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Bought Optima battery and when tightening the pole screw with my wrench I got a short circuit. Now check engine led is lit all the time. Main fuses are all ok.
What to do???
Bought Optima battery and when tightening the pole screw with my wrench I got a short circuit. Now check engine led is lit all the time. Main fuses are all ok.
What to do???
Use this link and reset the codes. You probably didn't do any damage. If the light comes back on you will have to investigate further.
What happened was that gradually the idle went very bad. I was suspecting a bad fuel at some time but it was not that. Today idle has gone. It won't start.
I have checked vacuum side for leaks, generator for fails and groundings but no help.
Has anyone experience that faulty battery would cause a lost of communication U1096, 1064 and 1016 codes?
What happened was that gradually the idle went very bad. I was suspecting a bad fuel at some time but it was not that. Today idle has gone. It won't start.
I have checked vacuum side for leaks, generator for fails and groundings but no help.
Has anyone experience that faulty battery would cause a lost of communication U1096, 1064 and 1016 codes?
Pull and post all the codes. Does the car crank but not start as in the motor turns over normally but doesn't start?
Yes, motor turns over but won't start. Only if I give WOT then it tries to start but won't run.
P0101 H and P0108H are on display as well. I checked intake for leakages but it seems to be ok. Hoses seem to be ok as well.
That is rather strange. Do you know what it shorted against? If it was just ground, then all that would cause is a sudden downward voltage spike typically. I know it's a coulda, shoulda, would've, but there's a reason why the procedure is to attach the negative last when hooking up a battery or jump starting. When you think about it, if your negative was not hooked up and the ground was lifted when the short occurred, nothing would have happened in the way of a short anyway. Stay persistently on it and you will figure it out in a short while.
I would check out the MAF and make sure it looks OK. If you use a K&N filter you should know that you have to be careful to not over oil the filter. That oil can really screw up the MAF. Check for a massive vacuum leak like the booster line or something. It has to be a massive leak if the MAF and the MAP go off at the same time, plus the symptoms you said. Is it possible that someone closed the hood when there were still tools or anything still under the hood? Maybe you have cracked runners. You will find it.
I had a new try which gave new codes:
10PCM: P1120, P1220, P1516
28TCS: C1255
I can have motor running by pumping the pedal from zero to WOT. RPM jumps between 2000-4000 but if I lift my foot from the pedal it dies immediately.
Car is tuned and ít does not have MAP sensor. Motor should be running on open loop all the time.
Is there a possibility that tuning program resets with short circuit or empty battery?
I had a new try which gave new codes:
10PCM: P1120, P1220, P1516
28TCS: C1255
I can have motor running by pumping the pedal from zero to WOT. RPM jumps between 2000-4000 but if I lift my foot from the pedal it dies immediately.
Car is tuned and ít does not have MAP sensor. Motor should be running on open loop all the time.
Is there a possibility that tuning program resets with short circuit or empty battery?
Those are TPS codes. Take a close look at the throttle body and wires and connector. Pull the connector and clean it. Operate it with the motor not running, key on (should be easy to do right) and see if it operates smoothly and doesn't bind. Your tuning should not be affected.
I cleaned all connectors and tried to start the engine without MAF sensor and it did start! Thought very bad idle and with 2100 rpm idle.
With MAF connedted it cranks but don't run.
I cleaned all connectors and tried to start the engine without MAF sensor and it did start! Thought very bad idle and with 2100 rpm idle.
With MAF connedted it cranks but don't run.
With the mods you have it might be best to take it to a shop and get some eyes on it. Maybe the person who did the mods is close by?
Try the IDLE RE-LEARN procedure and see if that helps:
" C5 Idle Relearn Procedure "
Purpose
This page basically shows you step by step how to do an Idle Relearn. You would want to do this if you have done any intake modifications. If you do not do this, you may have hesitation or other issues.
Tools Required
None.
Do the Job
Follow these procedures EXACTLY or you will have to start from scratch.
1. Insert key into ignition and turn to the "On" position but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
2. Pop open the engine fuse block box cover and remove the two 10amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
3. Your DIC will now display "check" messages for ABS, etc...
4. Turn ignition to the "Off" position.
5. Re-insert both 10amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
6. Start your engine
7. Allow engine coolant temperature to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F and run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
8. Shut down engine
9. Let rest for a minimum of 30 seconds.
10. Restart engine - check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
11. Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and air temperature at the intake.
Idle does not exist when MAF sensor is connected. When disconnected the MAF sensor then idle is 2100rpm. I suspect that MAF sensor is faulty.
MAF sensor yellow wire gives 5V, ignition cable gives 12 V so it should be ok. Ground wire ok. However when measuring resistance between pins I get dead connection, ohms show 1 which is no connection (right?).
Is there any simple method to test the MAF sensor?
I checked TAC connetion and when ignition is on and measuring TAC connector only one pin is giving 12V, not any indicates 5V ref voltage. Can this be correct?
Last edited by Janfun; Jul 14, 2012 at 11:26 AM.
Reason: additional information available
MAF sensor was tested and destroyed while testing. It was ok but accidentaly I fed too much voltage to reference círcuit so I think I burned it
Well at least I learned something here...
Next step was to analyze TPS (throtle body sensor).
That was interesting experience. No reference voltage to pin 2 nor to the pin 9 @ 16 pin TAC module. I suspected short on wires but ohm meter solved problem: no short there.
I took TPS on table and so far I couldn't have any signal through it.
Feed Ign is 12V OK but 0-5V and reverse are dead.
Is there a way to repair the TPS sensor (actually potentiometer)???
Finally I got new MAF and TPS sensors. I was optimistic for a while but when starting the engine the same symptoms remain. Engine won't idle. If I give it WOT then rpm jumps to 3000-4000. If I lift my foot from pedal engine dies immediately.
Again I disconnected MAF and then engine runs with "Reduced Engine Power" mode and "Check Traction System" messages on DIC screen. When running with this limb mode it is like not all cylinders are working. Engine sounds horrible.
Throttle is working, MAF is brand new and TPS is brand new. If TAC is gone then engine shouldn't operate in limb mode, right?
This time no codes came up. Could this be mechanical problem or are there any other sensors I should check/change???