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I'm debating between being cheap/educated and scared/lazy.
My once intermittent C1214 code is now permanent. I cleaned grounds last night and no change.
So, what has been your experiences with either path?
DEALER - Expensive but with some sort of workmanship warranty and the ability to make sure it's not a false code before going for the EBCM replacement. Downside is OEM parts that may fail in the nearish future.
DIY- I'm pretty capable for a shade-tree mechanic once I dive in, and I found good tutorials on pulling the EBCM and probably would send it off to ABSFixer as it's said they upgrade other aspects of the unit.
Inexpensive, comparatively, but if there is still "failure" or continuing codes, I end up taking it to someone anyway. Also sounds like some have considerable difficulty separating the EBCM from the ABS block.
If you are lucky, the dealer mechanic will actually properly run through the troubleshooting procedure in the manual before replacing it. There won't be anything else tested or done before it's replaced.
It actually looks pretty easy to take apart and fix yourself.
I am an accountant and I went the diy route with mine. Not real hard, but a couple of the bolts are tough to get started. Had Absfixer do mine 3 1/2 yrs ago and still going strong.
I'd say with a C1214 its pretty certain to be an EBCM failure. Send it off to absfixer and do the work yourself. Plenty of great How Tos on the Forum which you seem to have found already. The car will be fine while the EBCM is being repaired. Just don't go too enthusiastic on the gas
Just think, you probably know more about the C5 than the dealer mechanic
I'm debating between being cheap/educated and scared/lazy.
My once intermittent C1214 code is now permanent. I cleaned grounds last night and no change.
So, what has been your experiences with either path?
DEALER - Expensive but with some sort of workmanship warranty and the ability to make sure it's not a false code before going for the EBCM replacement. Downside is OEM parts that may fail in the nearish future.
DIY- I'm pretty capable for a shade-tree mechanic once I dive in, and I found good tutorials on pulling the EBCM and probably would send it off to ABSFixer as it's said they upgrade other aspects of the unit.
Inexpensive, comparatively, but if there is still "failure" or continuing codes, I end up taking it to someone anyway. Also sounds like some have considerable difficulty separating the EBCM from the ABS block.
Advice? I'm all ears!
If there is even a possibility that you fit the "scared/lazy" description.....you should just take it to the dealer.
If there is even a possibility that you fit the "scared/lazy" description.....you should just take it to the dealer.
I think most of the "scared" part is when it comes to doing the actual fix to the EBCM......which is what ABSfixer would be doing instead. So I'm less scared now.
thanks very much for great responses.....ears still open
Why spend $$$ to have a dealer's mechanic tell him it's broken?
He already knows that!
I think you're confused about what I posted. I'm just telling what the dealer will do. Best case is the mechanic will actually follow the troubleshooting procedure and then the ECBM will be replaced. The OP would be lucky the service manual checks are done let alone any extra testing to confirm it's actually bad or not. Workmanship warranty - no such thing. If the ECBM is replaced and that wasn't the problem the OP is still buying a new ECBM.
Any thought on whether or not it's worth having the dealership do the diagnostics only? Like checking wiring at the hubs and another thing I heard about the telescoping steering wheel causing a short and false code?
Any thought on whether or not it's worth having the dealership do the diagnostics only? Like checking wiring at the hubs and another thing I heard about the telescoping steering wheel causing a short and false code?
That's probably a 200 bill right there!
You REALLY seem to want to get VIOLATED by the dealer, it will cost more than sending it to ABSfixer if you let the dealership monkeys even LOOK at it. Go to the absfixer site, download the INSTRUCTIONS on removal and get off your BUTT. So easy a caveman could do it.
Any thought on whether or not it's worth having the dealership do the diagnostics only? Like checking wiring at the hubs and another thing I heard about the telescoping steering wheel causing a short and false code?
That's probably a 200 bill right there!
I agree with Doug about the possibility of a dealer taking advantage of you.
Labor rates for a diagnosis are in excess of $100/hour at most dealers.
Yer right about the dealership....once in the door...anything goes. While I "trust" the local establishment, it doesn't make sense to throw good money at having them look at it first. I'll get under it and check the harnesses at the wheels for anything obvious and pull the dang thing.
I think once I have it out, I can decide whether to send it away or solder and repair myself. My confidence level usually goes up once I have it in front of me. Guess I'm just spooked by electronics and possibly screwing things up that are more complicated than me.
Thanks folks.....with your help I've decided my path.....goodbye couch!
I'd say with a C1214 its pretty certain to be an EBCM failure. Send it off to absfixer and do the work yourself. Plenty of great How Tos on the Forum which you seem to have found already. The car will be fine while the EBCM is being repaired. Just don't go too enthusiastic on the gas
Just think, you probably know more about the C5 than the dealer mechanic
What he/they said. DO IT YOURSELF! Its not hard at all. Went the ABSfixer route three years ago. Turn around time was about a week. No problems since. Just make sure the engine is cold and you have enough light to work with.
First, C1214 is not an automatic replacement or fix of the EBCM. If you go through the diagnostic you can see it can be the EBCM or the BPMV or both. When the fault showed on my 03Z 5 years ago the dealer mechanic replaced both modules. Total cost of the repair billed to GMPP was $2800.
To diagnose the problem you need to check to see if the motor windings in the BPMV are dead shorted or have a high resistance short to the BPMV case. If they do you need to replace the BPMV at a minimum and more than likely replace of fix the EBCM. If the BPMV has a high resistance short to the case replacing the relay in the EBCM with a new relay that can handle more current will work for a while but since the BPMV is on the way out it will eventually burn the contacts in the new relay. The problem isn't so much fixing the EBCM but knowing what you have to do to really fix the failure.
First, C1214 is not an automatic replacement or fix of the EBCM. If you go through the diagnostic you can see it can be the EBCM or the BPMV or both. When the fault showed on my 03Z 5 years ago the dealer mechanic replaced both modules. Total cost of the repair billed to GMPP was $2800.
To diagnose the problem you need to check to see if the motor windings in the BPMV are dead shorted or have a high resistance short to the BPMV case. If they do you need to replace the BPMV at a minimum and more than likely replace of fix the EBCM. If the BPMV has a high resistance short to the case replacing the relay in the EBCM with a new relay that can handle more current will work for a while but since the BPMV is on the way out it will eventually burn the contacts in the new relay. The problem isn't so much fixing the EBCM but knowing what you have to do to really fix the failure.
Bill
Dam* you and your voice of reason!! Now I'm waffling again!