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Nobody answered the OP's question about if a tune is needed afterwards. I've been tempted as well to do the swap. But from what I've read, it doesn't make any difference below 5K rpm. And I'm not clear if a tune will be required afterwards. Read this article on intakes. I have never reved my 97' above 5K and can't imagine doing so. Going above 4K scares me. It does not sound good for the motor!So if that's the case that the LS1 and LS6 are the same below 5K, why do the swap???
Nobody answered the OP's question about if a tune is needed afterwards. I've been tempted as well to do the swap. But from what I've read, it doesn't make any difference below 5K rpm. And I'm not clear if a tune will be required afterwards. Read this article on intakes. I have never reved my 97' above 5K and can't imagine doing so. Going above 4K scares me. It does not sound good for the motor!
So if that's the case that the LS1 and LS6 are the same below 5K, why do the swap???
It's more a matter of not being able to buy parts when I start breaking stuff from abuse! I get on it pretty often, but the sound of the engine and exhaust I have as I get into the 4K range makes it sound lke I'm over reving it. I have a Corsa Indy Pace catback with the Tiger Shark tips. Only other engine mods is a Halltech Stinger intake and a oil catch can which seems to be working as it collects a shocking amount of oil!!! I also did a 160 degree themostat and sent my pcm to ECS for a mail order tune. 47K miles on the clock right now.
Being in California, smog rules apply. But I may have finally found a smog tech that will inspect in my favor!!! My plans have been to get a set of headers, either a Fast intake or an LS6 intake, a better cam, and either a better set of heads or have mine upgraded. Then do a local street/dyno tune.
And for the record, it doesn't scare me to drive the car hard. Panty comment!! It the repair bill that scares me if I break something. The Corvette tax is brutal!
Nobody answered the OP's question about if a tune is needed afterwards. I've been tempted as well to do the swap. But from what I've read, it doesn't make any difference below 5K rpm. And I'm not clear if a tune will be required afterwards. Read this article on intakes. I have never reved my 97' above 5K and can't imagine doing so. Going above 4K scares me. It does not sound good for the motor!
So if that's the case that the LS1 and LS6 are the same below 5K, why do the swap???
I did the swap and tune on my '98. I got about 10 horsepower across the curve, 14 at the peak. No way of telling what's attributable to the intake and what's attributable to the tune.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by FRITZM
I don't want to hijack this thread but i also am doing the swap. Thanx to the op for starting this thread and all contributors. My question is that i've heard a lot of bad stories about the oil pressure sensors going bad in c5's and the pita it is to change. So, does it make good sense to do a sensor relocate while the intake is off? If so, where can i get a kit. Again, thanx to the op.
Yes. That is the perfect time to install a relocate kit; access is easy.
dpecorvettes.com is the kit I used. It came with a small length of wiring to extend the wires (about 5" or 6"). I got the one without the gauge. This one uses the C5 Corvette sender (has copper crush washer) if you ever need to replace it.
West Coast Corvettes also has a kit they sell. They don't say, but I think their kit uses a Buick sender which has pipe-threads, hence the sealant on the threads.
Getting your sender out of the hostile environment it lives in (heat, vibration, etc) goes a long way in extending the life. I have only had one occasion to replace a sender in approx 4 or 5 years.
Btw, don't worry about brass vs. aluminum debate. My Delco aluminum uinit is the one that lasted 4-5 yrs, and I've now had an Airtex (aluminum) unit for 6+ months with no issues.
TPE makes one that requires more work, but is a great design. Not sure if they are even in business any more.
I will be swapping to the ls6 intake.
Can somebody explain the move the coolant tube from rear to front and not to plug it up verses what the instructions said to plug it up with a bolt???
First off, let me thank LoneStarFRC for his reply to my post regarding the oil pressure sending unit relocate.
Secondly, regarding the two tube approach to the intake swap, I have read that (and it seems to make sense) just plugging the rear holes or hose in the rear of the intake may cause heating problems with the #7 cylinder. The two tube approach supposedly allows cooling to that cylinder. The rear tube is joined to the front tube with a tee and a length of hose and allows circulation of coolant to the area of cylinder #7.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by nyelectrify
I will be swapping to the ls6 intake.
Can somebody explain the move the coolant tube from rear to front and not to plug it up verses what the instructions said to plug it up with a bolt???
A lot of people use the OEM Z06 tube set-up which comes with the two small fittings used in the rear. These fittings are not "bolts". They are plugs made for this purpose and each has a small gasket made onto it to seal against the block. You re-use your old bolts to attach them.
Here's a pic of one. They are widely available and prices vary all over the place.
Some people prefer to modify the underside of their new Z06 manifold a bit and keep the one-piece coolant crossover tube they already have.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by FRITZM
First off, let me thank LoneStarFRC for his reply to my post regarding the oil pressure sending unit relocate.
You're very welcome.
Originally Posted by FRITZM
Secondly, regarding the two tube approach to the intake swap, I have read that (and it seems to make sense) just plugging the rear holes or hose in the rear of the intake may cause heating problems with the #7 cylinder. The two tube approach supposedly allows cooling to that cylinder. The rear tube is joined to the front tube with a tee and a length of hose and allows circulation of coolant to the area of cylinder #7.
There's been some debate back and forth regarding this (#7 cyl thing) and AFAIK it has never been confirmed however, for those that choose, there are a couple ways to accomplish getting coolant line to the front.
1. Use the OE one-piece LS1 tube assy and modify the intake
2. Use a Z06 front piece and use a separate modified piece in the rear made from the rear section of a LS1 line and route a rubber line to the front and tee into the front hose.
3. Use small rear (Z06 style) plugs that are modified and have 1/8" NPT threads that allows hose(s) to be run to the front. Wegner sells them.
I don't want to hijack this thread but i also am doing the swap. Thanx to the op for starting this thread and all contributors. My question is that i've heard a lot of bad stories about the oil pressure sensors going bad in c5's and the pita it is to change. So, does it make good sense to do a sensor relocate while the intake is off? If so, where can i get a kit. Again, thanx to the op.
Just my opinion but my 99 is also a D D , and oil pressure sensor failed again, since I’m pulling intake for swap, a relocation kit is FOR ME a must. I hated to spend the$200 on it, but no more intake manifold removal for oil pressure switch failure, and the kit has a different supposedly more reliable sensor. I also appreciate all the great tips, and information about doing the ls1 to ls6 swap.
I have a 2000 C5. I bought an LS6 intake for it very early in its life. I just bolted the intake to the heads with the stock 4 point steam pipe system under it, and I never had any issues. With this intake, a 160° Stat, Flowmaster mufflers, a Blackwing air filter, stock exhaust manifolds with no cats and a tune, I ran a best time of 12.89@109.97mph. It is an A4 car.
it looks identical to the ls1 intake, not much to see unless they have done some dressing up in the engine bay
What is the difference. Reason I ask I know where I can get a LS6 intake ,TB and map sensor with fuel rails for 600 bones .
Does the ls6 intake take a larger TB .
And is wiring/hookup of TB different
Sorry for all the noob questions
Wonder what the gain side would be . I already have long tubes and some head work .And would I be better off just getting the intake and get a BBK TB .
Last edited by IronMaidens2.0; Jul 17, 2021 at 12:51 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
the runners are designed different internally, on the outside it is virtually the same as an ls1 and all the sensors are the same... the easiest way to tell is to look at the bottom, the ls6 intake is flat and the ls1 is concaved... the part number will also tell you but I don't know those off the top of my head, you can search around and easily find those... if you get an ls6 from an f-body that had egr you will have to block that port off but that's no big deal, if it came from a vette none of those had egr so you're fine... ls6 takes the same tb and there is really no reason to change it imo... plenty of guys have made ~1khp with forced induction on the factory tb and intake, if you are staying n/a then it wouldn't be much benefit unless you are building a max effort motor and use a larger intake such as a fast or msd which will require you to use an aftermarket tb anyway... the ls6 will help a tad bit but is not a huge gain (roughly 10hp or so on the top end) so don't expect it to blow you away