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Hello all,
I've been reading this forum for some time now, and finally thought it was time to post a question. Im the proud new owner of a 2002 Z06. My problem is that it seems to have a bit of a peg-leg...when I get on it with the t/c off, one wheel lights up and the other just watches. what would be wrong in the rear end to cause this, and how much work is it to repair? I have a full set of tools and am not too scared to dive in...just need a little advice.
Of course one wheel will spin. I don't believe that the C5 has a positraction rear. So when you take off traction control, it's like watching a car get stuck in mud or snow, one wheel will break and spin and the other will not move=why you are stuck. With positraction or traction control, the car will sense that one wheel is spinning out of control and attempt to transfer power to the one that is not moving and do this constantly back and forth to each wheel to HELP the car regain TRACTION.
Vettes are cheap enough so that everyone can own one, but not everyone who owns one can drive one.
The C5 diff is a standard clutch/plate type posi. It uses a belleville spring on each clutch pack for preload.
It is not uncommon for these springs to break. After that the clutches wear out.
Here is an excellent how to article on how to change these to a much beefier setup from the C6.
OP - it may be time to change your differential fluid. Check your owner's manual.
I changed the rear end oil as soon as I took possession of the car. I used Redline 75w90 with the lsd additive already added. I don't know if the car had this problem before I changed the oil, but I figured it was a good idea to change all the fluids just to be on the safe side.
The C5 diff is a standard clutch/plate type posi. It uses a belleville spring on each clutch pack for preload.
It is not uncommon for these springs to break. After that the clutches wear out.
Here is an excellent how to article on how to change these to a much beefier setup from the C6.
It isn't trivial as you have to remove the differential. But other than quite time consuming, it isn't hard either. In fact it's fun.
I just finished it up myself and not having a Zo6, I put in heavier output shafts as well.
Have fun!
Ron
Now we're talking. I knew there was a mechanical issue here. So those clutches keep both wheels spinning together? The springs shown look more like washers than springs. How do they work? I have no problem removing the differential and changing these springs/clutches. My bid fear is having everything apart only to find I need some special, unobtainable tool to put it back together. Thanks for the link, Ron.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
About 80% of the stock diff I take apart/upgrade have the clutch springs broken. These are the only parts that apply pressure to the clutch packs. If you are spinning one tire, the clutch spring is definitely broken like the pic below.
About 80% of the stock diff I take apart/upgrade have the clutch springs broken. These are the only parts that apply pressure to the clutch packs. If you are spinning one tire, the clutch spring is definitely broken like the pic below.
Ok, I will replace the springs. The thread above states you need a special tool and a press to get one side apart. The press I can get, but the special tool I'm not so sure I can find. Can I change the springs without it? What are the best springs I can get, so I don't have to do this again anytime soon? Thanks for the replies guys.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by Mike Robertson
Ok, I will replace the springs. The thread above states you need a special tool and a press to get one side apart. The press I can get, but the special tool I'm not so sure I can find. Can I change the springs without it? What are the best springs I can get, so I don't have to do this again anytime soon? Thanks for the replies guys.
Mike.
You can make one if you have a die grinder and some time (use a BIG socket and cut 2 arches). Kent Moore tool is J-42162. I use C6 Z06 springs (will fit C5 diff). GM part # 19132817. You will need 2.
I didn't need any sort of tool. You need something to support the carrier on that lets the output shaft be free but doesn't rest on the bearing cage. A piece of pipe works fine.
I just used a hyd press (Arbor press wolud be fine but not hands free) and a round 1/2" rod to push on the gear face. Piece of pie! It really doesn't take much force.
I don't think it took 10 seconds.
I used the HD parts from DTE. In fact I used their left and right shafts as well.