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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Torque tube bushings?
i am getting ready to modify my car quite a bit over the next few months... i'm going to boost it with an ecs kit with d1sc head unit and i've ordered an act t2s-g01 twin disc as well... now when i do the clutch swap i plan on replacing the torque tube bushings while everything is out... i've done some searching and most people recommend using a rubber front and aluminum rear bushing... in your opinion what are the best aluminum bushings available?... and what about the front?... is oem the best or is there an aftermarket poly bushing that would be better than the oem rubber bushing?... i also plan to inspect the bearings once i'm there but other than the bushings/bearings is there anything else i should keep an eye out for?... i don't want to cut any corners and just want to check out all of my options
....i've done some searching and most people recommend using a rubber front and aluminum rear bushing...
The real question is why? Why do they recommend one aluminum, and one rubber? If you receive an answer "I've never had a problem"......sorry....that's unacceptable. Take the time to understand the physics behind the recommendation. If those making the recommendation are just doing what they are told, read, etc.........don't follow that advice.
Not trying to throw you a curve.....just some food for thought.
Good luck with your project.
Last edited by lucky131969; May 27, 2012 at 11:02 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by lucky131969
The real question is why? Why do they recommend one aluminum, and one rubber? If you receive an answer "I've never had a problem"......sorry....that's unacceptable. Take the time to understand the physics behind the recommendation. If those making the recommendation are just doing what they are told, read, etc.........don't follow that advice.
Not trying to throw you a curve.....just some food for thought.
Good luck with your project.
well do you have an answer as to why or why not?... i'm all ears... from what i've gathered the rear bushing takes most of the shock so i'm guessing that's why it was recommended to go with the aluminum one... and if i'm going to be adding a considerable amount of power it only makes sense that i am going to have to upgrade some other parts as well to handle the power and these bushings seem to be a weak spot
How can one coupler take more shock than the other. There are in series. Whatever shock or torque load one sees the other sees.
The Prothane are a good idea in theory but fall short in practice.
The only viable options for flexible couplers are stock replacements or The Driveshaft Shop full poly units. Or, you can try 2 solid couplers - make sure you shim so the shaft runs straight and you might get away with it. Also, Pfadt sells a carbon fibre shaft - have yet to read anything about long term durability of that one.
Lucky is making a point. You will often read to use 1 solid and 1 rubber but you won't find or receive any good reason for doing this if you ask why.
Running an aluminum coupler just puts 100% of the load on the rubber/poly one. Why would you want to do that I've never understood. I've torn through stock bushings and had Rick Kim install the DSS poly bushings.
As for the six shooter bushings...search member BAEZI and see what his experience was with them.
Eliminating the factory rubber bushings is one of the big benefits of moving to our Carbon Fiber Driveshaft system. The issue we have with the solid couplers is they do not offer any solution to small angular differences seen in the torque tube between the engine and transmission. By moving to solid couplers the forces that would normally be accounted for with a flex disk or rubber coupler are now transmitted to the bearings on either side of the driveshaft, leading to accelerated wear on the bearings. What's unique about our Flex Disk system is you end up with the stiffness of a solid bushing in rotation, but the system still allows for small misalignment like the rubber couplers do which keeps the rest of the driveshaft system happy.
In our opinion we would either run the OEM couplers, or our driveshaft. You also will lose 4lbs of rotating mass off the driveline with our carbon fiber shaft at the same time as increasing reliability!