Im looking for some help from my fellow forum members. i recently did a head and cam swap on my ride and now i have an idle issue since the computer tuning. After the car gets warm and i snap the throttle it has a hard time maintaining idle and sometimes stalls. i assume it is due to the a/f ratio being off since the car idling makes my eyes water. I had the computer tuned at TSP and they want me to send it back in to get re-tuned. Im ok with that but they want me to do it on my dime, which i do not agree with at all. I paid for a service to get done and it was not done right. I have limited access to a tech 2 scanner and all im looking for is the ideal parameters in order to get the car idling correct.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Cam TSP 224R
Heads: Cartek 3x
Intake: BBK SSi w/ BBK 80mm TB
LS6 Descreened MAF

If more info is needed let me know i will provide all that i can.

 

you really need to take it to a tuner that can scan the car on the dyno once you get into those type of mods.

 

I really wish texas speed would have said something like that. I asked them specifically if i should.

 

You did a mail order tune?

It's rich all the time and not just after you stab the throttle?

If yes, you will have to address the rich condition before worrying about the idle. You've got to get someone at the car doing some logging and tuning.

 

Your tune sounds like its WAY OUT TO LUNCH!

If you paid for a tune,, its NOT correct and needs to be retuned!

Give us the SPECIFICS of what was promised with the tune and how it was tuned.

I cant comment much without specifics. What have you relayed back to them on your issues??

I have a high 240s intake & exhaust duration / 610 lift at 114+4 and it idles and transitions great I even get a solid 26-27 MPG highway...

BC

Bill

 

Pull your codes also, make sure all of your sensors are connected properly and no wires pinched etc.

Mine did something similiar to this when my MAP sensor harness got pinched / cut. Check your vacuum connections and caps and your PCV lines.

 

EXCELLENT RECOMMENDATION!

BC

 

Thanks Bill!

Just attempting to give back a fraction of the help CF has given me.

 

you have changed your throttle body, and thus, the cross sectional area has been changed which needs to be fixed in your tune.

Things like base running airflow, throttle cracker and throttle follower also need to be examined. Thing is, if the car runs lean, for example, right as you crack the throttle open, you might be very rich at WOT because the computer will dump extra fuel when going to power enrichment mode due to it being lean immediately before.

you also want to tune the VE properly. A descreened LS6 MAF may not be the way to go, as that tends to set lean codes (Halltech makes a laminar airflow straightener that you can use).

 

Thats exactly what I was thinking. You would think that if a PCM was PROFESSIONALY TUNED,,,all that would have been addressed.

I have EFI Live and can compare the stock tune to the current tune and compare the values. Dont know how thats done in HP Tuners.

OP

Do you have any way to Data Log your PCM? I have a scaner (Actron CP-9180) and it has a sort of data log capability. Find some way to look at values like Long Term Fuel Trims, O2 Sensor switching and values, MAP value at idle, and see what there doing.


BC

 

Thank you all for the great info. I had my buddy come over last night and give me a hand with checking out data with his tech 2 scanner. everything was hanging rich for a while especially at idle after the throttle snap. Car kept dying out. we let the car idle for a while while looking at the values nothing seemed to change. I was told by texas speed that i needed to drive the car more for it to learn. I did that previously logging in approx. 18 miles. It was a tough 18 just b/c the car kept stalling, not exactly safe when your cruising at 50 and lose steering. I asked them also about doing a cam relearn in the computer to sync them together he said thats not necessary. Come to find out as a last ditch effort we decided to sync them and everything seemed to mellow out. O2's ~ 200-800, Lt fuel trim which was at +23 before came down to +13 - +16. Short term bounces between -3 to +4 so im sure the LT will continue to go down now as well. No more eyes burning. Hopefully it sticks, i just have to wait till it dry out to drive it again. After the relearn on throttle snap it drops to maybe 500rpm and picks right up no hesitation to 800+ rpm.

 

Where should my MAP sensor vaules be at idle and also MAF. If i remember correctly i think map was 46 and i know MAF was between 7.00 and 10.00, depending on the lope of the cam.

 

you really need to have it properly tuned and not a mail order tune.

that is if you want it to perform to it's best.

 

Hmmm...

I am wondering if the throttle body is causing all of your issues. Can you bolt a stock TB up to that intake at all?

 

I no longer have the stock TB