Hi,

My 2000 C5 is setting a P0410 code. In the different threads I have read this code description is different from other years. I believe mine represents an Insufficient Activity fault from the drivers side rear O2 Sensor. P0140 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2).

So I unfortunately rushed out and replaced the O2 Sensor.

After installing the new GM O2 Sensor, I continued to set this code, and came back and did some more research. I then found threads relating to a vacuum leak in a common area under the battery tray. I did find a break in a line there and spliced in another section of hose.

I continue to set the P0410 code, while at the same time my AC vents blow air out of all vents, and I cannot change to floor, or dash only. This makes me think I still have another vacuum leak.

I plan on looking at the vacuum lines under the battery tray more closely soon, and am only posting to see if anyone has any other suggestions. Unfortunately I do not have a service manual set.

Thanks,

Don

 

I've no experience of that one but heres the guide if it helps

Document ID# 792395
2002 Chevrolet Corvette
DTC P0410
Circuit Description

A secondary air injection (AIR) pump is used on this vehicle in order to lower the tail pipe emissions during start-up. The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump.

The PCM monitors the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) voltages in order to diagnose the AIR system.

During the AIR test, the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR is activated, the PCM monitors the HO2S voltages, and monitors the short-term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating correctly, the HO2S voltages should be low, and the short-term fuel trim should be high.

If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond with the expected results during the tests, DTC P0410 sets. If only 1 sensor responded, the PCM sets either DTC P1415 or DTC P1416. The active DTC indicates which bank has the inoperative AIR system.
Conditions for Running the DTC

DTCs P0101-P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0171-P0175, P0200, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351-P0358, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P1120, P1220, P1221, P1258, or P1441 are not set.
The fuel level is more than 12.5 percent but less than 87.5 percent.
The engine is running for more than 30 seconds.
The maximum air flow is 22 g/s.
The air fuel ratio is 13.125:1.
The engine load is less than 40 percent.
The ignition voltage is more than 11.7 volts.
Vehicle speed is more than 15 km/h (25 mph).
The engine is not operating in any of the following modes:
Power enrichment
Decel fuel cut-off mode
The catalyst over temperature
The engine is operating in a closed loop for more than 15 seconds.
The engine speed is more than 850 RPM.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between than -10°C to +110°C (14°F-230°F).
The intake air temperature (IAT) is between -10°C to +100°C (14°F-212°F).
The fuel system is operating in fuel trim cells 1, 2, 4, 5, or 6.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

If the AIR pump turns ON during a closed loop operation and the HO2S voltage does not fall below 222 mV for 1.3 seconds.

Or

If the AIR pump turns ON during a closed loop operation and the short-term fuel trim does not change more than a predetermined amount.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

Diagnostic Aids

Important

Before you service the PCM or the throttle actuator control (TAC), remove any debris from the module connector surfaces, and from the module connector gaskets. Verify that the gaskets are correctly installed. The gaskets prevent debris from contaminating the modules.
For any test that requires probing the PCM or probing a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents damage to the component terminals and to the harness. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.

AIR Pump Relay Underhood Electrical Center Terminal Identification

Front of Vehicle

Left Side of Vehicle


Ignition


B+


Right Side of Vehicle

Pump Supply


Control

For an intermittent condition, refer to Intermittent Conditions .
An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:
Low system air flow may cause this DTC to set.
Excessive exhaust system back pressure
Moisture, water or debris ingested into the AIR pump
Pinched, kinked, heat damaged, or deteriorated hoses or vacuum lines
Restrictions in the pump inlet, duct, or filter
An AIR pump that has become inoperative and shows signs of exhaust gases in the outlet port would indicate a check valve failure.
Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections .
If a repair is necessary, refer to Wiring Repairs or Connector Repairs .

Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

If DTCs P0412 or P0418 are set, diagnose those DTCs first.

Inspects for excess resistance in all of the circuits that are associated with the AIR system.

This step tests for the battery voltage at the AIR pump relay.

This step tests for power to the AIR pump.

This step tests the ground circuit for the AIR pump.

This step tests for a grounded circuit between the AIR pump and the AIR pump relay.

A restriction in a hose or in a pipe, between the shut-off valve and the point where the system branches to each bank, causes the setting of this DTC . Inspect for kinks or for blockages from the AIR pump to the connection point where the AIR system divides.

Step


Action


Yes


No

Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics

1


Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?


Go to Step 2


Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls

2


Is the AIR pump fuse or the ENG IGN 1 fuse OK?


Go to Step 3


Go to Step 11

3


Is DTC P0412 or P0418 active?


Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List


Go to Step 4

4


Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the AIR pump relay on with the scan tool.

Does the AIR pump turn ON?


Go to Step 8


Go to Step 5

5


Turn OFF the ignition.
Remove the AIR pump relay.
Test the B+ supply circuit of the AIR pump relay coil for an open using a test lamp connected to ground. Refer to Diagnostic Aids for terminal identification.

Does the test lamp illuminate?


Go to Step 6


Go to Step 16

6


Install the AIR pump relay.
Disconnect the AIR pump electrical connector. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Replacement .
Connect a test lamp to battery ground.
Probe terminal A of the AIR pump electrical connector. Refer to Probing Electrical Connectors in Wiring Systems.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the AIR system ON with a scan tool.

Does the test lamp illuminate?


Go to Step 7


Go to Step 17

7


Test the ground circuit of the AIR pump for an open or poor ground connection using a test lamp connected to B+ and probing the B terminal of the AIR pump electrical.

Is the test lamp illuminated?


Go to Step 27


Go to Step 18

8


Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the AIR pump outlet hose from the AIR pump.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the AIR system ON with a scan tool.

Is air flow present at the AIR pump outlet?


Go to Step 9


Go to Step 10

9


Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the AIR shut off valve.
Start the engine.
Command the AIR solenoid ON with a scan tool.

Is a vacuum present at the AIR shut-off valve?


Go to Step 14


Go to Step 19

10


Inspect for a restriction or for a blockage in the AIR Pump inlet hoses and in the AIR Pump inlet pipes.
If you find a restriction or a blockage in the AIR hoses and in the pipes, repair the restriction as necessary.

Did you find and correct the condition?


Go to Step 29


Go to Step 28

11


Turn OFF the ignition.
Remove the AIR pump relay.
Connect a test lamp to B+.
Test the B+ supply to the AIR pump and the AIR pump relay coil at the relay connector for a short to ground using a test lamp. Refer to Probing Electrical Connectors .
Refer to Diagnostic Aids for connector terminal identification.

Does the test lamp illuminate?


Go to Step 23


Go to Step 12

12


Disconnect the AIR pump electrical connector.
Connect a test lamp to B+.
Test the AIR pump connector terminal A with a test lamp for a short to ground.

Does the test lamp illuminate?


Go to Step 24


Go to Step 13

13


Install the AIR pump electrical connector.
Install a new AIR pump fuse.
Install the AIR pump relay.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the AIR system ON with a scan tool.

Does the AIR pump fuse open?


Go to Step 28


Go to Diagnostic Aids

14


Install the following components:
The AIR pump outlet hose to the AIR pump
The vacuum hose to the AIR shut-off valve
Disconnect the outlet hose of the AIR shut-off valve.
Start and idle the engine.
Command the AIR system with a scan tool.

Is air present at the outlet of the AIR shut-off valve?


Go to Step 22


Go to Step 15

15


Replace the AIR shut-off valve. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Shut-Off Valve Replacement .

Did you complete the action?


Go to Step 29


--

16


Repair the open in the B+ supply circuit to the AIR pump relay connector. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the action?


Go to Step 29


--

17


Repair the open in the AIR pump load circuit between the AIR pump relay and the AIR pump connector. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?


Go to Step 29


Go to Step 25

18


Repair the poor ground connection or the open ground circuit of the AIR pump. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?


Go to Step 29


--

19


Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the source vacuum hose from the AIR Solenoid Valve. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve Replacement .
Start and idle the engine.

Is a vacuum present at the AIR solenoid valve?


Go to Step 20


Go to Step 21

20


Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the source vacuum hose to the AIR solenoid valve.
Disconnect the vacuum hose to the AIR shut-off valve at the AIR solenoid valve.
Start and idle the engine.
Command the AIR solenoid valve ON with a scan tool.

Is a vacuum present at the AIR Solenoid Valve outlet?


Go to Step 21


Go to Step 26

21


Repair the restriction, the blockage, or the damage to the vacuum hose.

Did you complete the repair?


Go to Step 29


--

22


Repair the conditions in the AIR hose between the AIR shut-off valve and the point where the system branches to both sides of the engine.

Did you complete the repair?


Go to Step 29


--

23


Repair the short to ground in the ignition positive voltage circuit between the fuse and the relay. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?


Go to Step 29


--

24


Repair the short to ground in the circuit between the AIR pump relay and the AIR pump. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?


Go to Step 29


--

25


Replace the AIR pump relay.

Did you complete the replacement?


Go to Step 29


--

26


Replace the AIR Solenoid Valve. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?


Go to s Step 29


--

27


Inspect for poor connections at the AIR pump electrical connector. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
If you find a poor connection, repair the terminal as necessary. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?


Go to Step 29


Go to Step 28

28


Replace the AIR pump. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?


Go to Step 29


--

29


Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.
Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.

Does the DTC run, and pass?


Go to Step 30


Go to Step 2

30


Use a scan tool in order to observe the stored information in Capture Info.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?


Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List


System OK
Document ID# 792395
2002 Chevrolet Corvette

 

Thanks, Dee Gee. I'll be taking a closer look at this in the next few days. I'm a little confused about the DTC codes. From looking at other posts, on a 2000 the DTC P0410 points directly at the faulty O2 Sensor, while in this doc it indicates an AIR system failure, and another code follows to indicate which sensor failed, if one has.

More research is in order for me, I reckon.

Thanks, again.

 

P0410 is for the AIR pump. Is this car modded? It is the code people throw when they remove the AIR system after a header install or whatever their reason.

The gate for the HVAC controls is vacuum operated. I do not know this 100%, but i believe the small vacuum line that is attached to the MAP sensor at the back of the intake manifold is where the HVAC gate gets its vacuum. If you have had the intake manifold off, it is easy to not get this back together properly, or forget it altogether.

Jack

 

Hi Jack,

Nope, no mods to the car, it's bone stock. Haven't had the manifold off ever in it's life.

One of the techs at the local dealer also thinks it's air pump related, and I have told him there is airflow coming out of the hose at the connection to the check valve on the drivers side. He's going to run a scan for me sometime tomorrow as a diagnostic.

After I fixed the small break in the vacuum line under the battery things were good for about 70 miles, then after a cold start about 5 minutes into a drive, it set the code again.

I'm still researching, thanks for your input.

 

Hi All,

The tech at the dealership connected the scan tool up to the car, we enabled the AIR pump OK. We then pulled the hose that connects to the check valve on the drivers side and he indicated there was air flow, but not enough. He said there should be enough flow coming from the hose to make it a little difficult to block it with your finger or thumb. I can put my thumb over the hose and easily stop the flow. While we had the hose disconnected we could also hear a fluttering sound from the check valve leading us to believe the valve is faulty.

In the morning I'll pull the pump and bench test it to see if there's a noticeable increase in the air flow. He thought there is no relation to the vacuum leak and the amount of air being allowed from the pump. I'll also check to see if there's a vacuum line leading to pump area, and if I find one, I'll put my mighty vac on it and the line leading to it to see the vacuum seen at the pump.

Hope this makes sense. Sure wish I had my old 2000 Service Manual back.

Don

 

Be sure to post what you find after testing the pump. You could just have a faulty check valve which is a pretty common issue.

Also, blowing air through all vents irrespective of the setting on your head unit is almost definitely a vacuum leak (been there, done that). Here's a great thread on that: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...with-pics.html

 

Thanks, Lucky, I've used these two and with some diagnosis I'm going back to a vacuum leak. I did fix a break in the line that's the source from the manifold over the weekend. Didn't look any further figuring that was it. Since I had the battery out, and felt sure that break was my problem, I buttoned it back up without testing the source vacuum. Not a good idea. Earlier this morning I did some testing with my mighty vac, and I can get the airpump shutoff valve to open, and when it does there is a noticeable increase in air flow going to the check valves. So to elimate everything from the vacuumn junction block over to the airpump, I put my mighty vac on the hose from the solenoid and pumped like crazy with the engine running. Same increase in airflow was detected.

So I then put the vacuum guage on the source line from the manifold, and yep, no vacuum. Sure wish they could have found a better place to put the source line than behind the intake manifold. So off comes the intake manifold and I'm going to replace the hard plactic source line with something a little more compliant and less brittle. Wish me luck. It's 105 out, and heading out to get 'er done.

Don

 

Thanks for the advice, I will give it one more shot by peeling the loom open as far as I can to see what I can find before starting the intake removal.

Don

 

Indeed it was, I debated on just jumping into the manifold removal, but your kung fu was strong and swayed me to strip into the wiring loom. About 4 inches further up the line I found another half moon type chunk missing from the hose. I put a splice on it, fired the car up, repeated my diags of splitting the line from the AIR pump at the connection above the drivers side exh manifold and I had strong air flow. Magically the code also cleared itself. I don't quite get how that happens, but there's not even history of it now.

I'm going to grab a chocolate shake and take a test drive, then if all is well, time to detail the car.

Thanks for coming back onto the forum and posting to search inside the loom. Our kung fu was strong today.

 

My '01 Coupe w/ 63K flagged a P0410 right after I bought it in 2016. I was able to get it through emissions just by good timing.
You may find this very funny.
You see, I'm an ASE Master Auto Tech and L1 w/ 45 years of exp. I just ignored the CEL it because it isn't my daily driver.
I printed out all the useless vacuum diagrams from Indentafix, Mitchell, AllData, etc. Then, while walking by my tools, I saw an OMRON GM relay on my box and thought!?? Yep, that was the problem!
You see, all relays cannot be commanded ON by Any scanner. Due to my experience... I have seen many relays fail especially the GM Omron's. Yes, they will "Click" yet do not complete the circuit every-time because the contacts get burned over time. (Trick; swap out the AC relay w/ the AIR relay and see if the code comes back!)
Happy Times... Now I don't have to remove the panel behind the RF wheel to test the solenoid!
I hope this helps!!!

 

Thanks. Luckily for me it was only a bad vacuum line.

 

Can you share Exactly where that line was? You see, GM vacuum diagrams are Extremely Vague in 2001 / 2004 LS1's.

Yes, If Anyone can produce a Vacuum Diagram for the 2001 / 2004 LS1 engine that shows All components... I'll bet you a nickel you cannot find it!!!

 

It's the line that comes from the intake manifold, and then gets bundled in the wiring harness as it runs towards the passenger side of the car. The line then emerges from the wiring harness underneath the battery and then connects to a relay. The relay then closes on demand from the engine and then vacuum is applied to another device. That's the best I can do.

 

so fixing the vacuum line behind the manifold solved your P0410 code related to the air injection pump? I thought that vacuum line was just for the A/C controls. I know for a fact that my vacuum line is bad on mine. Hoping that also solves the P0410. I see this is an old thread and the original poster may not be around anymore. Can anyone else verify this?

 

Yep, that fixed it for me. One of the guys in the post tipped me off to the vacuum line by asking if my vent were working. Mine were not. There's a solenoid where the vacuum line connects that is activated by the computer, and once it opens it supplies vacuum to another valve that then lets the air pump do it's thing that is related to the O2 sensors. I may not have explained that too good.

The spot the vacuum line was bad on mine was caused by the original battery leaking and dripping onto the bundle of wires directly under the battery. The vacuum line was encased inside that bundle, and I opened up the bundle and found where the vacuum line was disintegrating. I spliced in a new section of line there and my AC vents started working and the P0410 code it was tripping went away. I would have replaced the entire line from the back of the manifold but I went the easier route by splicing in a small section and making sure I used lots of baking soda to neutralize the battery acid. Thank goodness I didn't listen to the dealer that wanted to replace the air pump.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! really hoping this solves my P0141 codes....as well as getting my AC vents working again. I'll report back

 

well, I removed the battery/ battery box and found the loom containing the vacuum line. Opened the loom and found the line is in great shape with no signs of cracks or battery acid leaks. I can only trace it so far before is disappears behind the intake. I'm wondering if it fell off the nipple on the back of the manifold.

 

The vacuum line is for the A/C vent control and a valve at the output of the AIR pump on 2000 and later cars. I do not recall seeing this valve on 99 and older.
If you know there are holes in the line from the back of the manifold to the reservoir, I would just replace the line leaving enough at the back of the manifold to allow easy removal and reinstall of the manifold in the future.

Gary

 

update...the vacuum line from the manifold to the fender is fine. so what now?