Wheel Bearings????
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: crescent city ca
Wheel Bearings????
Kinda curious, i have a 2001 coupe for only four years, is it normal for both the rear wheel bearings to go out on it? The previous owner had 19 bmw m3 wheels (that I immediately replaced with the orginal stock 17 inches) on the car.
Is this something a person will have to replace often?
Is this something a person will have to replace often?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Trussville AL
My 01 vert had about 40K on it and I started hearing a moan from the right rear. I replaced the hub and it wasn't that bad of a job. It started after Vettes for Vets at Talladega. Maybe the speeds did it in. The left side isn't having any problems yet.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 68
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I had my Left Rear bearings go out at 9000 miles on my 2005!!!!!!!!!! I started to get a sing out of the rear that came on ever so slow.........I was thinking what the (^&$^*(….
Way to tell what side if you get this Sing from the rear.....on a open and straight road start to make sharp S turns...left, right, left , right at about 40 mph. The bad bearing will sing opposite of the turn or the side you are putting the torque onto.
Way to tell what side if you get this Sing from the rear.....on a open and straight road start to make sharp S turns...left, right, left , right at about 40 mph. The bad bearing will sing opposite of the turn or the side you are putting the torque onto.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 28
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
You can check the hubs to see if they need replacement and its simple to do. Jack the wheel, put a yard-stick or other straight edge on the outside of the tire, facing vertically across the tire/wheel...so your yardstick is essentially standing on the side of the tire. See if you can move the wheel horizontally from the bottom, watching the yardstick at the top. You are allowed a max deviation of 1/16th inch at the top of the wheel. If you've got more than that, time to get new ones.
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Wondering the same thing for my 70K '01 vert, I thought it was the spindle nut on the right rear, to a mid speed you hear a whop-whop sound. My brother and I were going to the store the other day and he commented on the sound I said do you hear it on your side or mine, his (right rear). Everything looks good back there, but I think it has to be a wheel bearing going. You also get clunking sounds from the same area when doing less than about 5mph in a parking lot.
I just read about the nordic lock bearing fastener kit. Definitely get those I think to install a new bearing.
I just read about the nordic lock bearing fastener kit. Definitely get those I think to install a new bearing.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 14
From: Phoenixville, PA
Most likely a wheel bearing.
Not sure what the under 5mph is. If the splines are dry you might get a clicking when going from forward to reverse and vice versa.
Not likely to be problem with the nut.
Not sure what the under 5mph is. If the splines are dry you might get a clicking when going from forward to reverse and vice versa.
Not likely to be problem with the nut.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Yeah I've serviced the spindles a few times. That settled the clunking sound when first starting out, but this is more of sound similar to a bad universal but I've inspected them all and nothing out of the ordinary. With so many reports of wheel bearings and the fact it is getting worst not better tends me that way as well.
Have to pull the FSM out and look at the procedure. Wonder what type of job this will be?
Is there a rule of thumb to replace both left and right sides when replacing just one?
Have to pull the FSM out and look at the procedure. Wonder what type of job this will be?
Is there a rule of thumb to replace both left and right sides when replacing just one?
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Wondering the same thing for my 70K '01 vert, I thought it was the spindle nut on the right rear, to a mid speed you hear a whop-whop sound. My brother and I were going to the store the other day and he commented on the sound I said do you hear it on your side or mine, his (right rear). Everything looks good back there, but I think it has to be a wheel bearing going. You also get clunking sounds from the same area when doing less than about 5mph in a parking lot.
I just read about the nordic lock bearing fastener kit. Definitely get those I think to install a new bearing.
I just read about the nordic lock bearing fastener kit. Definitely get those I think to install a new bearing.
Look into Mobil 1 Synthetic LS / 75W-90 I remember that being a problem . Go on-line and you should find step by step photos on how to. I doubt this noise is a bearing issue.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 14
From: Phoenixville, PA
Easy, just some wrenching.
Remove the axle nut (car on the ground is ideal).
jack up car, remove applicable wheel, brake caliper, bracket, disc, abs wire, e-brake cable
loosen upper bj bolt, separate joint
loosen tie rod, separate joint
rotate spindle away from car - the axle should come out of the diff but you might need to give it a tug
rotate spindle as necessary to remove axle
bearings come out w/T55 Torx
install is the same (make sure the abs sensor plug is oriented up as you removed it), but when installing the axle:
- insert splined end into diff (might need a stiff push to get it fully seated)
- lube the outboard splined end w/proper grease
- rotated the spindle and sharply end the end of the axle so that it fits into the wheel bearing splines
- bolt everything back together
This process avoid the tricky loosening/tightening of the lower ball joint.
Remove the axle nut (car on the ground is ideal).
jack up car, remove applicable wheel, brake caliper, bracket, disc, abs wire, e-brake cable
loosen upper bj bolt, separate joint
loosen tie rod, separate joint
rotate spindle away from car - the axle should come out of the diff but you might need to give it a tug
rotate spindle as necessary to remove axle
bearings come out w/T55 Torx
install is the same (make sure the abs sensor plug is oriented up as you removed it), but when installing the axle:
- insert splined end into diff (might need a stiff push to get it fully seated)
- lube the outboard splined end w/proper grease
- rotated the spindle and sharply end the end of the axle so that it fits into the wheel bearing splines
- bolt everything back together
This process avoid the tricky loosening/tightening of the lower ball joint.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
I've been working at this one for a while. I noticed the sound when I barely detected it, nobody else heard it, as time has gone on it is becoming very obvious even to my passengers.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City MO
Easy, just some wrenching.
Remove the axle nut (car on the ground is ideal).
jack up car, remove applicable wheel, brake caliper, bracket, disc, abs wire, e-brake cable
loosen upper bj bolt, separate joint
loosen tie rod, separate joint
rotate spindle away from car - the axle should come out of the diff but you might need to give it a tug
rotate spindle as necessary to remove axle
bearings come out w/T55 Torx
install is the same (make sure the abs sensor plug is oriented up as you removed it), but when installing the axle:
- insert splined end into diff (might need a stiff push to get it fully seated)
- lube the outboard splined end w/proper grease
- rotated the spindle and sharply end the end of the axle so that it fits into the wheel bearing splines
- bolt everything back together
This process avoid the tricky loosening/tightening of the lower ball joint.
Remove the axle nut (car on the ground is ideal).
jack up car, remove applicable wheel, brake caliper, bracket, disc, abs wire, e-brake cable
loosen upper bj bolt, separate joint
loosen tie rod, separate joint
rotate spindle away from car - the axle should come out of the diff but you might need to give it a tug
rotate spindle as necessary to remove axle
bearings come out w/T55 Torx
install is the same (make sure the abs sensor plug is oriented up as you removed it), but when installing the axle:
- insert splined end into diff (might need a stiff push to get it fully seated)
- lube the outboard splined end w/proper grease
- rotated the spindle and sharply end the end of the axle so that it fits into the wheel bearing splines
- bolt everything back together
This process avoid the tricky loosening/tightening of the lower ball joint.
1. What size is the spindle nut?
2. Does the axle stay in the differencial and remove the hub end only?
3. The manual states the axle needs to be supported does this mean so that it doesn't slide out or it can't move or be damaged, what does it mean?
4. If the axle comes out of the differencial is it difficult to re-insert?
5. What are the torque specifications on the hub torque bolts and hub nut?
6. I was going to take the lower ball joint off but you imply there is an issue with this and taking the upper ball joint is prefered, why?
7. T55 torque what is this refering to a socket type torque bit, I used a 8mm allen wrench and it seemed to fit.
I got as far as the taking the brake rotor off when I realized I didn't have the correct socket for the hub nut so I had to put it back together. This doesn't look that hard just need a little more info for the right size tools and proper procedures.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jdperk; May 7, 2012 at 11:59 PM. Reason: adding car year
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
In this post (#2), is a link to download a PDF which should answer your questions jdperk.
Click Here C5 Wheel Bearing
I just had my rear bearings change OMG what a difference. I thought I also had tire/road noise, no that was all wheel bearings. Now it's super quiet and smooth. I was going to do the job myself but after looking at some tips, I decided to pay my dealer to swap them out for me. I had the new AC Delco parts I got at my discount. So it was reasonable five hours later I picked it up ready to go. (Normally, I do the knuckle busting
)
Click Here C5 Wheel Bearing
I just had my rear bearings change OMG what a difference. I thought I also had tire/road noise, no that was all wheel bearings. Now it's super quiet and smooth. I was going to do the job myself but after looking at some tips, I decided to pay my dealer to swap them out for me. I had the new AC Delco parts I got at my discount. So it was reasonable five hours later I picked it up ready to go. (Normally, I do the knuckle busting
)
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 218
Likes: 1
From: Baldwin Park Ca
Jet-Jok thanks for the pdf file! will use it soon
just got alignment done last week and they told me that they felt a bit of play on a rear wheel.
probobly going with Timken, should be fine right?
just got alignment done last week and they told me that they felt a bit of play on a rear wheel.
probobly going with Timken, should be fine right?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
I chose OEM AC-Delco. Check with Gene Culley for good discounted pricing.
There is a GM tool that makes the job easier on the ball joint and tie rod, if you are doing it yourself that tool would be real nice.
Here's where that originated, lots of good tips too what to watch out for.
Link here
There is a GM tool that makes the job easier on the ball joint and tie rod, if you are doing it yourself that tool would be real nice.
Here's where that originated, lots of good tips too what to watch out for.
Link here