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lowering bolts didnt really lower. help plz

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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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Default lowering bolts didnt really lower. help plz

I used the WCC lowering bolts. Shop ran them out as supposed to and i git about half inch in front and maybe 1/4 in in rear. How can i get it lower. Cut? Spacers? Not tracking it or anything.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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You need to drive it for a few days, so the control arm bushings "re-acclimate" themselves on their pivot shafts.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
You need to drive it for a few days, so the control arm bushings "re-acclimate" themselves on their pivot shafts.
Ive driven it for 2 weeks (300 miles) and nothing. Its mainly the rear that bothers me. Too much gap
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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I had a similar problem and I've yet to figure it out. I've got my front right side almost bottomed out on WCC bolts, put on the drivers side I have only a couple threads showing to meet the same height. I'm thinking my leaf spring may be to blame.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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The shop likely didn't do it right. That should have lowered it a bunch. If you used the 2" longer rear bolts then you should almost be sitting on the rear bump stops with the tires almost even with the wheel lip on the fender. If you used the front lowering bolts then you should have got about 1.5" up there.

Good luck with the ride when you get it down the way you seem to want. It sucks if your roads are bumpy.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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Remove them bad boys! I used lowering bolts and there was still a bit of gap.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
The shop likely didn't do it right. That should have lowered it a bunch. If you used the 2" longer rear bolts then you should almost be sitting on the rear bump stops with the tires almost even with the wheel lip on the fender. If you used the front lowering bolts then you should have got about 1.5" up there.

Good luck with the ride when you get it down the way you seem to want. It sucks if your roads are bumpy.
We used whatever bolts WCC sells. I would assume there is only one way to.put them in. I have 2 inches of gap on rear. Im taken it back to shop later his week and we are goin to look and see what we can do. I mean they just thread in and bottom them out right? Bolt in just like factory
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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You don't just bottom the nut on the rear bolts. The further you put the nut towards the end of the bolt, the lower the car goes.

On the front, the more bolt above the spring the lower the car goes.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
You don't just bottom the nut on the rear bolts. The further you put the nut towards the end of the bolt, the lower the car goes.

On the front, the more bolt above the spring the lower the car goes.
Awesome thx. When it goes on the lift ill look at it
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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On the front, the more threads showing on top, the lower it goes. On the back, the fewer threads showing on top of the nut, the lower it goes.

Looks like I was late with my response.......

Last edited by Suthunman; Apr 24, 2012 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
You need to drive it for a few days, so the control arm bushings "re-acclimate" themselves on their pivot shafts.
I believe the uppers will do that, at least on the front. Not so sure about the lowers. If the rubber is bonded to the center sleeve, it won't move.

A guy could carefully mark the alignment marks and then loosen the nuts on the lower control arm bolts (with the car sitting on the wheels) to let the center sleeve rotate where it wants. Loosen both at the same time.

Do the same on the rear lowers, just simply loosen the top A arm bolts.

If you think about it, the bushings are tortional rubber springs and need to be in a neutral position at rest.

This is true on Chevelles, Novas etc for certain.

Poly bushings are different. The center sleve is the bearing.

Ron
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