Clutch Hydraulic Issue
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
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Clutch Hydraulic Issue
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my clutch hydraulics. My Tick MC developed a leak and they replaced it. After installing the replacement, I have bled the system via several methods - the 2 man method via remote bleeder, reverse bleeding/RFI, and vacuum bleeding (Mityvac method). I have performed each method several times and run several quarts of brake fluid through the system. I have a firm pedal, but when I pump the pedal it slowly moves closer to the floor with each pump. The pedal will return to its high position if I give it a rest for a few seconds. When I take the car for a drive, it is fine for the first few clutch engagements and then the pedal and engagement point start moving to the floor. If I put the car in neutral and let up on the pedal for a few seconds, the pedal will rise along with the engagement point. I don't appear to be losing any fluid. My clutch setup is an RPS BC2, GM slave with 300 miles on it, and the Tick MC. What do you guys think? Keep bleeding? Bad replacement master? Other?
Thanks. --Neil
Thanks. --Neil
Last edited by Neil B; Mar 1, 2012 at 05:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
After thinking about the issue some more, my guess is that the new master cylinder is internally bypassing fluid from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side of the internal seal. It really seems like the only explanation for why it's losing pressure after pumping or holding the clutch pedal down and then normal travel and pressure returns after a few seconds of release. Thoughts?
I really don't want to replace the master again, but it beats dropping the drivetrain to check the slave.
I really don't want to replace the master again, but it beats dropping the drivetrain to check the slave.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
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I have long tube headers. The remote bleeder is a Tick unit installed new at Vengeance Racing a few months ago. The clutch worked flawlessly before the master started leaking and the new master is the only component in the system that has changed.
Le Mans Master
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From: Belleville Mich.
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
After thinking about the issue some more, my guess is that the new master cylinder is internally bypassing fluid from the high-pressure side to the low-pressure side of the internal seal. It really seems like the only explanation for why it's losing pressure after pumping or holding the clutch pedal down and then normal travel and pressure returns after a few seconds of release. Thoughts?...........
This.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
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I wanted to add that the guys at Tick have been great to work with on this. They really stand behind their product.
I will get the car on the ground, adjust the clutch, and drive it some early next week. Hopefully, this did the trick.
I will get the car on the ground, adjust the clutch, and drive it some early next week. Hopefully, this did the trick.
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Btw, how do you like that clutch? RPS was one of the ones on my list when I was looking for a twin-disc last year. Any chatter all? Does it engage smoothly and is not "grabby"?
Thread Starter
Drifting
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My RPS doesn't chatter on engagement or rattle at idle. You can hear it a bit at idle with the clutch depressed though.
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It requires lots of attention on engagement. It's very much like a race clutch setup with very short engagement travel (like an on/off switch). Other people will argue that this clutch feels like stock and it all depends on how it's set up. My McCleod street twin was much easier to drive. Having said that, the engagement does feel a bit better with the new master installed.
My RPS doesn't chatter on engagement or rattle at idle. You can hear it a bit at idle with the clutch depressed though.
My RPS doesn't chatter on engagement or rattle at idle. You can hear it a bit at idle with the clutch depressed though.
I have the McLeod RST and have no chatter issues, but of course it has organic disc surfaces and not Kevlar. Not having any springs (RPS) on the disks has always made me a bit cautious.
I have only spoken to one other person with the RPS and it was over on LS1 Tech and he had it in an F-body. He loves his and says even his wife can drive it on the street.