C5 Battery Issue
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
Likes: 228
From: Kemah Texas
C5 Battery Issue
I went to start my daily driver 2003 MN6 C5 yesterday and it wouldn't start. The car acted normally when swtiched to "On" but nothing happened when switched to "Start".
I'm thinking my 4 year-old Optima yellow top is dead. I take the battery to Auto zone where they pronounce the Optima dead.
I get the replacement Optima, install it in the car, and I have the exact same dead battery symptoms.
This morning, just before I called the flatbed to carry it over to Frank's Vettes in Spring, I thought I would just check and try to start it - it fired right up - multiple times.
I never touched a thing after it wouldn't start with the new battery.
Any ideas as to why it waited until overnight to start?
Thanks for any help.
I'm thinking my 4 year-old Optima yellow top is dead. I take the battery to Auto zone where they pronounce the Optima dead.
I get the replacement Optima, install it in the car, and I have the exact same dead battery symptoms.
This morning, just before I called the flatbed to carry it over to Frank's Vettes in Spring, I thought I would just check and try to start it - it fired right up - multiple times.
I never touched a thing after it wouldn't start with the new battery.
Any ideas as to why it waited until overnight to start?
Thanks for any help.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I would take a good look at the battery and starter cable connections first, then check for any low tension or burnt ignition switch contacts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,055
Likes: 864
From: So Cal
You probably have an intermittent electrical related problem. Is it possible it will never happen again? Yes. Should you begin trouble shooting procedures before it happens again? Yes, just in case.
Good luck!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
90 percent that your STARTER SOLENOID is failing.. Very common issue and well known to cause what you are seeing. If you hold the key to start and have someone whack the solenoid, bet ya a cold one it will start. If it starts after you whack it, the solenoid is bad!
The Theft Deterrent Relay can also fail and cause the same issue. There approx $12 at Autozone and its an easy swap.
The Theft Deterrent Relay can also fail and cause the same issue. There approx $12 at Autozone and its an easy swap.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
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From: Kemah Texas
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
It seemed strange as the battery did test bad - I don't know why this issue would appear at the same time as the dead battery. Previous to that, I never had a start issue unless a battery was dead. This new battery is the third replacement battery in 10 years (which is about normal in Texas).
Since this is my daily driver, it makes sense to go ahead and replace the most likely components that would cause the non-start issue. I'll get the solenoid and TD relay swapped and all cables checked this weekend.
Thanks Bill for the direction!
It seemed strange as the battery did test bad - I don't know why this issue would appear at the same time as the dead battery. Previous to that, I never had a start issue unless a battery was dead. This new battery is the third replacement battery in 10 years (which is about normal in Texas).
Since this is my daily driver, it makes sense to go ahead and replace the most likely components that would cause the non-start issue. I'll get the solenoid and TD relay swapped and all cables checked this weekend.
Thanks Bill for the direction!
Last edited by tomlink; Jul 12, 2012 at 03:58 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Just do the TDR first. It could just be that and it would be a QUICK and INEXPENSIVE FIX.
If you replace the TDR relay and that doesn't fix it, then examine the solenoid. Could be just a poor connection or a damaged terminal. Make sure that the terminals are clean and tight as they get loose and corroded a lot
If all checks out, then replace the solenoid.
BC
If you replace the TDR relay and that doesn't fix it, then examine the solenoid. Could be just a poor connection or a damaged terminal. Make sure that the terminals are clean and tight as they get loose and corroded a lot
If all checks out, then replace the solenoid.
BC
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
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From: Kemah Texas
Bill,
The problem is that I can't replicate the symptom. Once I started it the next morning, it has worked fine since. Since the car is my daily driver, I'm going to replace the solenoid and TDR since, to me, it is cheap insurance compared to being stuck and having to flatbed it to a shop. Besides, it would be a good opportunity to re-do all of the starter connections which is probably a good idea after 10 years. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? Thanks again for the help.
The problem is that I can't replicate the symptom. Once I started it the next morning, it has worked fine since. Since the car is my daily driver, I'm going to replace the solenoid and TDR since, to me, it is cheap insurance compared to being stuck and having to flatbed it to a shop. Besides, it would be a good opportunity to re-do all of the starter connections which is probably a good idea after 10 years. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? Thanks again for the help.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You know that you have to remove the starter correct???
While your down there,,, check the HVAC Condensate drain and make sure that its not stuck shut, clogged or damaged. Pull off the rubber boot and turn the HVAC fan on high. Feel the pipe where the boot was attached and make sure that a good solid flow of air is coming out. Reattach the rubber boot.
You will need a 1/4 drive deep well scoket to remove one of the starter screws that resides in a deep recess. I got mine at a BUMPER to BUMPER store.. Try sears, NAPA or Advance or Aurozone. IF,,,,,,,,,, I remember correctly,,,, it a 5/32 socket. I would check first by fitting a socket on the other two that are the same size
Bill
While your down there,,, check the HVAC Condensate drain and make sure that its not stuck shut, clogged or damaged. Pull off the rubber boot and turn the HVAC fan on high. Feel the pipe where the boot was attached and make sure that a good solid flow of air is coming out. Reattach the rubber boot.
You will need a 1/4 drive deep well scoket to remove one of the starter screws that resides in a deep recess. I got mine at a BUMPER to BUMPER store.. Try sears, NAPA or Advance or Aurozone. IF,,,,,,,,,, I remember correctly,,,, it a 5/32 socket. I would check first by fitting a socket on the other two that are the same size
Bill
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Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 208
From: Huntersville, NC
won't start
Are you sure you had your clutch pedal all the way down. Try turning the key with the clutch out. You will see all the gages go to zero and you will think all is dead.
See if that replicates your problem. If so, you shouldn't forget to press the clutch all the way in again. (ask me how I know)
See if that replicates your problem. If so, you shouldn't forget to press the clutch all the way in again. (ask me how I know)
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
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From: Kemah Texas
Clutch pedal (switch) was the first thing I thought of when the car wouldn't start. Since the battery was bad, I'm thinking that Bill's suggestion of the solenoid sticking due to old age (and the TD relay) would be the likely culprits.
On a 10-year old car that I want to keep as a daily driver, I need to be confident that it will start when I am 100 miles from home. So even though it will cost a bit to replace the parts, It cheap insurance and cheaper than a car payment.
I don't have the time to mess with this myself so I'm going to drop it off at Frank's Vettes in Spring and have him do the work. He and his folks are super-knowledgeable on C5s and their rates are reasonable.
Thanks again for everyone's input!
On a 10-year old car that I want to keep as a daily driver, I need to be confident that it will start when I am 100 miles from home. So even though it will cost a bit to replace the parts, It cheap insurance and cheaper than a car payment.
I don't have the time to mess with this myself so I'm going to drop it off at Frank's Vettes in Spring and have him do the work. He and his folks are super-knowledgeable on C5s and their rates are reasonable.
Thanks again for everyone's input!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
Likes: 228
From: Kemah Texas
Talked to my local shop about replacing my solenoid as a preventative measure (120K miles) per Bill Curlee, and they mentioned that while they were in there, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the starter if I wanted to be bullet-proof.
They are not trying to upsell me since I'd be purchasing the starter myself and the labor would be the same.
To me it is cheap insurance so I looked at the starter options and saw the MSD Dynaforce starters at a reasonable price ($221.95 at Summit) - all-new parts and made in USA. I don't need the hi-torque output, but just want the highest-quality starter out there.
Has anybody out ther put one of these on their C5? Any drawbacks to using these on a basically stock LS1?
Could I expect this starter to last as long or longer than my stock unit?
Thanks for any feedback.
They are not trying to upsell me since I'd be purchasing the starter myself and the labor would be the same.
To me it is cheap insurance so I looked at the starter options and saw the MSD Dynaforce starters at a reasonable price ($221.95 at Summit) - all-new parts and made in USA. I don't need the hi-torque output, but just want the highest-quality starter out there.
Has anybody out ther put one of these on their C5? Any drawbacks to using these on a basically stock LS1?
Could I expect this starter to last as long or longer than my stock unit?
Thanks for any feedback.
