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Just started; ABS and Traction Control lights coming on after driving a short distance less than mile.
Pulled the codes:
TCS C1225 H Rt front excessive wheel speed
C1232 H Lf LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
SCM B2605H Seat Front Vertical Position Sensor Failure
RFA C2100H Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
U1000H Loss of Communication Undetermined
U1064H Loss of Communication with BCM
All the codes are H for history. I thought there should be some current codes.
the only thing that looks fishy are the codes with the left front wheel.
wanted some ideas before deciding whether to go to the dealer or not.
If you search for these top two codes I think you'll turn up a ton of information. I also believe the code list you are using is incorrect - both codes likely really refer to the same side. I don't have my list in front of me at the moment...
Most likely problem is the cable that goes from the wheel hub to the frame. Costs about $80 and takes about 20 minutes to fix yourself.
thanks for the replies. Its going in to the dealer on Friday. Cannot do the work myself.
When I spoke to the service manager about the lights he called it almost right away, when I gave him the codes he joked... now how did I know that might be the problem.
It looks like the front left abs/speed sensor is not good or just a bad connection. ( hope that's all it is)
Gonna check out some new cars while I'm there... see what trade value is. Of course just exploring.....
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I just had these lights come on in my car the other day after doing a AC compresor replacement. Turns out, I'd bumped the connector (blue/white one) that sits just under the compressor and it had been knocked open. Not sure how I overcame that locking connector, but I did. Plugged back in (after adding a little dielectric grease) and whalla, no messages/lights. Looking at the placement of those connectors, on a daily driver I bet those things can get pretty well covered up in road gunk and need a good cleaning or a replacement. My car has no dirt there, but I could see how they would lay in water if you had dirt on the frame rail. In any case, it's no surprise that's a common message people get here.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
BUT,,
Do we know it was actually a WSS failure? Cost of a hub at $500 (OUCH) and 2 hours labor to R&R it (OUCH AGAIN) is far more profitable than cleaning and perhaps adjusting/aligning the pins on the the original. No????
For me, a dealership is the absolute last resort, and only for parts. I have never in my life taken a car to a dealership for work that wasn't under warranty. I have a very low opinion of dealership ethics. I'm betting the day will never come that I see a dealership change my opinion. What a racket.
The dealer ship I am using came highly recommended from this forum. Please understand, I am not saying the dealership is doing anything wrong. They are a dealership, and I expected to pay. The only other work they have done was preventative, belts, Oil change, and replace trans fluid. All prices well within dealer costs.
I do think that the next time around, I will try to use the local shop that maintains my 94 Toyota. They are less than a dealer, but good work does not, in most instances, come cheap.
my light had illuminated for several years, only after backing out of the garage and upon shifting into 1st gear. it always went off upon turning the key off and then restarting. this year after taking it out of winter storage, the light never lit up. I've always wondered why it only came on in my driveway and now i wonder why it is ok.
After reading all the posts, you seem very knowledgeable about the Vette. So I was wondering, apart from the DIC, does the dealership have a method of actually testing the old hub/speed sensor unit to determine if the problem is in fact the sensor and not just the connections or as someone else mentioned, the wire connecting the sensor.
I know there are a few members who are techs for dealerships, so hoping someone can answer.
I will be asking the service manager when the part comes in and I get called.
Thanks 8VETTE7. I googled and found information also. so please don't bother to look for the numbers.
Trust me when I say I have dealt with some unscrupulous dealerships. We have a 94 Toyota Corolla, in 1999 a dealer told me we needed motor mounts. Well its 2012 175k and still have the same mounts.
On the other hand I have dealt with very honest dealerships. At one of them I wanted my brakes replaced at 35k,, it was a mini van that is notorious for going through pads. The dealer told me there was 50 % left and not to bother doing just yet.
The Chevy dealer I am using seems honest. They charge you 60 up front for diagnosis. I asked the question presuming the dealer was honest and wanted to know the technicality of checking sensors.