cool anyone know the oem number for the rear wheel bearing? thanks

 

It's funny that you mention changing the tranny and diff fluids. I did this on my 20,000 mile, '01 several weeks ago, just before I put it back on the road for the season. A day or two later, I was driving down the road, and quite suddenly I hear what sounds like an increase in "tire noise"....

 

88967288

List for $288. you should be able to get them for around $160. each. Fronts are different and more expensive.

 

thanks they have them for 187, if anyone knows were i can get the 160 please let me know. will be getting it later this week.

 

I had a right front go at VIR this weekend. I repl with used rear I had for backup. Works like a champ. Not sure what is gained by paying extra $$s for the specific front vs the cheaper rear. That being said, I am repl the backup I installed on the front with a SKF before next track day.

 

I spent this weekend changing rear hubs on my 2000 C5 Hard Top. I would like to state my experience and hopefully help others.

- Axle nut is 33mm and torqued to 118 lb ft as stated in my 2000 C5 manual.
- T55 torx bit for the hub bolts.
- Plan on the ball joints to spin and be prepared with allen keys to hold them.
- take the outer tie rod off so that the spindle can rotate then take the E Brake cable off along with disconnecting the brake sensor plug.
- I took the upper ball joint out and then jacked the lower A arm up to allow the upper ball joint to clear the upper A arm; then lowered the jack in order to slide the axle shaft out of the way to put an allen key on the lower ball joint to get it off. I did have to use a 2 X 2 to beat on the lower ball joint to break it loose. I think I may buy a tool just for removing and seating the lower ball joint for next time to make it easier.

- I had the spindle out of the car and disassembled it and torqued it back together which is difficult without something holding it like a vise. I just man handled it holding it with my feet until I got it torqued.
- Put it back in reverse order:
- E brake pad and new hub, torque to 96 lb ft.
- Mount lower ball joint final torque to 52 lb ft with axle out of the way.
- Grease axle spline and slide into hub, jack lower arm to insert upper ball joint tighten and torque to final pass of 41 lb ft.
- Mount E brake cable tighten (could not find torque, so gurilla tight)
- Mount outer tie rod end torque final pass to 33 lb ft.
- Mount rotor
- Mount brake caliper (gurilla tight)
- E brake engaged and tran in gear able to torque spindle nut to 118 lb ft.
- Mount tire and torque to 100 lb ft.

The right rear was the bad one but changed the left to do the set since they were the original. The left side took me about 30 to 45 minutes once I had all the tools and procedure down.

Tools needed:
18 mm wrench for upper ball joint, outer tie rod.
21 mm wrench for lower ball joint
33 mm socket for axle nut (got it on the shelf at Auto Zone)
T55 torx bit for hub bolts (got it on the shelf at Auto Zone)
15 mm socket with swivel and long extention for E brake bolts
21 mm socket for brake caliper
Allen keys I think 8 mm for lower ball joint and 2 sizes smaller for upper and outer tie rod.

Need appropriate short 1/2" drive sockets and torque wrench capable of up to 118 lb ft.

I have not driven the car yet just not enough time in the day. I will probably go get an alignment and balance this coming Saturday.

I bet the front hubs are easier. I used Timken bearings from Auto Zone. I am not doing any Auto Cross or other racing and I read they are the same as OEM just in a different box.