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Broke Bolt in Block

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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:02 PM
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Default Broke Bolt in Block

i have a 98 vett, Well i had a friend of mine helping me change out my idler pulleys and tensioners.. On the main line it was a breeze but then to the ac line, my buddy is smaller than me so he could get his hands in there good, got the ac tensioner pulley assembly in place put the bolt in and started tightening... that's where it went to ****, he broke the bolt off in my block. So i have two questions, 1. can i just buy the bolt from gm or anywhere else. 2. if anyone on here has changed theirs how did you do it?!?! i just wish i would have done that part myself, surely it felt tight to him, or maybe the bolt being 13 years old just was weak... who knows but nay help would be greatly appreciated!!
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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No pics? If it's broken in the block you need to pull off the hood, remove all of the radiator stuff so you can see and use a drill to drill out the broken bolt. Yes you can get another bolt at any hardware store as long as it's metric so you don't break another bolt or cross thread the existing threads. You should really remove everything you can so you can use your drill and drill it absolutely true and straight. A for sure way to drill it out involves taking a yo-yo/die grinder and make the bolt portion flat by grinding the center of it down, then take a center punch and hammer and make a punch mark dead center in the broken bolt. Then take a small drill bit and drill out the center of the broken bolt. Then you have a choice......drill it big enough for an ease-out, or drill it completely out and then use a tap to clean up the threads.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Man I tried my best to get a pic of it but it is very tight in there. And yea I'm going to pull the radiator etc to get it done right. I'm sure on e I pull that I'll see some other things that need to be done, goodbye tax refund haha
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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Look at it as an opportunity to put a cam in, since you'll already have a head start pulling the radiator and hood.

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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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I've had this problem before. Get yourself a carbide milling bit (double flute) and drill it out with that. They are somewhat brittle so be careful with it. It will cut through a hardened bolt a lot better than a cobalt bit will. They are expensive but worth every penny. After extended drilling sessions with cobalt bits I won't do it any other way.

Once I broke a craftsman easy out off in the hole I drilled and had to drill through the easy out. It was a tedious job but the carbide got me through it.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tony75A
I've had this problem before. Get yourself a carbide milling bit (double flute) and drill it out with that. They are somewhat brittle so be careful with it. It will cut through a hardened bolt a lot better than a cobalt bit will. They are expensive but worth every penny. After extended drilling sessions with cobalt bits I won't do it any other way.

Once I broke a craftsman easy out off in the hole I drilled and had to drill through the easy out. It was a tedious job but the carbide got me through it.
Do you know the part number for the bolt that holds the ac line tensioner onto the motor? Because every idiot at the dealership keeps saying there's no tensioner down there, and I'm like yea there is if it was just two pulleys how the hell would you get the belt on and off!?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Dealership guy may not be entirely clueless. Here's the parts diagram. I'm assuming #12 is the tensioner you're dealing with. Doesn't show harware--long shot would be bolt #4:
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...&searchString=
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 02:41 PM
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Is anyone going to mention the AC bracket is what BOTH the pulleys bolt to!!!!.........and NOT the block

I'm not going to post how to rig a Sunnen machine and line bore a Dart Aluminum LS block unless I have FIRSTHAND experience doing it.......
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Last edited by SteveDoten; Feb 29, 2012 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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OK-here's the compressor mount. STILL doesn't show the bolt he's looking for:
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...&searchString=
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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I added the pic above....

OPTIONS:
1. remove broken bolt
2. remove/replace bracket

Bracket replacemnt.........I leave the AC compressor in the car on a motor swap and have pulled both top and bottom to drop motor, obviously you do not want to do this, but I 'believe' you can pull the WaterPump and unbolt the AC comp to remove the bracket(one bolt).................by no means is this an easy task

Please post if you need any help

Steve
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveDotenMotorsports
Is anyone going to mention the AC bracket is what BOTH the pulleys bolt to!!!!.........and NOT the block

I'm not going to post how to rig a Sunnen machine and line bore a Dart Aluminum LS block unless I have FIRSTHAND experience doing it.......
Excellent point!! You really know these cars inside and out!
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 05:45 PM
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Steve i feel like a complete idiot you are 100% right the bolt is broke off in the ac bracket, i used your picture and pointed an arrow to the bolt that im going to need. Also do you think its going to be possible to remove this bolt with out taking the bracket off?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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Don't feel like an idoit, you used the forum just like I have for the past 9 years, I've learned a lot from reading and maintaining my personal Z06's

the bracket is only 30bucks new from GM

have any luck with easyout's?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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If that bracket comes with the bolt I may just do that. And I work for a company that makes specialty carbide tools for Boeing ge power Lockheed Martin etc, and we make a carbide easy out so I'll probably ****** one of those off a Cnc haha! To pull the water pump, and get that bracket off I imagine I will have to remove hood and radiator, correct?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ShaneH85
If that bracket comes with the bolt I may just do that. And I work for a company that makes specialty carbide tools for Boeing ge power Lockheed Martin etc, and we make a carbide easy out so I'll probably ****** one of those off a Cnc haha! To pull the water pump, and get that bracket off I imagine I will have to remove hood and radiator, correct?

it would be insane to remove the hood
........the only time I've done that is for a motor swap out the top

WP, you may be able to leave in, but you'll notice the Tstat housing/neck to be in the way

try your easy out first
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:47 PM
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STEVE

EXCELLENT job diagnosing that issue!!!

Bill
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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thats why you check with our forum......the guys saved me plenty of time and money........thanks to all
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