Time for cam

I have an 04 with mild mods, borla straight, headers, x pipe, blackwing intake. I want to do a mild cam for a daily driver. Is there a cam I can swap to without changing springs and other stock components? I just want to change the cam with out breaking the bank.
The problem is, the increase in performance will not be worth the effort. AND you may still need a tune. Most tuners charge more than the price of the cam for a dyno tune. (Cam is considered and internal modification so its another price level)
Stock springs are not to good to go beyond the stock cam specs.
The problem is, the increase in performance will not be worth the effort. AND you may still need a tune. Most tuners charge more than the price of the cam for a dyno tune. (Cam is considered and internal modification so its another price level)
Stock springs are not to good to go beyond the stock cam specs.

The problem is, the increase in performance will not be worth the effort. AND you may still need a tune. Most tuners charge more than the price of the cam for a dyno tune. (Cam is considered and internal modification so its another price level)
Stock springs are not to good to go beyond the stock cam specs.
Don't do a cam unless you are ready to add springs and rockers to go with it. Depending on milage oil pump and timing chain. A good tune will really wake the car up. JMHO
For a daily driver type aplication---depends on if you need to pass smog or not--I am assuming NO since you already have LT headers--
If your car was never tuned for your LT's you most likely are leaving tons of HP on the table !! Sometimes with LT's the power will actually go DOWN without a tune !!
You can't get the full benefit of your LT's without getting it tuned !!!!
Old sch thought is do do all your research and homework--Pick out a cam and then go ONE size bigger !!
A good D/D type cam would be something around .228/.228 @.050 --lift from .525-.575
and an LSA no lower than a 114--ESPECIALLY if your car is an automatic
Any larger cam will require the engine to idle much higher-stock is around 600 and a 220ish cam will need to idle about 800-850 --The problem is that at a stop light idling at 850 you won't be able to hold the car still-It will want to creep and will require a lot more brake effort--That's why most will get a mild stall converter to eliminate this issue
If your car is a 6 speed--you can get way with a longer duration cam say about .233 @
.050 and will have no brake hold issues- Also can use a lower LSA --A 112 is a great choice---( stock is about 117-119 ) Lower LSA's make the idle lopier
A mild cam swap .220 is worth an honest 35 RWHP -- LT's with a cam should make anywhere from 20-30 RWHP (over stock) after tuning
A 230 ish cam about 40-45 RWHP
High .230's --.240 50 -60 RWHP asuuming you've made all the appropriate mods to insure adequate fuel flow etc.--
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
For a daily driver type aplication---depends on if you need to pass smog or not--I am assuming NO since you already have LT headers--
If your car was never tuned for your LT's you most likely are leaving tons of HP on the table !! Sometimes with LT's the power will actually go DOWN without a tune !!
You can't get the full benefit of your LT's without getting it tuned !!!!
Old sch thought is do do all your research and homework--Pick out a cam and then go ONE size bigger !!
A good D/D type cam would be something around .228/.228 @.050 --lift from .525-.575
and an LSA no lower than a 114--ESPECIALLY if your car is an automatic
Any larger cam will require the engine to idle much higher-stock is around 600 and a 220ish cam will need to idle about 800-850 --The problem is that at a stop light idling at 850 you won't be able to hold the car still-It will want to creep and will require a lot more brake effort--That's why most will get a mild stall converter to eliminate this issue
If your car is a 6 speed--you can get way with a longer duration cam say about .233 @
.050 and will have no brake hold issues- Also can use a lower LSA --A 112 is a great choice---( stock is about 117-119 ) Lower LSA's make the idle lopier
A mild cam swap .220 is worth an honest 35 RWHP -- LT's with a cam should make anywhere from 20-30 RWHP (over stock) after tuning
A 230 ish cam about 40-45 RWHP
High .230's --.240 50 -60 RWHP asuuming you've made all the appropriate mods to insure adequate fuel flow etc.--

For a daily driver type aplication---depends on if you need to pass smog or not--I am assuming NO since you already have LT headers--
If your car was never tuned for your LT's you most likely are leaving tons of HP on the table !! Sometimes with LT's the power will actually go DOWN without a tune !!
You can't get the full benefit of your LT's without getting it tuned !!!!
Old sch thought is do do all your research and homework--Pick out a cam and then go ONE size bigger !!
A good D/D type cam would be something around .228/.228 @.050 --lift from .525-.575
and an LSA no lower than a 114--ESPECIALLY if your car is an automatic
Any larger cam will require the engine to idle much higher-stock is around 600 and a 220ish cam will need to idle about 800-850 --The problem is that at a stop light idling at 850 you won't be able to hold the car still-It will want to creep and will require a lot more brake effort--That's why most will get a mild stall converter to eliminate this issue
If your car is a 6 speed--you can get way with a longer duration cam say about .233 @
.050 and will have no brake hold issues- Also can use a lower LSA --A 112 is a great choice---( stock is about 117-119 ) Lower LSA's make the idle lopier
A mild cam swap .220 is worth an honest 35 RWHP -- LT's with a cam should make anywhere from 20-30 RWHP (over stock) after tuning
A 230 ish cam about 40-45 RWHP
High .230's --.240 50 -60 RWHP asuuming you've made all the appropriate mods to insure adequate fuel flow etc.--
I have not got the car tuned yet because I was waiting to do a cam swap and didnt anticipate much time between the headers and cam.

thanks for everyones input it was helpful in my conversation with the vendor.
Conversation with Matt Craft at Texas Speed.
Any opinion on the COMP Cams LS Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade? I will be installing a TSP 228R cam with the PAC LS6 stage 1 heads and the PAC 1218 springs.
I am a fan of that kit! We run that kit on the stock GM rockers on our racecar that went 9.66@130mph, and have been very happy with the product and its results. It will work very well with your combo!

Conversation with Matt Craft at Texas Speed.
Any opinion on the COMP Cams LS Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade? I will be installing a TSP 228R cam with the PAC LS6 stage 1 heads and the PAC 1218 springs.
I am a fan of that kit! We run that kit on the stock GM rockers on our racecar that went 9.66@130mph, and have been very happy with the product and its results. It will work very well with your combo!


















