Hi everyone I have a 2001 6 speed that has some how managed to get the "Reduced engine Power" issue. The problem is that the car never actually goes into reduced engine power.

When that happens I also get "service traction control system" and the dash lights up like a christmas tree, the gauges dont work (except for the tac and the speedo) and neither side door switch will work. The idle also gets bumped up when at a stop, then after a few seconds will level itself out.

The problem is the failure is intermittent. It might fail 3 seconds after you start the car, or it might fail after being driven for 5 miles or whatever. I took the car to the dealer and they said it has a "bus to ground" failure.

Anyone have any ideas on this one? I read the associated threads, but nothing quite compares to what i seem to be experiencing especially with the car not actually going into reduced engine power mode.

 

Might be a short where the wires go from the body in to the door. Take a look in the rubber accordion between the body and the door.

 

Use this post to help solve your issues::::

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1580763027

 

^ This is your answer.

 

Thank you so much Bill and GotZ06 for the help. Before I start following Bill's instructions and checking the door wires and connectors, I wanted to give the codes that are coming up.
Also I had a FAST intake put on with a LS2TB...could that be causing anything?

codes:
U1301
U1255
U1160
U1096
U1016
U1064
U1040
U1176
U1088

 

Try this link for a list of the codes if you don't have a list. I would not think the intake would cause your problems. http://ls1tech.com/forums/corvette-p...they-mean.html

 

Thanks for the list and the advice!!!

 

No problem! Good luck

 

amazing.....how a simple connector in the door can cause that many problems....thanks all its nice to have my car back...

 

Was you connector damaged? My car just went nuts on me THANKFULLY as I was pulling onto my street. I had to disconnect my battery and reconnect it at the end of my driveway to run long enough to get into my garage. I'm going to go pull the doors apart now!

 

So I pulled all my door connectors apart, some of the pins looked funky on the passenger side so I took the connector apart and used a dental pick to bend them back in shape. Tried the key, and the same thing happened. All kinds of error codes. I then pulled all 3 connectors off the BCM, and tried the key. Same results. Only this time I noticed the fuel pump did not come on. I have a fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted on my fuel rail, so I checked it. 0 PSI. "WTF!" I thought. So I decided I should check the fuses. For some reason the I forgot and left the key in the ignition in the "ON" position. As I was turning the screw that holds the plastic cover on my fuse panel the car went nuts, and the fuel pump started going. "OMGWTFBBQ!" I thought. I shook the fuse panel a few times, and the car went nuts again. So I pulled the plastic cover off, thinking I was going to pull the fuse block and found that a mouse or something had decided to snack on my wiring harness. As I was looking at it, I noticed the power cables coming to the fuse block were loose. So I grabbed a 13mm socket, tightened that nut, and problem solved! I ran through the DIC and cleared all the codes, and went for a spin. Runs like a champ, but it surges a bit more at idle. I have a stroked engine with aftermarket heads and a healthy cam, I'm guessing the PCM is having some fun relearning the idle.

One thing I noticed this past week leading up to this drama is that my gas pedal would feel funny at times. Like I would hit the gas and it wouldn't respond. It did that same thing real bad right before this mess tonight. It seems to be fine now, is it safe to assume that was directly related to my power issue?

 

Good work!

Bill