Loose ballancer bolt
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 37
From: Everett WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Loose ballancer bolt
I have read a few post about this. My bolt came loose and the ballancer worked its way forward. This was found at my mechanics shop. as you can see in the pictures the belt is off by 2 groves and it just started to begin to leak oil. I am thinking I can get a new bolt and then tighten the ballancer back on and torque using the old bolt then remove the old and install the new bolt. My mechanic wants to move the power steering rack take the ballancer off and inspect. Is this nessary being it did not come all of the way off and when it was running at the shop there was no "wobbile" it is an LS6 in a Z06 with 72,000 miles. If I have to remove it should I relpace it with an aftermarket one?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,300
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Given that this is a known issue with the car, why mess around. Do it once, and correctly, and be done with it.
(secondly, in order to properly get the current, OE damper back in place, you'll need an installation tool. Just the bolt, won't cut it...)
Last edited by leadfoot4; Apr 23, 2012 at 06:31 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 25
From: Blue Ridge Georgia
I would not reuse the balancer or the bolt. If its a new balancer or your old you have to use a balancer install tool, like the Hawk Balancer tool. You need a new bolt also, you can use stock but I would and did use the ARP bolt. To be able to reinstall the balancer you have to either drop the cradle or pull the steering rack. I pulled the rack. If your going to do all of that you might as well install a small cam, at least it makes it worth the time and effort.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
I would have to agree, i would replace the balancer and bolt, Mine is bad wobbling, but not loose, I like the reviews on the SLP underdrive Balancer.
ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.
ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Siloam Springs AR
Stop posting while you're behind.
Last edited by The Void; Apr 24, 2012 at 12:36 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
I would have to agree, i would replace the balancer and bolt, Mine is bad wobbling, but not loose, I like the reviews on the SLP underdrive Balancer.
ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.
ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I would have to agree, i would replace the balancer and bolt, Mine is bad wobbling, but not loose, I like the reviews on the SLP underdrive Balancer.
ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.
ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.
Remind me to NEVER visit the dealership (STEALERSHIP) that you work at as they are either not properly GM trained, LAZY, STUPID, CROOKS or ALL FOUR!
That’s a TORQUE TO YEILD bolt and a one time use /mando replacement item. That’s just SAD!
OP
I have the POWER BOND Damper (25% under drive) and installed the REUSEABLE ARP Damper Bolt! YES you should remove the damper, inspect the crank snout and install a new damper seal, new damper and new bolt. If you use the new GM Damper Bolt,,, FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL BOLT INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 100% or it will fail again!
Yes you have to remove or reposition the steering rack.
This isn’t a repair that can utilize a work around /shortcut fix!! Do it correctly of do it OVER & OVER & OVER AGAIN and possibly destroy the crank snout, timing chain cover ot rack housing. I’ve see all three failures. They are not cheap!.
BC
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,300
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Ignore it for a while longer, then report back to us on how THAT works out!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,272
Likes: 225
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
I agree with Bill, we are both DoD, "by the book" is the way to go, always nice to see the postive QA reports come back
the SLP UD pulley "I believe" is a Powerbond pulley(made in Australia), used 100x here, dozens myself
Wether using the UD pulley or OEM, PIN THE PULLEY/CRANK
Every single C5/6 that uses a Supercharger will have the crank pulley PINNED, spend the 15 minutes and drill/pin during any crank pulley maintenance
the SLP UD pulley "I believe" is a Powerbond pulley(made in Australia), used 100x here, dozens myself
Wether using the UD pulley or OEM, PIN THE PULLEY/CRANK
Every single C5/6 that uses a Supercharger will have the crank pulley PINNED, spend the 15 minutes and drill/pin during any crank pulley maintenance
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,439
Likes: 405
From: Portland OR
Sure we're experts.
We have re-tightened this gentleman's balancer bolt 19 times already!
Factory service manual? We don't need no steenking factory service manual!
I like the ATI pinning method with a keyed aftermarket balancer.
Ron
We have re-tightened this gentleman's balancer bolt 19 times already!
Factory service manual? We don't need no steenking factory service manual!
I like the ATI pinning method with a keyed aftermarket balancer.
Ron
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 37
From: Everett WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Update
I had the shop remove and inspect the ballancer and re-install it with a new bolt. They removed the steering rack and sway bar completly. The bill was $550 including replacing the belts.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,932
Likes: 8
From: Hayward California
I agree with Bill, we are both DoD, "by the book" is the way to go, always nice to see the postive QA reports come back
the SLP UD pulley "I believe" is a Powerbond pulley(made in Australia), used 100x here, dozens myself
Wether using the UD pulley or OEM, PIN THE PULLEY/CRANK
Every single C5/6 that uses a Supercharger will have the crank pulley PINNED, spend the 15 minutes and drill/pin during any crank pulley maintenance
the SLP UD pulley "I believe" is a Powerbond pulley(made in Australia), used 100x here, dozens myself
Wether using the UD pulley or OEM, PIN THE PULLEY/CRANK
Every single C5/6 that uses a Supercharger will have the crank pulley PINNED, spend the 15 minutes and drill/pin during any crank pulley maintenance
I do this even it's NA.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
It's the same guy that says his balancer is "wobbling but not loose". What a tool!! It's wobbling because the bond between the elastometric band, and the inner and outer rings of the dampener, is getting ready to let go.
Ignore it for a while longer, then report back to us on how THAT works out!!
Ignore it for a while longer, then report back to us on how THAT works out!!
Last edited by Schubs; May 2, 2012 at 09:03 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Hey guy i never said I Dont replace them Personally like i said better safe than sorry, It is a Cadillac Dealership But we do have the CTS-V. I know that is not the correct method I was just saying they have never had an issue.
And your right I think a lot of **** that goes on at dealerships are bull ****, And for the guy that asked my dealership charges $165 an hour, they are crooks. Everyone there tries to find the fastest way to do a job cause it pays book hour.
I peosonally do everything to the book, like most guys dont torque anything, i do. I believe if some one is going to pay our outragious $165 an hour they deserve a quality job.
This is not just my dealer, it goes on everywhere.
Just like a 60k service back in the day was a good deal, not you pay like $700 for an oil change, tire rotation(of course not on staggered sizes), air filter, fuel filter(if the car even has an external one, more and more cars do not now a days), wiper blades, and a tank additive.
And your right I think a lot of **** that goes on at dealerships are bull ****, And for the guy that asked my dealership charges $165 an hour, they are crooks. Everyone there tries to find the fastest way to do a job cause it pays book hour.
I peosonally do everything to the book, like most guys dont torque anything, i do. I believe if some one is going to pay our outragious $165 an hour they deserve a quality job.
This is not just my dealer, it goes on everywhere.
Just like a 60k service back in the day was a good deal, not you pay like $700 for an oil change, tire rotation(of course not on staggered sizes), air filter, fuel filter(if the car even has an external one, more and more cars do not now a days), wiper blades, and a tank additive.
Last edited by Schubs; May 2, 2012 at 09:05 AM.