Johnz02Z06

I have read a few post about this. My bolt came loose and the ballancer worked its way forward. This was found at my mechanics shop. as you can see in the pictures the belt is off by 2 groves and it just started to begin to leak oil. I am thinking I can get a new bolt and then tighten the ballancer back on and torque using the old bolt then remove the old and install the new bolt. My mechanic wants to move the power steering rack take the ballancer off and inspect. Is this nessary being it did not come all of the way off and when it was running at the shop there was no "wobbile" it is an LS6 in a Z06 with 72,000 miles. If I have to remove it should I relpace it with an aftermarket one?

FKING1

For what it's worth, the same thing happened tomy 2000 LS1 several years ago.
Took it to a dealer who would not reuse the balancer and replaced it with a new one.

TOPCATHR

Replace it........it can cause a buch of damage better safe than sorry......

leadfoot4

Given that this is a known issue with the car, why mess around. Do it once, and correctly, and be done with it.



(secondly, in order to properly get the current, OE damper back in place, you'll need an installation tool. Just the bolt, won't cut it...)

Johnz02Z06

Ok so I will replace it. What are thoughts on a 25% under drive?

Paul 75 L82

I would not reuse the balancer or the bolt. If its a new balancer or your old you have to use a balancer install tool, like the Hawk Balancer tool. You need a new bolt also, you can use stock but I would and did use the ARP bolt. To be able to reinstall the balancer you have to either drop the cradle or pull the steering rack. I pulled the rack. If your going to do all of that you might as well install a small cam, at least it makes it worth the time and effort.

Schubs

I would have to agree, i would replace the balancer and bolt, Mine is bad wobbling, but not loose, I like the reviews on the SLP underdrive Balancer.

ON the other hand, GM says you have to replace the crank bolt every time it is reused, I work at a GM dealer, and noone replaces the crank bolt, and have never had a problem. But like the others said better safe then sorry.

Schubs

Oh if you are going to replace the balancer and it is leaking oil, you might as well replace the seal for the crank shaft, it would be a shame if after replacing the balancer and the seal leaked

The Void

Did you really just post that? Your service department probably charges people over 80 dollars/hour and then you jip people again by not replacing a 13 dollar torque to yeild bolt? I hope you go ahead and charge them as if you did. Where is the professionalism?

Stop posting while you're behind.

dougbfresh

I thought the stockers were torque to yield bolts. What dealer do you work at so I know NEVER to go there.

Quicksilver Vert 01

Are you referring to Corvette or some other GM model?

Bill Curlee

Remind me to NEVER visit the dealership (STEALERSHIP) that you work at as they are either not properly GM trained, LAZY, STUPID, CROOKS or ALL FOUR!

That’s a TORQUE TO YEILD bolt and a one time use /mando replacement item. That’s just SAD!

OP

I have the POWER BOND Damper (25% under drive) and installed the REUSEABLE ARP Damper Bolt! YES you should remove the damper, inspect the crank snout and install a new damper seal, new damper and new bolt. If you use the new GM Damper Bolt,,, FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL BOLT INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 100% or it will fail again!

Yes you have to remove or reposition the steering rack.

This isn’t a repair that can utilize a work around /shortcut fix!! Do it correctly of do it OVER & OVER & OVER AGAIN and possibly destroy the crank snout, timing chain cover ot rack housing. I’ve see all three failures. They are not cheap!.

BC

leadfoot4

It's the same guy that says his balancer is "wobbling but not loose". What a tool!! It's wobbling because the bond between the elastometric band, and the inner and outer rings of the dampener, is getting ready to let go.

Ignore it for a while longer, then report back to us on how THAT works out!!

Paul 75 L82

Of all of the bolts in your car this bolt is the most important. I had the Ridgid Strap wrench on the balancer and a 4 ft torque wrench and sometime I still worry.

SteveDoten

I agree with Bill, we are both DoD, "by the book" is the way to go, always nice to see the postive QA reports come back

the SLP UD pulley "I believe" is a Powerbond pulley(made in Australia), used 100x here, dozens myself

Wether using the UD pulley or OEM, PIN THE PULLEY/CRANK

Every single C5/6 that uses a Supercharger will have the crank pulley PINNED, spend the 15 minutes and drill/pin during any crank pulley maintenance

RonSSNova

Sure we're experts.

We have re-tightened this gentleman's balancer bolt 19 times already!

Factory service manual? We don't need no steenking factory service manual!

I like the ATI pinning method with a keyed aftermarket balancer.

Ron

Johnz02Z06

I had the shop remove and inspect the ballancer and re-install it with a new bolt. They removed the steering rack and sway bar completly. The bill was $550 including replacing the belts.

AVB

I do this even it's NA.

Schubs

Oh and my balancer has been wobbling since i bought it in 2009 And i am actually not a tool but whatever you want to infer from one comment i made is up to you.

Schubs

Hey guy i never said I Dont replace them Personally like i said better safe than sorry, It is a Cadillac Dealership But we do have the CTS-V. I know that is not the correct method I was just saying they have never had an issue.

And your right I think a lot of **** that goes on at dealerships are bull ****, And for the guy that asked my dealership charges $165 an hour, they are crooks. Everyone there tries to find the fastest way to do a job cause it pays book hour.

I peosonally do everything to the book, like most guys dont torque anything, i do. I believe if some one is going to pay our outragious $165 an hour they deserve a quality job.

This is not just my dealer, it goes on everywhere.

Just like a 60k service back in the day was a good deal, not you pay like $700 for an oil change, tire rotation(of course not on staggered sizes), air filter, fuel filter(if the car even has an external one, more and more cars do not now a days), wiper blades, and a tank additive.