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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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It's the one with the rubber 45 degree connection on the valve actuator, and small plastic hose on the other end of the rubber connector.

Last edited by Quicksilver Vert 01; Jul 13, 2012 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
It's the one with the rubber 45 degree connection on the valve actuator.
*sigh* Then I've got the wrong hose. Heading back out.....
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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No problem, take your time Ed.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Ok, the thin hose with the rubber boot only has 1 in Hg of vacuum pressure. I think there was more pressure on my arm in trying to reach that hose than in the hose itself.

Last edited by Corvette_Ed; Jul 13, 2012 at 04:17 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette_Ed
Ok, the thin hose with the rubber boot only has 1 in Hg of vacuum pressure. I think there was more pressure on my arm in trying to reach that hose than in the hose itself.
Ok, so there you go, no vacuum...the valve will not open. Time to pull the battery and tray...may have to remove the wheel well access cover as too.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:28 PM
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Ok, will report back after I finish tearing things apart. If I do find a hole in the hose under the battery, what's the easiest way to repair it?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette_Ed
Ok, will report back after I finish tearing things apart. If I do find a hole in the hose under the battery, what's the easiest way to repair it?
Depending on the extent of the damage, 5/32 vacuum line works well.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette_Ed
Ok, will report back after I finish tearing things apart. If I do find a hole in the hose under the battery, what's the easiest way to repair it?
Sounds like you're getting close Ed.

While your looking under the battery tray, also check the PCM and wiring for any acid damage.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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The good news is the PCM housing and wiring looks good. I haven't taken it out and opened it up, but there is no sign of acid damage, not even so much as a flake of white dust, anywhere under the battery tray or behind the access panel.

The bad news is that every inch of the vacuum hose I could see or feel seems to be intact. The solenoid is very loose though, not that I can twist my head around far enough to get a good look at it. I was able to verify that the vacuum hose is connected.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Depending on the extent of the damage, 5/32 vacuum line works well.
That would mean a trip to the parts store in a car that is now torn apart lol.

I'm beginning to think I should just put things back together and head to LG Motorsports on Monday to have them turn the AIR system off for good. If I try tearing the quarter panel off it's going to end up damaged. I just don't have the facilities for tearing things apart much more than they already are.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Is it possible to disconnect the vacuum line, and then connect a vacuum gauge at that solenoid?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette_Ed
That would mean a trip to the parts store in a car that is now torn apart lol.

I'm beginning to think I should just put things back together and head to LG Motorsports on Monday to have them turn the AIR system off for good. If I try tearing the quarter panel off it's going to end up damaged. I just don't have the facilities for tearing things apart much more than they already are.
Yep, sounds like you need to take it to a qualified shop.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
Is it possible to disconnect the vacuum line, and then connect a vacuum gauge at that solenoid?
I could probably manage that.


After I take a couple of vicodin....


What do I do after connecting the guage? Things are pretty much disassembled right now.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette_Ed
What do I do after connecting the guage?
If you find that you have vacuum there, and not at the AIR pump valve actuator, you could begin checking the rest of the vacuum line run, for damage or possible disconnection somewhere.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
If you find that you have vacuum there, and not at the AIR pump valve actuator, you could begin checking the rest of the vacuum line run, for damage or possible disconnection somewhere.
I've checked every bit of vacuum line I can reach and don't think I could get to much more than I already have without damaging something. At this point I think I'm just going to have the system deactivated permanently on Monday. I read in one of the linked threads that it doesn't affect the emissions any so I wouldn't have to worry about passing my annual inspection, which would be my main concern.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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Thanks all for the advice and patience. I think this is the first time that I haven't been able to fix a problem from what I've found or been told here, which is kind of disappointing. At least it's a problem that has another solution, and if it's just a reprogram it shouldn't cost me much.

If nothing else I now have a vacuum guage and digital multimeter to stick in my toolbox, and verified that my PCM appears to be in great shape and has never been subjected to battery acid..
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette_Ed
Thanks all for the advice and patience. I think this is the first time that I haven't been able to fix a problem from what I've found or been told here, which is kind of disappointing. At least it's a problem that has another solution, and if it's just a reprogram it shouldn't cost me much.

If nothing else I now have a vacuum guage and digital multimeter to stick in my toolbox, and verified that my PCM appears to be in great shape and has never been subjected to battery acid..
Don't feel bad Ed. You did all that you were comfortable with doing, and knowing when you've reached your mechanical and technical limitations is a good thing as well. You won't end up with more trouble than you bargained for!

Having the Secondary AIR System tuned out from the PCM, as you plan on doing, will NOT affect your next emissions test in any way. It will also eliminate the need to replace either of the two AIR Check Valves any time in the future.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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Thanks. It sucks that I wasn't able to fix it, but I think in the long run just tuning the system out of the PCM will result in fewer headaches, which is always a good thing.

Thanks again to both you and lucky for your patience and help.
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Default p0410hc problem

I have this same exact problem and have isolated it to a vacuum line torn in two under the battery area. This is on a 2001 Z06 that I just acquired, and someone probably tore the plastic line changing the battery. My question is where is the supply/reservoir for this vacuum feed since I have not been able to find the other half of the torn line. I have the portion coming from under the passenger inner fender and the solenoid located there. There is mention of a vacuum reservoir in the thread, where is it?
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 08:55 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by sb-stroker
I have this same exact problem and have isolated it to a vacuum line torn in two under the battery area. This is on a 2001 Z06 that I just acquired, and someone probably tore the plastic line changing the battery. My question is where is the supply/reservoir for this vacuum feed since I have not been able to find the other half of the torn line.
The vacuum source for the plastic line is at the vacuum tee located at the rear of the intake manifold.

It's not easy to see or reach it. You may have to loosen and slide the manifold forward to gain access to it.

Post #100 in the thread link below shows the thin vacuum line at it's source.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...k-valve-5.html

Last edited by Quicksilver Vert 01; Aug 22, 2012 at 09:12 AM. Reason: Added Link
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