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Need help installing Harmonic Balancer! Will this bolt fit?

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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Default Need help installing Harmonic Balancer! Will this bolt fit?

Just bought the vette yesterday and saw that the HB is shaking like crazy.

Lucky for me I was able to find a local part store that had a replacement in stock which I'll go pick up tonight. I had a little trouble finding a bolt though. The only one that showed up that would fit was this one at autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=228323_0_0_

Anyone know if that'll fit in the vette? In the description it says from 265-400 small block chevy V8s.

If anyone knows, that would be great since I'm heading out to pick up parts in a little bit.

If anyone can post a link to a how-to on replacing the HB I would be forever in your debt lol.

Thanks
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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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Maybe... I would use the GM bolt myself. http://www.spectergtr.com/mm5/mercha...gory_Code=C363

Or you can pick one up at your dealer.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ltan667
The only one that showed up that would fit was this one at autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=228323_0_0_

Anyone know if that'll fit in the vette? In the description it says from 265-400 small block chevy V8s.

If anyone knows, that would be great since I'm heading out to pick up parts in a little bit.

If anyone can post a link to a how-to on replacing the HB I would be forever in your debt lol.

Thanks
That is not the correct bolt.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ltan667
Just bought the vette yesterday and saw that the HB is shaking like crazy.

Lucky for me I was able to find a local part store that had a replacement in stock which I'll go pick up tonight. I had a little trouble finding a bolt though. The only one that showed up that would fit was this one at autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=228323_0_0_

Anyone know if that'll fit in the vette? In the description it says from 265-400 small block chevy V8s.

If anyone knows, that would be great since I'm heading out to pick up parts in a little bit.

If anyone can post a link to a how-to on replacing the HB I would be forever in your debt lol.

Thanks
That bolt is for a small block. I suggest you do some research on the LS1, before attempting this task. Much different than just slapping a balancer on a SBC.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
That bolt is for a small block. I suggest you do some research on the LS1, before attempting this task. Much different than just slapping a balancer on a SBC.


Yeah, a lot different!! The LS1 GM bolt is a stretch to yield, one time use and it's metric. You need a serious puller and the correct installer to do the job. Use the search function and you will get plenty of info. Don't mess with it until you get all the info or you could end up with bigger issues.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by fendermender
Yeah, a lot different!! The LS1 GM bolt is a stretch to yield, one time use and it's metric. You need a serious puller and the correct installer to do the job. Use the search function and you will get plenty of info. Don't mess with it until you get all the info or you could end up with bigger issues.
The OEM bolt is a stretch to yield. There are other options such as the ARP bolt that is reusable.

I found a 3 pack (3 sizes) of pullers at Harbor Freight for $15. I think it was the middle size that worked fine. I also understand that you can "loan" tools from several of the auto parts stores. You basically buy the tool, but when you return it you get all of your money back.

I made my installer by getting the metric threaded rod and some nuts and washers. Pretty simple, but quite a bit less $ than the specialized tools for essentially the same thing.

Good luck with your project.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Thanks for the info everyone, I'll have to stop by the dealership tomorrow and pick up a bolt.

Looked up a couple of threads and found a pretty detailed one on digitalcorvettes. Will have to study it tonight.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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replace the front seal when you already have the balancer off!!!!
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Old May 24, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ltan667
Thanks for the info everyone, I'll have to stop by the dealership tomorrow and pick up a bolt.

Looked up a couple of threads and found a pretty detailed one on digitalcorvettes. Will have to study it tonight.
Do a quick check for speed shops in the SA area. See if they have an ARP bolt. LS engines are pretty hot so chances are good someone will. Better and they're re-usable.

Still gotta torque that puppy like a ***** either way, but at least with the ARP you're not fiddling with an angle-gauge.

Type in San Antonio in the search box. There are several ARP distributors there. http://www.easylocator.net/search/map/carbonpress

Last edited by LoneStarFRC; May 25, 2012 at 12:14 AM.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ltan667
Thanks for the info everyone, I'll have to stop by the dealership tomorrow and pick up a bolt.

Looked up a couple of threads and found a pretty detailed one on digitalcorvettes. Will have to study it tonight.
You're going to need a threaded tool to press the new balancer on. I believe there's a forum vendor that sells one. I would strongly recommend against using the old crank bolt as you won't be able to seat enough threads to guarantee that you won't strip some. Some have used the LS7 crank bolt as it's longer...

Also, make sure you understand that the factory bolt is torque to yield, which means you're stretching the bolt. Once you torque it down you cannot re-use it. Hopefully you have a service manual. You're also going to need a strap wrench or something to keep the crank from turning while you tighten the bolt.

Good idea doing you homework before doing this. This isn't a fast job. The Cam swap write-up on LS1 Tech will also give you a pretty good idea of what the job entails.

Also... if you ever intend to do a cam swap now would be the time. You've already done 80% of the work when you get the balancer off.

Last edited by cdkcorvette7; May 25, 2012 at 12:30 PM.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 09:59 AM
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If you install damper bolt this incorrectly, it could cost you an engine rebuild!!!!! READ ALL THE SERVICE MANUAL PROCEDURESS!!! Unless the damper bolt is installed correctly, it will NOT work and you will either be doing the procegure OVER and OVER and OVER again or doing a LOT of damage!

Steve Doten covers this in great detail in the following post:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...hot-topic.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...nout-pics.html

The damper is part of the engine external BALANCE set up (especially if you have a six speed car).
MAKE sure that you mark the relation ship of the old damper to the crank snout so IF you have an imbalance issue after the installation of the new damper, you can have the new damper match balanced to the old one!

REPLACE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER DAMPER SEAL! Its easy while you have the damper out. If you dontMurphy will make it leak one day after your car is back on the road!

If it were me,, I would up-grade to a LS2 timing chain, install a ARP Damper bolt and replace the oil pump with a ported LS6 pump or a melling high volume pump!.

Bill
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
You're going to need a threaded tool to press the new balancer on. I believe there's a forum vendor that sells one. I would strongly recommend against using the old crank bolt as you won't be able to seat enough threads to guarantee that you won't strip some. Some have used the LS7 crank bolt as it's longer...

Also, make sure you understand that the factory bolt is torque to yield, which means you're stretching the bolt. Once you torque it down you cannot re-use it. Hopefully you have a service manual. If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. You're also going to need a strap wrench or something to keep the crank from turning while you tighten the bolt.

Good idea doing you homework before doing this. This isn't a fast job. The Cam swap write-up on LS1 Tech will also give you a pretty good idea of what the job entails.

Also... if you ever intend to do a cam swap now would be the time. You've already done 80% of the work when you get the balancer off.

"If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. "

WHOOOOO!! I can hear that bolt now. PING,,PING,,,,, PING,,,,, SNAP!

That data is WAY incorrect!!!!!!!
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. You're also going to need a strap wrench or something to keep the crank from turning while you tighten the bolt.
Your memory is not correct. The correct value is 37 lb/ft plus 140 degrees of rotation after the balancer is installled with the old bolt to 240 lb/ft, and ensuring the balancer is seated correctly by checking the balancer to snout clearance mentioned in the service manual.
A strap wrench does not have sufficient holding power to reach the desired tension on the bolt, a flywheel locking tool is required.

OP, I suggest you get yourself a copy of the service manual procedure for this job, if you install it incorrectly you risk damaging the crankshaft or having the harmonic balancer come loose in the future.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
"If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. "

WHOOOOO!! I can hear that bolt now. PING,,PING,,,,, PING,,,,, SNAP!

That data is WAY incorrect!!!!!!!
Indeed. Safe to say....his memory is NOT serving him correctly.....
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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I don't like the strap wrench method because it applies all of the twisting torque to the rubber portion of the balancer. The part that typically fails. I have heard it works though.
Best to get a crank holding tool that works off the flywheel.
The bolt shown in the opening post is way too small. It won't work at all. Wouldn't even thread in.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
Also, make sure you understand that the factory bolt is torque to yield, which means you're stretching the bolt. Once you torque it down you cannot re-use it. Hopefully you have a service manual. If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. .
1st pass, OLD BOLT 240
2nd pass, NEW BOLT, 38ft/lbs and then 140

the new bolt/old bolt often gets mixed up, I'm sure you knew this, but others reading might now
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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.......and the service manual version......




1. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N•m (240 lb ft).
2. Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.
Important
The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
3. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.

4. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
a. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
b. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A .
5. Remove the J 42386-A .
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
.......and the service manual version......




1. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N•m (240 lb ft).
2. Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.
Important
The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
3. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.

4. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
a. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
b. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A .
5. Remove the J 42386-A .
This always cracks me up, people will spend hundreds on tools and parts and won't buy the service manual. I have a cabinet full of service manual for all the beasts I have, i bad repair could pay for many manuals, especially with todays cars-this isn't an old Small Block Chevy anymore.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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The balancer is installed fully when it butts up against the cam gear. Something would have to be terribly wrong if 240 ft lbs didn't get it on that far.

A proper installation tool won't take that kind of torque to get it on all the way. Of course the thread pitch of such a tool is much finer than the stock bolt thread pitch.

New bolt is easy to tell from the old bolt. It has a lock tight compound on it.

The depth measurement could be different with an aftermarket balancer. You can measure the depth of the new balancer compared to the old with calipers ahead of time and do the math if necessary to get the final depth after install number.

Ron
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Old May 25, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
"If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. "

WHOOOOO!! I can hear that bolt now. PING,,PING,,,,, PING,,,,, SNAP!

That data is WAY incorrect!!!!!!!
Oops. Fixed
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