ATI SuperDamper Hell - In deep poo
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 11
ATI SuperDamper Hell - In deep poo
Doing a cam on a C5Z. Everything going great up until ATI SuperDamper removal time. I need to remove the three center screws to attach the ATI Puller. Sheared two cheaper TP40 bits...pounded the snot out of the bolts with a punch to try and break the locktite or whatever ATI put in there.
Found a SnapOn truck and bought the stupid expensive special TP40 bit...apparently it is stronger than the torx-plus heads as it ripped the insides of the bolts out. I was standing in front of the damper keeping the bit square and pressed into the head.
Any ideas on how to get out of this hole? I always can cut the damper off, but that is a last resort.
Found a SnapOn truck and bought the stupid expensive special TP40 bit...apparently it is stronger than the torx-plus heads as it ripped the insides of the bolts out. I was standing in front of the damper keeping the bit square and pressed into the head.
Any ideas on how to get out of this hole? I always can cut the damper off, but that is a last resort.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
I don't recall the ATI installation instructions calling for Loctite and those bolts are not installed by ATI but by the installer. They do have a rebuild service at ATI for the damper. You may need to pull it from the outside of the damper assembly if you can't extract the required three bolts to attach the correct puller but that would be a last resort and likely require the unit to be rebuilt to ensure it performs correctly.
ATI has a tech support line, I would call them and get their input prior to going too far with this.
Did you do the original installation? If not, I would contact whoever did and find out what they used. Installation per the instructions shouldn't result in this issue.
ATI has a tech support line, I would call them and get their input prior to going too far with this.
Did you do the original installation? If not, I would contact whoever did and find out what they used. Installation per the instructions shouldn't result in this issue.
Last edited by vettenuts; Apr 11, 2012 at 05:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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I did the installation and don't recall attaching the pulleys to the damper itself...but that was two years ago and I've been hit in the head a lot. I did get one screw out and it has white stuff on the portion of the threads that go into the steel piece that slides onto the crank. Could be corrosion, but that is a tough sell as the car is a track toy and sees little rain.
Thanks for the reminder on the help line, I'll go that route...hopefully I am not the first one on the planet to have this problem.
If that does not work out, then the drill and other implements of destruction come out.
Thanks for the reminder on the help line, I'll go that route...hopefully I am not the first one on the planet to have this problem.
If that does not work out, then the drill and other implements of destruction come out.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
I was thinking some heat too if at all possible -
"BUT" even though the Vette does not see rain, it still can be that nasty corrosion and more than likely is - moisture can get just about anywhere -
Keep us posted, this certainly will help others out so "IF" possible snap some photo's along the way on how you end up resolving the problem -
Drilling it out does look like it will have to happen, so take your time and be careful and if you can make a jig to keep things straight and steady that would help too!
Thanks,Matt
"BUT" even though the Vette does not see rain, it still can be that nasty corrosion and more than likely is - moisture can get just about anywhere -
Keep us posted, this certainly will help others out so "IF" possible snap some photo's along the way on how you end up resolving the problem -
Drilling it out does look like it will have to happen, so take your time and be careful and if you can make a jig to keep things straight and steady that would help too!
Thanks,Matt
Last edited by madmatt9471; Apr 11, 2012 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Word "JIG"
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Since the damper solid body itself seats on the hub, you may be able to use one of the tools that when struck rotates (can't recall what its called, tough getting old 
) wihtout damaging the damper itself. That may help unseat the remaining bolts. This tool sis ued where I work when there are corrosion issues.
) wihtout damaging the damper itself. That may help unseat the remaining bolts. This tool sis ued where I work when there are corrosion issues.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Since the damper solid body itself seats on the hub, you may be able to use one of the tools that when struck rotates (can't recall what its called, tough getting old ) wihtout damaging the damper itself. That may help unseat the remaining bolts. This tool sis ued where I work when there are corrosion issues.
) wihtout damaging the damper itself. That may help unseat the remaining bolts. This tool sis ued where I work when there are corrosion issues.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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Apparently the tech at ATI I spoke with is not real familiar with this issue...or I am in fact the first person on the planet with this problem 
, which I doubt. I was able to get this exploded view of the damper
It looks like I can drill out the heads of the two remaining long bolts and than apply liquid wrench, vice grips, and heat in copious quantities. Worse case I can get out a three jaw puller on the hub itself and yank it off the nose of the crank. Hope it ends up being as easy as it is on paper.
, which I doubt. I was able to get this exploded view of the damper It looks like I can drill out the heads of the two remaining long bolts and than apply liquid wrench, vice grips, and heat in copious quantities. Worse case I can get out a three jaw puller on the hub itself and yank it off the nose of the crank. Hope it ends up being as easy as it is on paper.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
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I think you're removing the wrong bolts...I just remove the three regular bolts and use a 3-bolt puller to remove the entire damper assembly. The torx-head bolts are much easier to remove using an impact driver w/ the balancer on the workbench supported by a pair of 4"x4" blocks.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
On mine, and possibly on the OP's, there were no hex head bolts as shown in his figure. All of them were countersunk and as I recall either torx or allen.
Maybe the hex head bolts were a later change to avoid this problem that has apparently happened for the first time 
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 653
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On mine, and possibly on the OP's, there were no hex head bolts as shown in his figure. All of them were countersunk and as I recall either torx or allen.
Maybe the hex head bolts were a later change to avoid this problem that has apparently happened for the first time
Maybe the hex head bolts were a later change to avoid this problem that has apparently happened for the first time
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,315
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From: Western NY
I checked in on a similar discussion a couple of weeks ago, on the LS1tech forum. Someone was also trying to remove an ATI balancer that apperaed to be on an engine that came from a salvage yard, and the ATI balancer looked pretty beat, judging by the pictures that the OP there posted.
The pictures there, showed the ATI balancer with ALL torx headed bolts, however, the 3 that need to be taken out, so the puller can be used, looked like the bolt heads were a little larger in OD.
The pictures there, showed the ATI balancer with ALL torx headed bolts, however, the 3 that need to be taken out, so the puller can be used, looked like the bolt heads were a little larger in OD.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
I have some photo's of mine as well as my last removal, if I remember I will try to post tonight when I get home. I do remember there was some rust on the fasteners and my car leads a pretty sheltered life so the OP's issue may be one of corroded fasteners. Some PB-Blaster may be in order with enough time to penetrate.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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All drilled out...no damage other than to the screws. There are no hex heads on the damper for the C5; they would not clear the steering rack. I looked at the instructions and ATI does suggest the use of blue locktite...keep good drill bits handy and a spare set of screws.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,226
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From: Morton illinois
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
I just did one last week. Mine is held on by 6 hex screws and only tq'd to 16ftlbs. The larger.3 was for the AC pulley. Should be really easy to break 16 loose. Maybe they were over tightened
