I think I may have Spark issues










"Lucky" is well known for his ability to create sarcastic posts that add absolutely nothing to the discussion. "-r2h" was making note that this wasn't one of those.....
1) Do you have a flashing check engine light?
2) Any misfire codes?
3) Is the miss only at idle? Normal driving?
4) Does the miss occurr cold, hot, all the time?
5) Any recent maintenace performed/history of car?
6) Is this is new problem? If not, when did it start?





1) Do you have a flashing check engine light?
No
2) Any misfire codes?
will check late.r
3) Is the miss only at idle? Normal driving?
More notiable at idle
4) Does the miss occurr cold, hot,
all the time? all the times
5) Any recent maintenace performed/history of car?
new plug n wires
6) Is this is new problem? If not, when did it start?
Hope this gives u a better idea
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





WOW... I have a very simular issue right now. I have a very slight random miss. I cant even track it down to one cylinder yet. (I have to break out the TECH2
) Anyway,,, I may have a bad coil and i plan on measureing each one for the correct resistance and doing a very close inspection on all aspects of the coil. Look inside the coil secondary tower and MAKE SURE the metal contacts inside are not burnt or corroded.Next: " MEASURE THE HOT IN ON AND START power on the fuse that supplies the power to the coils and injectors." There are TWO test points on the TOP of each fuse. Measure each test point to chassis ground. YOU MUST read full battery voltage on the fuse with the ignition ON. If it's significantly LOWER than battery voltage,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, your IGNITION SWITCH is causing the issue and is not suppling the coils and injectors the proper voltage to operate correctly.




FUEL


Read the voltage DIRECTLY on the battery and compare it to the voltage readings on the fuses that supply power to the coils and injectors. IF,,,,, theres a BIG difference, the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty/burnt.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 13, 2012 at 01:06 PM.





WOW... I have a very simular issue right now. I have a very slight random miss. I cant even track it down to one cylinder yet. (I have to break out the TECH2
) Anyway,,, I may have a bad coil and i plan on measureing each one for the correct resistance and doing a very close inspection on all aspects of the coil. Look inside the coil secondary tower and MAKE SURE the metal contacts inside are not burnt or corroded.Next: " MEASURE THE HOT IN ON AND START power on the fuse that supplies the power to the coils and injectors." There are TWO test points on the TOP of each fuse. Measure each test point to chassis ground. YOU MUST read full battery voltage on the fuse with the ignition ON. If it's significantly LOWER than battery voltage,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, your IGNITION SWITCH is causing the issue and is not suppling the coils and injectors the proper voltage to operate correctly.
Read the voltage DIRECTLY on the battery and compare it to the voltage readings on the fuses that supply power to the coils and injectors. IF,,,,, theres a BIG difference, the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty/burnt.
Last edited by Dale002; Jul 14, 2012 at 05:24 PM.






Take good voltage readings on the fuses. Just because the fuse reads good at one time, cycle the ignition switch on and off and see if you get the same voltages.
BC





Checked Battery voltage ignition off and it was 12.5
Checked Battery voltage with ignition on 12.4
checked battery voltage at fuses 16,18 and 22 and it was 12.4 at fuse 16 and 18 and 12.3 at fuse 22.
Started engine and rechecked voltage at fuses 16,18 and 22. fuses 16 and 18 at 14.5 fuse 22 at 14.3.
Accomplished voltage check as recommend after cycling ignition switch and voltage remain constant with the above readings. I was kind of hoping of finding a bad ignition switch. I've cleaned them numerous time using your techniques.However, not on this car.








