Need help installing Harmonic Balancer! Will this bolt fit?
Lucky for me I was able to find a local part store that had a replacement in stock which I'll go pick up tonight. I had a little trouble finding a bolt though. The only one that showed up that would fit was this one at autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=228323_0_0_
Anyone know if that'll fit in the vette? In the description it says from 265-400 small block chevy V8s.
If anyone knows, that would be great since I'm heading out to pick up parts in a little bit.
If anyone can post a link to a how-to on replacing the HB I would be forever in your debt lol.
Thanks
Or you can pick one up at your dealer.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=228323_0_0_
Anyone know if that'll fit in the vette? In the description it says from 265-400 small block chevy V8s.
If anyone knows, that would be great since I'm heading out to pick up parts in a little bit.
If anyone can post a link to a how-to on replacing the HB I would be forever in your debt lol.
Thanks

Lucky for me I was able to find a local part store that had a replacement in stock which I'll go pick up tonight. I had a little trouble finding a bolt though. The only one that showed up that would fit was this one at autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=228323_0_0_
Anyone know if that'll fit in the vette? In the description it says from 265-400 small block chevy V8s.
If anyone knows, that would be great since I'm heading out to pick up parts in a little bit.
If anyone can post a link to a how-to on replacing the HB I would be forever in your debt lol.
Thanks

Yeah, a lot different!! The LS1 GM bolt is a stretch to yield, one time use and it's metric. You need a serious puller and the correct installer to do the job. Use the search function and you will get plenty of info. Don't mess with it until you get all the info or you could end up with bigger issues.
I found a 3 pack (3 sizes) of pullers at Harbor Freight for $15. I think it was the middle size that worked fine. I also understand that you can "loan" tools from several of the auto parts stores. You basically buy the tool, but when you return it you get all of your money back.
I made my installer by getting the metric threaded rod and some nuts and washers. Pretty simple, but quite a bit less $ than the specialized tools for essentially the same thing.
Good luck with your project.
Looked up a couple of threads and found a pretty detailed one on digitalcorvettes. Will have to study it tonight.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


Still gotta torque that puppy like a ***** either way, but at least with the ARP you're not fiddling with an angle-gauge.
Type in San Antonio in the search box. There are several ARP distributors there. http://www.easylocator.net/search/map/carbonpress
Last edited by LoneStarFRC; May 25, 2012 at 12:14 AM.
Also, make sure you understand that the factory bolt is torque to yield, which means you're stretching the bolt. Once you torque it down you cannot re-use it. Hopefully you have a service manual. You're also going to need a strap wrench or something to keep the crank from turning while you tighten the bolt.
Good idea doing you homework before doing this. This isn't a fast job. The Cam swap write-up on LS1 Tech will also give you a pretty good idea of what the job entails.
Also... if you ever intend to do a cam swap now would be the time. You've already done 80% of the work when you get the balancer off.
Last edited by cdkcorvette7; May 25, 2012 at 12:30 PM.





Steve Doten covers this in great detail in the following post:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...hot-topic.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...nout-pics.html
The damper is part of the engine external BALANCE set up (especially if you have a six speed car).
MAKE sure that you mark the relation ship of the old damper to the crank snout so IF you have an imbalance issue after the installation of the new damper, you can have the new damper match balanced to the old one!
REPLACE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER DAMPER SEAL! Its easy while you have the damper out. If you dontMurphy will make it leak one day after your car is back on the road!

If it were me,, I would up-grade to a LS2 timing chain, install a ARP Damper bolt and replace the oil pump with a ported LS6 pump or a melling high volume pump!.
Bill





Also, make sure you understand that the factory bolt is torque to yield, which means you're stretching the bolt. Once you torque it down you cannot re-use it. Hopefully you have a service manual. If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. You're also going to need a strap wrench or something to keep the crank from turning while you tighten the bolt.
Good idea doing you homework before doing this. This isn't a fast job. The Cam swap write-up on LS1 Tech will also give you a pretty good idea of what the job entails.
Also... if you ever intend to do a cam swap now would be the time. You've already done 80% of the work when you get the balancer off.
"If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. "
WHOOOOO!!
I can hear that bolt now. PING,,PING,,,,, PING,,,,, SNAP!That data is WAY incorrect!!!!!!!
A strap wrench does not have sufficient holding power to reach the desired tension on the bolt, a flywheel locking tool is required.
OP, I suggest you get yourself a copy of the service manual procedure for this job, if you install it incorrectly you risk damaging the crankshaft or having the harmonic balancer come loose in the future.
"If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. "
WHOOOOO!!
I can hear that bolt now. PING,,PING,,,,, PING,,,,, SNAP!That data is WAY incorrect!!!!!!!

Best to get a crank holding tool that works off the flywheel.
The bolt shown in the opening post is way too small. It won't work at all. Wouldn't even thread in.
2nd pass, NEW BOLT, 38ft/lbs and then 140
the new bolt/old bolt often gets mixed up, I'm sure you knew this, but others reading might now
1. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N•m (240 lb ft).
2. Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.
Important
The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
3. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.
4. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
a. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
b. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A .
5. Remove the J 42386-A .
1. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N•m (240 lb ft).
2. Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.
Important
The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
3. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.
4. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
a. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
b. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A .
5. Remove the J 42386-A .
A proper installation tool won't take that kind of torque to get it on all the way. Of course the thread pitch of such a tool is much finer than the stock bolt thread pitch.
New bolt is easy to tell from the old bolt. It has a lock tight compound on it.
The depth measurement could be different with an aftermarket balancer. You can measure the depth of the new balancer compared to the old with calipers ahead of time and do the math if necessary to get the final depth after install number.
Ron
"If memory serves the first pass on the bolt requires you to torque it to 240 ft/lbs then turn it an additional 140 degrees... not sure on those numbers so be sure to check. "
WHOOOOO!!
I can hear that bolt now. PING,,PING,,,,, PING,,,,, SNAP!That data is WAY incorrect!!!!!!!


Oops. Fixed 















