My manuals are on the way but not here yet. I've got the 99 FRC on the lift with the exhaust and tunnel cover removed. It looks like I'm going to have to break the brake line to lower the rear cradle, I've not seen this mentioned in the how too's. Am I missing something, I don't see a way around it. This car has 144,000 miles on it with the original clutch, I'm only changing due to hydraulic problems.
The entire motor is leak free, should I change the rear seal while I'm in there? I'd like to ask some questions before I continue this removal process. If anyone with actual knowledge of the procedure has time to discuss it on the phone PLEASE PM me your contact #. Thanks Steve

 

Look for Dopes write up, it will show you how to avoid breaking into the hydraulics of the brake system. FYI, I seem to recall the manual left out a few cable ties in the system so look over the cables real well before lowering. Also, I posted some time back about using a laser level during removal for alignment when re-installing. For me it worked like a charm and the drive train slid right back in with one hand. I was also working alone on my back

Here's a link: Link

 

No need to screw around with the brake lines - they can remain intact!

I just removed my rear suspension cradle and driveline last week - there are half a dozen black plastic "Christmas Tree" type push-in retainers that you'll need to pop loose from the aluminum cradle before you lower anything, one on each side holds the rear brake lines in place, the other ones are for securing the wiring harness in place.

As you slowly lower the rear suspension keep checking to make sure the brake lines and wiring harness aren't getting snagged on anything - eventually you can push the left side rear brake line up and over the rubber vibration dampener on the differential once the suspension is lowered down enough!

If you aren't pulling the whole driveline (trans / torque tube / differential) and rear suspension as an assembly (I didn't - I did the suspension first, then the driveline), make sure the driveline is supported securly before you begin to drop the suspension, otherwise it'll drop down along with the suspension and cause your engine to rock backwards against the firewall and possibly damage it!

If you still running the same brake fluid as you were 144k miles ago - (it's probably turned black by now) you would do well to bleed the old stuff out of your system out thru the caliper bleed screws on each wheel using an assistant or "one-man" bleeder system.

PM sent!

Jeff

 

Its out now. The most agrivating part has been disconnecting the clutch master/slave cylinder line that thing almost kicked my butt, but we got it disconnected. The other thing thats going to be fun is I wrung 5 of the 6 manifold collector bolts off. Damn I need headers. I still might need help, thanks for the offer. Steve

 

I removed my stock exhaust at a very low mileage and the studs twisted then. They seem to be very weak material. The line kicked my butt as well and re-installation of the new master was another fun time. With half the car all over the garage I was really starting to question what I got myself into, but hang in there it will all work out in the end.

 

It looks like now, that the whole mess is out, it would have been easier to lower the rear cradle first, then removing the trans and differential. Unless someone can tell me why this isn't a good idea, I think that is how I'll reinstall everything. I'm working from a lift, I'm sure that matters. Thanks to all.

 

You know that is called a quick-connect

 

I think it would be very foolish NOT to replace the rear seal while you have it available. It should be pretty simple.

 

So far she's getting a new rear seal, both axle seals, new pilot bearing, new flywheel, new z06 clutch & pressure plate (with new bolts) & throw-out bearing, new design GM slave cylinder with aux. bleeder, a new clutch master cylinder, new bearings for the drive shaft, new drive couplers plus new fluids for the transmission and differential. All from East Coast Performance. (Thanks Mike) Did I miss anything while I'm in here?

 

Short throw shifter if you don't have one already? Shifter came off anyway.

Tunnel plate?

O2 sensors? They're relatively cheap and it would be much easier.

Headers definitely.

The Factory Shop Manual (FSM) will tell you in what order and # sequence to tighten the FW and PP bolts to. I would recommend ARP bolts.

You'll need some blue loctite, IIRC.

And watch out for the exhaust manifold bolts that go into the head. They break easily, ask me how I found out...

New header bolts would be great as well, again, I recommend ARP.

 

I always drop it all as one big piece.