I have another post in this section called. Checking TDR. That may help follow this one. I will start by listing the codes and go from there.


Codes
As of today
PCM - p1626h
Sdm - u1096h
u1064h
Radio - no comm.
Hvac - no comm.
ldcm - u1064h
rdcm - u1064h
scm - u1064h
rfa - u1064h

So this all started with intermittent starts a while back. I drove the car to our new house in Tyler Texas from Houston with no issues. The following Moday I got in it to go to work and I had to turn the key about 20 times to get it to start. It would engage the starter then stop right away. I thought the starter was going out. I came home from work and could not get it to start again so I "tapped" the starter a few times and ended up hitting the small ground wire above the starter and breaking it. When this happened the starter would turn over fine. So I replaced the starter and repaired the ground wire and it started right up. I let it sit in the driveway and run for about 30 min. and took it for a drive. About a block before it just died. The dash lights and all the gauges were working fine and the only codes were H codes listed above. I pushed the car back home and have been heckling everything I can think of. I took the battery to oriely's to have it checked and they said it was bad so I bought an optima red top. I brought it home and hooked it up with the same problem. No help. I checked the ignition switch like Mr. Bill said and there were a couple of pines that would ohm out like it had a short in the run position but all others were 0 Ohm. I cleaned the burnt pins and reinstalled it with no change. I took out the TDR and jumped it. The car would turn over even with the key In the off position and would fire off with the key in the run position but then die like the fuel ran out. I bought a new relay and replaced it with no change. So far I have a new starter new battery and new TDR reley. I am tired of throwing money at it and getting no where. Could this be an ignition issue. I have check the fuse as per the guide to no starts and all the voltages are good. I have removed fuse 25 I think and waited five seconds the replaced it and still nothing. I ohm the key pellet and got the same on the pellet and the pigtail from the switch. I am lost any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is a 1999 coupe with M6 bolt on's and a v2 cam pretty stock. The cam and other parts have been on for about a year and a half.

Thanks
Larry

 

i have a 1999 c5 i bought a set led lights for the rear everytime i hit the brakes i get static on my dadio

 

sorry misspelled radio

 

No sure what that has to do with my issue but If I ever have that problem I will know.

 

Larry;

I know someone with better knowledge will do a better job replying than I can but a few things come to mind. The first things that people do in this situation is to check the voltage at the battery. Even though this is a new battery, it seems Red Tops have some issues with full charges and are very sensitive to small amounts of discharge. I would also make sure that the battery connections are clean and torqued to spec at the battery and the starter. Then I would check the various ground locations and make sure they are clean and tight and also check the connectors to make sure all of the pins are straight and making the proper connection. Then I think I would check the wires going to the door modules through the rubber accordian. These wires make connection with the serial bus and if there is a short to ground all sorts of crazy things will happen.
If it were me, I would PM Mr. Bill Curlee on this forum and see if he can walk you through some diagnostics with a multimeter. He is an amazing resource and has always been willing to help anyone on this forum.
I really feel for you brother because if it were me, I would be lost and frustrated. Read as much as you can on the forum and see if Mr. Curlee can help. I wish I had more technical knowledge for you. Keep at it. Your fellow forum members will be posting soon. Good Luck.

 

Have you checked the little VAT terminals inside the igntion cylinder?

You can try bypassing them with some resistors across the terminal wires and see if the problems go away. Make sure the resistance matches (or is very close) to the resistance of your pellet. Somewhere there is a list of the different values.

 

I have pm mr bill with no response. Maybe he was busy or did not get it but I will try again tomorrow. I will check the grounds again to make sure I didn't miss one. I have checked the voltage on the battery and have checked the starter connections but I know I'm missing something. The ignition switch keeps jumping back up to me. The high ohm readings on some of the connectors may be normal but Mr. Bills post says 0-5 ohms on ALL pins. So maybe it's a bad ignition.

 

Yes the pellet matches the pig tail on the switch.

 

Just to be clear.........are you PMing Mr. Bill or Bill Curlee? Mr. Bill is great member but I believe that Bill Curlee is your man. Just asking as Mr. Bill is in Reno, NV and Bill Curlee is in CT someplace! Good Luck.

 

I do believe it was Bill Curlee. I found one of his post on the ignition switch and pm him from there. I will give him another pm tomorrow to make sure though. Thanks for the clarity though I don't want to confuse anybody.

 

Would the no comm be from the double din radio or from when I removed the hvac controls working on changing the head unit.

 

No it's dry

 

I will check the door boots tomorrow when I get off work.

 

That's good as long as the pellet isn't messed up. See if you can find the list of resistance values and make sure it matches up with one of those. Do you have another key? Have you tried it?

I have an aftermarket radio and get NO COMM for that, but I don't get NO COMM for the HVAC even after removing and replacing the control module.

 

Lothar34 I do have another set of keys on there way to the house. I was living in Alvin until a month ago and left my spare key down at my dads house there. He is putting it in the mail today and I will try the new key when it gets here. I found the list of values but mine meter shows around 240ish. and I didn't see that on the list of resistance.

 

Thanks the list I was looking at didn't show that. So I'm good on that. NEXT

 

I have notice the park lights are not on when I turn the key the run position. All the gauges work all the door locks and windows work. The trunk pop locks on the dash and the fobs. I really and find anything that doesn't work except the front park lights or (running lights)

 

When checking the ignition switch should there be any pins that should look like a short. Peg the meter out. I have two pins that ohm out like they are shorted.

 

Did you already look at this?:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

 

yea on mine if I ohm out pins B and E with the key in the run position it pegs the meter out like a short. This also happens in the run position with B and G, all others are 0 ohm. I did clean the contacts and slightly bend the arms like Bill said in the write up. I have noticed as mentioned above that the park lights in front are not coming on when the key is on. I also can not hear the fuel pump. I am leaning towards ordering a new switch. I am running out of options, and patients. The next step is a shop I guess.......