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Okay first the other day on way home from work the gas gauge dove from over 1/4 tank to E (but obviously wasn't empty). Next drive the gas gauge was back up to normal, but again on way home after admittedly getting on it a little bit I noticed the check engine light on after stopping at a store and restarting the car. So anyway, here are the codes I've gone through and cleared them but want to know if I should have the car tuned/and or is there anything I should repair or replace?
B2262 H Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
B2263 H Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
B2265 H Horizontal Position Sensor Fault
U1000 H U1000 Loss of Communication Undetermined
U1064 H Loss of Communications with BCM
P1431 H Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Performance
P0171 H Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
I'll start you off with looking for a vacuum leak or unmetered air getting past the MAF sensor, such as the air bridge coming off or the PCV line connection tube to the intake possibly having a hole in it. Next, you might want to look at the BCM to see if any water has gotten to it via a plugged up udder. Look for wet carpet there in the passenger footwell. Also, just a quick thought, how old is the battery?
I can't speak for the age of the battery though the volt meter reads strong, I just purchased the car in January. I did install a Vararam B2 Intake, no power duct so its possible that I may have a slight air leak somewhere I will check into that, and also the carpet. On baby duty for the day now so have to check these things tomorrow. As far as driving the car goes can I do some harm to it, or if the codes don't pop back up should I still be concerned?
If its running lean, the damage will be slower over time but I would get this resolved soon so that you aren't throwing away money on gas too. The battery needs to be a minimum of 12.5vdc with the ignition off.
Okay, gotcha going to test for vacuum leaks first thing tomorrow; two more questions for you:
If I fail to find a leak, other possibilities for lean?
Battery turns out good, other possibilities for BCM/how costly/involved would that be to replace?
Okay, gotcha going to test for vacuum leaks first thing tomorrow; two more questions for you:
If I fail to find a leak, other possibilities for lean?
Battery turns out good, other possibilities for BCM/how costly/involved would that be to replace?
Thanks for the help, very appreciated.
I'd start with the No-comms codes. Without good communication between modules, any other codes you may be getting are suspect. The accordian connecting the door(s) to the A-pillar are a known problem point as is the battery and ground points.
After a visual inspection I noticed that one of the hose clamps had bound up when it was tightened apparently because it was still partially loose. Tightened it up let the car idle and took it for a spin, came back no engine light or codes. I'm thinking possibly the BCM codes were from when I first noticed the check engine light before I knew about the built in scanner I D/C'd the battery to try and clear codes. Not sure but possibly this caused the BCM codes, hopefully all is solved. Checked other problem areas and everything was fine far as dampness and grounds.
Hopefully the air bridge clamp was the issue, but you need to actually put some miles on the car and after a few cold start cycles you can call it good if no more codes turn up.
So after a few more short trips all was fine, I then took it to work a 50 mile commute each way. Everything in the morning was good, on the way home I passed a few cars, came home parked it then took it out a short time later, on that cold start check engine light was on again, this time reading the following:
P0175 Fuel trim system, rich bank 2
P1431 Fuel level sensor 2 circuit performance.
Any thoughts or ideas? I'm considering just taking the car and having it tuned next week.
The 1431 code is a stuck/failed right side fuel tank sender. A "tune" is not going to fix it. I just replaced both senders to fix the usual gas gage problems--had to partially drop both tanks to fit the things in.
I was more thinking that the tune would cure the running rich problem, I wouldn't think that the fuel sender problem would be causing this. Since you have experience with the senders about how much did it run your for both and how much trouble was it to do? Appreciate any information you could provide me with.
I was more thinking that the tune would cure the running rich problem, I wouldn't think that the fuel sender problem would be causing this. Since you have experience with the senders about how much did it run your for both and how much trouble was it to do? Appreciate any information you could provide me with.
It was a real PITA! I swapped out both senders, the fuel filter, sock/strainer while I was at it. I got the parts on line and my Vette shop did the work--took three attempts and one visit to the dealer to get it right. Turns out it is very easy to install the sender(s) such that they hang up on something. I also learned that there are at least three configurations of senders (short arm, long arm and post FFS) make sure you know EXACTLY which ones you have befor buying parts. Total cost about $1K for parts an labor. Gage works perfectly now.
I was afraid of that, I used to work on cars for a living and I'm currently debating tackling this job myself, also considering just letting it go and just topping the tank off each time I drive it. However I am concerned that possibly this could be a larger issue and leave me stranded at some point? Any idea if this problem can result in the sending unit just no longer working and cutting my fuel off?
I was afraid of that, I used to work on cars for a living and I'm currently debating tackling this job myself, also considering just letting it go and just topping the tank off each time I drive it. However I am concerned that possibly this could be a larger issue and leave me stranded at some point? Any idea if this problem can result in the sending unit just no longer working and cutting my fuel off?
You can search the forum for the 60-90+ threads on fuel gage problems. It seems that most guys just keep using Techron or Seafoam and accept less than perfect gage performance. Probably works for many years on a weekend only car. Mine is a DD and I am the original owner and have 82K miles. The last gage failure was complete--lit the CEL and drove the gage to 0 so I had to suck it up and get it fixed. As far as I know, you won't run out of gas with just a gage/sender problem, just filler' up and use the trip meter.
Yeah been reading through those, but knowing that it should just be a gauge problem I think I'll hold off on dropping the tanks, maybe I can make that a winter project. Thanks for the help.