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I have a 97 C5. Im running an x-pipe with Borla. The install im going to do myself, so choosing a good header that dosn't call for heavy tools is what Im looking for. I've heard of guys lifting the engine, pulling the starters, then having to take it to the exhaust shop when their done. Is this really the only way to install long tube headers? Just looking for good performing header that dosn't have to be installed at a shop. Thanks for Help.
I'm planning to get tts long tubes--I've heard the install isn't that difficult (if you know what you're doing). I haven't done it yet because I'm concerned it'll be too loud (I have stingers). if/when you get yours set up, make sure you post on the sound level afterwards! best of luck to you!
*mine's a 97 too, by the way.
I recently installed the FLP's with the help of Wt99C5, (thanks Al!) and the whole system is a bolt-on assembly that gives you the flexibility of switching from hi-flow cats to OR pipes when the mood strikes. We did it in my garage. The change is evident. :yesnod:
No welding is required but you will need to dump your existing x-pipe as the one that comes with the system is the only one that'll fit. Also, I swapped out the Magnecor wires I had recently put in for the Taylor 10.5mm with boots because I wasn't comfortable with the lack of clearance on the wire boots on a couple of the header tubes.
Overall, I really like these - well-made and sound great. Plus, the whole system weighs a lot less than the components you're replacing. :cheers:
Every system but the FLP's requires welding. If you like removing starters, jacking the motor, loosening your motor mounts, etc then go with TTS :lol: The sheer volume of junk you have to remove to put those in is ludicrous. FLP's are a COMPLETE bolt on system (ZERO welding). They fit perfect, come with cats, off road pipes, x-pipe, clamps, new header gaskets and bolts, and all is coated with a lifetime warranty!
Contact Mitch@FLP and tell him Levi Procter sent you. He'll getyou squared away ;)