LS7 clutch vs. LS1 clutch.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
From: Murrysville PA
LS7 clutch vs. LS1 clutch.
Looking to upgrade my clutch with my base engine and drive train (just currently have about 25 hp more than stock).
Is the LS7 clutch "better" (easier to engage, potential to last longer, etc).
Since my 2000 vert has only 17,500 miles on it, is it really necessary to change the slave unit. I realize it's just another $100.00 + one additional hour of labor charge.
Thank you!
Is the LS7 clutch "better" (easier to engage, potential to last longer, etc).
Since my 2000 vert has only 17,500 miles on it, is it really necessary to change the slave unit. I realize it's just another $100.00 + one additional hour of labor charge.
Thank you!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 156
From: Huntington tx
I view the entire clutch system as a disposable. Just think about having to pull the clutch again if/when that slave does wear out. For the little additional cost you'd rest much easier and sleep better.
The LS7 clutch IS better and handles more Horsepower than the old stock LS1. Are you going to mod the engine in the future? Even if it's just a remote possibility, do it.
The LS7 clutch IS better and handles more Horsepower than the old stock LS1. Are you going to mod the engine in the future? Even if it's just a remote possibility, do it.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 21,325
Likes: 3,840
From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Looking to upgrade my clutch with my base engine and drive train (just currently have about 25 hp more than stock).
Is the LS7 clutch "better" (easier to engage, potential to last longer, etc).
Since my 2000 vert has only 17,500 miles on it, is it really necessary to change the slave unit. I realize it's just another $100.00 + one additional hour of labor charge.
Thank you!
Is the LS7 clutch "better" (easier to engage, potential to last longer, etc).
Since my 2000 vert has only 17,500 miles on it, is it really necessary to change the slave unit. I realize it's just another $100.00 + one additional hour of labor charge.
Thank you!
Bill aka ET
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 21,325
Likes: 3,840
From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
I view the entire clutch system as a disposable. Just think about having to pull the clutch again if/when that slave does wear out. For the little additional cost you'd rest much easier and sleep better.
The LS7 clutch IS better and handles more Horsepower than the old stock LS1. Are you going to mod the engine in the future? Even if it's just a remote possibility, do it.
The LS7 clutch IS better and handles more Horsepower than the old stock LS1. Are you going to mod the engine in the future? Even if it's just a remote possibility, do it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
Is it slipping or failing in some way? If it isn't "broke" why fix it? In my opinion, if they can handle your power level nothing beats OEM parts. Leave the stock clutch in the car and use the money elsewhere.
If you are bored and feel like spending money, come around here and buy me some parts. I actually have broke **** to replace!!!
Jack
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,373
Likes: 1,128
From: cold & windy
i'm putting down almost 540hp through the original LS1 clutch with 50kmi
granted, it won't last much longer if i keep beating on it, but your clutch should be fine for a while unless you ride with your left foot on the pedal or something
granted, it won't last much longer if i keep beating on it, but your clutch should be fine for a while unless you ride with your left foot on the pedal or something
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
From: Murrysville PA
Thanks for all of the responses. I guess I'm just not happy with the way I am engaging the clutch in first gear. Think I am leaning on it heavily when accelerating (not letting it out soon enough). Can't seem to get a smooth transition. My thinking is that a new/better clutch will have a smoother transation in first gear. If not an LS7 them maybe a Mantic ER2.
Don't seem to recall this situation with other manual transmissions that I had over the years.
Looks like my only other addition will be going to 410 rear end.
What do you think?
Don't seem to recall this situation with other manual transmissions that I had over the years.
Looks like my only other addition will be going to 410 rear end.
What do you think?
Last edited by bontrager; Jun 19, 2012 at 11:19 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,373
Likes: 1,128
From: cold & windy
it may be that you just ain't used to such a tall 1st gear (relatively speaking)
it took me a while to get used to considering my truck's got a 4.02 1st with a 3.73 rear
when i ain't drove the car in a while, i feel like i'm having to ride the clutch out forever on a start
it took me a while to get used to considering my truck's got a 4.02 1st with a 3.73 rear
when i ain't drove the car in a while, i feel like i'm having to ride the clutch out forever on a start
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
The LS7 clutch is heavier compared to the LS1. I upgraded about 7 months ago. Put in a new slave and master cylinder as well as the LS7 flywheel. Engagement is close to the floor the first thouasand miles or so but feels normal after a couple thousand but even broken in the engagement is still a little lower than the LS1's was.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
I'd suggest the LS6 clutch for a replacement. LS7 clutch kit is too heavy, and will rob power if you don't absolutely need it. Even then, there are much lighter clutch kits that hold the same or more power than the LS7.
Also for the pedal height, you can get a tick adjustable MC.
I've recently read you can take the dust shield off the bell housing, and adjust something on the PP to change the engagement point. Anyone want to elaborate on this procedure? Is this adjustment only there on certain makes of pressure plates?
Also for the pedal height, you can get a tick adjustable MC.
I've recently read you can take the dust shield off the bell housing, and adjust something on the PP to change the engagement point. Anyone want to elaborate on this procedure? Is this adjustment only there on certain makes of pressure plates?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Morrisville NC
I had the original clutch replaced at around 54000 miles and was recommended the LS7 clutch. I've got a base motor on a z51 car and it takes longer to change gears. The car feels more like a truck with the heavier clutch. This is with a tick master.. What do you recommend replacing it with for quick engagement and weekend road racing? I heard to stay away from organic compound based clutches like the LS7 which swell and cause inconsistent engagement points.
The stock clutch was great, balanced and the car felt much more nimble in the turns. I'd like a stock weight clutch that can take some abuse. With the long gear changes I wouldn't consider a gear change in a switch back turn.. What do you recommend?
The problem with shopping for a decent clutch is everyone wants to sell you a drag racing clutch that holds 1200hp.. That doesn't work for road racing.
The stock clutch was great, balanced and the car felt much more nimble in the turns. I'd like a stock weight clutch that can take some abuse. With the long gear changes I wouldn't consider a gear change in a switch back turn.. What do you recommend?
The problem with shopping for a decent clutch is everyone wants to sell you a drag racing clutch that holds 1200hp.. That doesn't work for road racing.
Last edited by justdrive; Oct 2, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 333
From: Olmsted Falls Ohio
St. Jude Donor '12 thru '24
Looking to upgrade my clutch with my base engine and drive train (just currently have about 25 hp more than stock).
Is the LS7 clutch "better" (easier to engage, potential to last longer, etc).
Since my 2000 vert has only 17,500 miles on it, is it really necessary to change the slave unit. I realize it's just another $100.00 + one additional hour of labor charge.
Thank you!
Is the LS7 clutch "better" (easier to engage, potential to last longer, etc).
Since my 2000 vert has only 17,500 miles on it, is it really necessary to change the slave unit. I realize it's just another $100.00 + one additional hour of labor charge.
Thank you!
My take on the two clutches is that if you are looking for smooth and/or low-effort engagement, then I would not go with the LS7 clutch.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,027
Likes: 169
From: oregon
Thanks for all of the responses. I guess I'm just not happy with the way I am engaging the clutch in first gear. Think I am leaning on it heavily when accelerating (not letting it out soon enough). Can't seem to get a smooth transition. My thinking is that a new/better clutch will have a smoother transation in first gear. If not an LS7 them maybe a Mantic ER2.
Don't seem to recall this situation with other manual transmissions that I had over the years.
Looks like my only other addition will be going to 410 rear end.
What do you think?
Don't seem to recall this situation with other manual transmissions that I had over the years.
Looks like my only other addition will be going to 410 rear end.
What do you think?
the slave is no where near an hour to change. they have to pull the old one to get the torque tube out, it's really a matter of which one to install meaning no additional labor
the 3 clutches i would consider are
1. ls6 clutch, it's 10lbs less than ls7
2. ls7 clutch, can take more power but heavy at 60lbs
3. monster stage 1. it's also an organic disc but can be had with an 18lb flywheel making the whole combo 43lbs or 17lbs lighter than the ls7
if you want a smooth, low effort clutch you would probably be best off with the ls6 clutch
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Morrisville NC
stay organic
the slave is no where near an hour to change. they have to pull the old one to get the torque tube out, it's really a matter of which one to install meaning no additional labor
the 3 clutches i would consider are
1. ls6 clutch, it's 10lbs less than ls7
2. ls7 clutch, can take more power but heavy at 60lbs
3. monster stage 1. it's also an organic disc but can be had with an 18lb flywheel making the whole combo 43lbs or 17lbs lighter than the ls7
if you want a smooth, low effort clutch you would probably be best off with the ls6 clutch
the slave is no where near an hour to change. they have to pull the old one to get the torque tube out, it's really a matter of which one to install meaning no additional labor
the 3 clutches i would consider are
1. ls6 clutch, it's 10lbs less than ls7
2. ls7 clutch, can take more power but heavy at 60lbs
3. monster stage 1. it's also an organic disc but can be had with an 18lb flywheel making the whole combo 43lbs or 17lbs lighter than the ls7
if you want a smooth, low effort clutch you would probably be best off with the ls6 clutch
Since I've already vested in an LS7 clutch, would swapping to a lighter flywheel give similar results to the ls6 or would you swap it out for a monster stg 1?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
the ls7 clutch with a fidanza aluminum flywheel is a pretty common combination, and it makes it about the same weight as the stock clutch assembly. Personally, I have a fidanza aluminum flywheel with an ls6 clutch and pressure plate, and the car is probably making about 40hp over stock.