACK heat shrink and that goes to a RED wire. Thats the FUSE link that is most likely blown.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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Were would I find "SMOKE, FIRE, FLAMES"? Were would I get a new fuse link and what size would it be? Thanks for your help. glassman74 Craig

Last edited by glassman74; Feb 23, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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If a wire that is connected directly to the BATTERY (650 AMPS) accidently gets shorted to ground,, that wire will become SMOKE FIRE AND FLAMES VERY QUICKLY!!!!!

BC
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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Bill what size fuseable link wire is used? 12 ga??? Craig
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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Examine this schematic:

\See if you can find the FUSE/s??????????



Circuit Protection - Fusible Links
Fusible link is wire designed to melt and break continuity when excessive current is applied. It is often located between or near the battery and starter or electrical center. Use a continuity tester or a DMM at each end of the wire containing the fusible link in order to determine if it is broken. If broken, it must be replaced with fusible link of the same gage size.

Repairing a Fusible Link

Important
Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approximately 9 in) will not provide sufficient overload protection.


Refer to Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips .

I can NOT find the fuse size info in the servicemanuals YET.

Still looking.


Maybe the dealer sells the replacement inline fuse links. If its blown, I would see if the dealer has the replacement fuse links.

BC
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