Just picked up today a 2002 02 convertible. Car was throwing all kinds of crazy codes at first. low voltage, service traction, service active handling, service vehicle soon, etc... ended up being a bad battery. put the battery in and now thats left is service active handling, and service vehicle soon. I've literally been searching and reading for 4 hours, but i'm not mechanically inclined compared to most of you. I can change plugs and wires and oil, but wiring and electronics I know nothing. Anyway i read on here how to check codes, I cleared everything and drove the car and it is throwing 2 codes....TCS C1287 C1288. I've read it's something to do with the steering sensor? This car is a convertible with 104k miles. Automatic and JUST had the tranny rebuilt less than 50 miles ago. The owner is retired and said the lights came on and off since he bought the car with 15k miles. Any ideas on what i should do considering my limited electronic abilities. I've read bill curlee's threads over and over and I just can't quite grasp it enough to try myself. I haven't felt the car "jerking" like other people have said their car does. Also the car is hard to start. It cranks over and over and over, then you stop and crank again and touch the gas pedal and it fires right up. Might have nothing to do with each other just curious. The car has been sitting for quite some time. Just had plugs wires, fuel filter (when tranny was out) front and rear seals? Brakes, rear tires, tranny rebuilt, oil pressure guage fixed, few other odds and ends. any help would be appreciated this is not my first C5. I'm aware of their terrible problems with electronics!

 

Is the steering wheel straight when you're driving it?

 

Yes, pretty straight i'm not in the car right now although i will be in a few. It's not noticeably off center, and doesn't seem to pull however i've only put a few miles on it i just bought it around noon today
thanks for the quick reply

 

Check it while you're driving straight. If it's off center you probably need an alignment, which would generate the 1287 code.

 

ok i'll do that now.
the guy i bought if off of has owned it since almost new. he said the lights been on since he can remember. The car has brand new rear tires, and the front are less than half so i imagine it's been a while since an alignment. I'll check now and report back asap although im pretty sure it's straight while driving. From my experience that doesn't always mean it's not out of alignment even if the wheel is straight
thanks again

 

Just drove the car and the wheel is straight. It doesnt pull either. I mean it will run alittle but our roads are pretty rough all cars do. So i guess thats out. Im looking at the new battery and right beside the batter between the side of the batter and the inner passenger side fender is a bunch of factory wires they look kinda "jumbled" up. Also the battery is tight however its not secure i can move it around. I dont see any moisture either. Not sure if these help or not. I mentioned earlier the car was kind of hard to start unless you tap the gas. Also when i popped the hood i heard a whistle noise and tracked it down to the coolant resevoir. Sorry if this is hard to read im texting!
Also the car drives and rides excellent. I can turn the traction on and off as well

 

Bill Curlee is the man you want to get with on those codes. He can explain the electronics side of things better than anyone else here.

 

I know he is the man ive read alot of his threads. I cant understand them though. Wonder why its hard to start. Fuel pump maybe. Anyway. Thanks for your replies and hopefully someone will chime in.

 

You don't want the battery moving around, make sure the lip on the bottom of the battery is secure at the firewall side, battery should slide under a lip and then you tighten down the clamp. This shouldn't be causing the TCS codes but it is something you want to fix. If the battery is moving it can loosen the connections which can trigger other electrical issues.

 

After driving the car 20-30 miles (still texting on my phone). Ive noticed a few more issues symptoms maybe. The two codes come up within a few mins after i reset them and i reset them at least 10 times. Also i was driving about 55 and had to stop somewhat quickly not enough to lock tires up but the pedal pulsated a few times very very slightly immediately it said i believe "active handling" or something along those lines then immediately the yellow pic of the car sliding lit up and the dic said SAH and SVS same 2 codes. Also when i was done fueling i turned the key to erase codes (car not on) and headlights came up? From then on the mext few times i drove the headligjts came on anytime the key was on? Also for the last 5-10 miles i didnt reset codes. When i got home i had the same ol 2 codes plus a new one. LDCM B2264H. The car is still hard to start. First try it turns over and over even if i hit gas it wont start second try it turns over a few times and if i dont hit gas pedal it will start but acts like it doesnt want to. If i hit gas while trying to start the 2nd time it fires up strong. None of this might be related im just trying to figure these issues out before i start modding/driving distances. Thanks guys i love this site

 

Bump. Anything ?

 

I would look at replacing the swps and check the fuel pressure. See what pressure is when you turn the switch to on but not starting the car. The pressure should quickly go to 58 lbs and hold after you switch it off. If not, you have pump or fuel line problems which would make it hard to start.

 

You mentioned TWO new tires. Any chance you have them mismatced as far as size? The rears need to be a specific difference in height compared to the fronts.

 

How do i check the fuel pressure? I dont have any special tools. The car seems to start a little better today. Still not perfect however. Also for the swps switch im not confident i could do it. Basically both issues should i take to the dealer?
Rears are 275s front are 245s

 

As a Vette owner, now would be the time to start getting those tools you'll need to diagnose and/or repair your car. Most of the repairs sound more difficult than they actually are.

 

I would at least check the pressure before taking it in to a dealer. There may not be a problem here and asking a dealer to check it is really setting yourself up to be taken. Pressure testers can be had at most parts stores. A Vette shop would be a much better choice than a dealer.