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I think I may have Spark issues

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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Default I think I may have Spark issues

Just changed plugs and wires( GM red wires) and thought of checking the spark with a held to wire type spark tester. The spark is intermittent in all cylinders. I checked my truck and cadi with same tester and spark is very fast and steady. could all coils go bad? is there something else i could check ?
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dale002
Just changed plugs and wires( GM red wires) and thought of checking the spark with a held to wire type spark tester. The spark is intermittent in all cylinders. I checked my truck and cadi with same tester and spark is very fast and steady. could all coils go bad? is there something else i could check ?
So the engine not running right?
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
So the engine not running right?
My god I agree for once.

Does it feel like the motor is running rough? Or is this a case of a solution in search of a problem?
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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[QUOTE: My god I agree for once.
--------------------------------------------
Curiosity got me, what does that mean?
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:49 PM
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I should have given more info. Sorry. Engine has 100k and run,but had a intermittent miss. I thought I would change plugs and wires in hope that it would fix it.. However,the miss is still there while running at idler. When you hear the miss the spark goes intermittent for a second or two. I'm using one of those press to wire spark tester which i know they are not the best of tools. When I use the tool on my truck and on the cadi, the spark is constant so it's not the tool.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by byronhunter
[QUOTE: My god I agree for once.
--------------------------------------------
Curiosity got me, what does that mean?

"Lucky" is well known for his ability to create sarcastic posts that add absolutely nothing to the discussion. "-r2h" was making note that this wasn't one of those.....
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Dale002
I should have given more info. Sorry. Engine has 100k and run,but had a intermittent miss. I thought I would change plugs and wires in hope that it would fix it.. However,the miss is still there while running at idler. When you hear the miss the spark goes intermittent for a second or two. I'm using one of those press to wire spark tester which i know they are not the best of tools. When I use the tool on my truck and on the cadi, the spark is constant so it's not the tool.
It really helps if you provide details.

1) Do you have a flashing check engine light?
2) Any misfire codes?
3) Is the miss only at idle? Normal driving?
4) Does the miss occurr cold, hot, all the time?
5) Any recent maintenace performed/history of car?
6) Is this is new problem? If not, when did it start?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
It really helps if you provide details.

1) Do you have a flashing check engine light?
No


2) Any misfire codes?
will check late.r


3) Is the miss only at idle? Normal driving?
More notiable at idle


4) Does the miss occurr cold, hot,
all the time? all the times


5) Any recent maintenace performed/history of car?
new plug n wires


6) Is this is new problem? If not, when did it start?
NO


Hope this gives u a better idea
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:42 AM
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Final question. Is this the same car that had flood damage?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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LOL WOW... I have a very simular issue right now. I have a very slight random miss. I cant even track it down to one cylinder yet. (I have to break out the TECH2 ) Anyway,,, I may have a bad coil and i plan on measureing each one for the correct resistance and doing a very close inspection on all aspects of the coil. Look inside the coil secondary tower and MAKE SURE the metal contacts inside are not burnt or corroded.

Next: " MEASURE THE HOT IN ON AND START power on the fuse that supplies the power to the coils and injectors." There are TWO test points on the TOP of each fuse. Measure each test point to chassis ground. YOU MUST read full battery voltage on the fuse with the ignition ON. If it's significantly LOWER than battery voltage,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, your IGNITION SWITCH is causing the issue and is not suppling the coils and injectors the proper voltage to operate correctly.









FUEL





Read the voltage DIRECTLY on the battery and compare it to the voltage readings on the fuses that supply power to the coils and injectors. IF,,,,, theres a BIG difference, the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty/burnt.

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 13, 2012 at 01:06 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
IF,,,,, theres a BIG difference, the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty/burnt.
That ignition switch can be a pita.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
LOL WOW... I have a very simular issue right now. I have a very slight random miss. I cant even track it down to one cylinder yet. (I have to break out the TECH2 ) Anyway,,, I may have a bad coil and i plan on measureing each one for the correct resistance and doing a very close inspection on all aspects of the coil. Look inside the coil secondary tower and MAKE SURE the metal contacts inside are not burnt or corroded.

Next: " MEASURE THE HOT IN ON AND START power on the fuse that supplies the power to the coils and injectors." There are TWO test points on the TOP of each fuse. Measure each test point to chassis ground. YOU MUST read full battery voltage on the fuse with the ignition ON. If it's significantly LOWER than battery voltage,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, your IGNITION SWITCH is causing the issue and is not suppling the coils and injectors the proper voltage to operate correctly.

Read the voltage DIRECTLY on the battery and compare it to the voltage readings on the fuses that supply power to the coils and injectors. IF,,,,, theres a BIG difference, the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty/burnt.
Thank you Bill, this is what I was looking for. I'm currently away from home,but I'll be back tomorrow and will start checking things out.

Last edited by Dale002; Jul 14, 2012 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Final question. Is this the same car that had flood damage?
Nope!
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dale002
Thank you Bill, this is what I was looking for. I'm currently away from home,but I'll be back tomorrow and will start checking things out.
We will BOTH be doing the SAME troubleshooting.

Take good voltage readings on the fuses. Just because the fuse reads good at one time, cycle the ignition switch on and off and see if you get the same voltages.

BC
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 05:40 PM
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OK, Checked all coils,wires and connectors for visual damage and corrosion. None noticed.
Checked Battery voltage ignition off and it was 12.5
Checked Battery voltage with ignition on 12.4
checked battery voltage at fuses 16,18 and 22 and it was 12.4 at fuse 16 and 18 and 12.3 at fuse 22.
Started engine and rechecked voltage at fuses 16,18 and 22. fuses 16 and 18 at 14.5 fuse 22 at 14.3.
Accomplished voltage check as recommend after cycling ignition switch and voltage remain constant with the above readings. I was kind of hoping of finding a bad ignition switch. I've cleaned them numerous time using your techniques.However, not on this car.
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