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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
First thing I'd check is the wiring connectors on top of the frame rails at the front wheels. You can get to them from under the hood. Mine are blue-white. See if there's a poor connection. Inspect both sides, add a little dielectric grease while it's open. May as well buy 2 tubes if you have one of these cars.
First thing I'd check is the wiring connectors on top of the frame rails at the front wheels. You can get to them from under the hood. Mine are blue-white. See if there's a poor connection. Inspect both sides, add a little dielectric grease while it's open. May as well buy 2 tubes if you have one of these cars.
Hmmm...given the codes...that's an odd place to start. The OP has an EBCM failure code C1214, which may be historical now, but tells you the relay is on it's way out. The 2200 series codes are consistent with low battery. Also, dielectric grease is an insulator, and not acceptable for contact interfaces...just as a topical treatment.
Thanks for the rapid responses. Looks like I should at least check the connections under the hood as well as the battery. The voltage starts at around 11.5 before the cars starts and is around 13.5 at cruising speed.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by lucky131969
Hmmm...given the codes...that's an odd place to start.
It takes an entire 30 seconds to look at em? Yup, he's most likely got other issues too, but I think it's a great place to start for the time reason alone. And yup, it's in insulator. I wasn't expecting them to be shorted out, I was trying to tell him that if he opens the connector, he can keep it from corroding later with some proper grease. It's just good practice for electrical connectors.
It takes an entire 30 seconds to look at em? Yup, he's most likely got other issues too, but I think it's a great place to start for the time reason alone. And yup, it's in insulator. I wasn't expecting them to be shorted out, I was trying to tell him that if he opens the connector, he can keep it from corroding later with some proper grease. It's just good practice for electrical connectors.
The one distinct advantage of modern vehicles, is the ability to target specific systems, so unecessary work is not involved. Sure, you can check all the grounds, but this is typically the first advice from someone who does not understand how to interpret the DTC codes.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by lucky131969
The one distinct advantage of modern vehicles, is the ability to target specific systems, so unecessary work is not involved. Sure, you can check all the grounds, but this is typically the first advice from someone who does not understand how to interpret the DTC codes.
Yea, and so far everyone has "Targeted" that any time a bunch of codes comes up on these cars, it's likely a battery issue. Not exactly direct and to the point huh?
The fact that he says 'periodic (comes and goes) "Service Traction Control System" and "Service ABS" alarms', tells me he's got connection issues. Yea, battery levels might be causing a threshold problem, but not likely when it's running.
In any case, the op may be out 30 seconds of his life looking at them, but he's not out any money.
Yea, and so far everyone has "Targeted" that any time a bunch of codes comes up on these cars, it's likely a battery issue. Not exactly direct and to the point huh?
The fact that he says 'periodic (comes and goes) "Service Traction Control System" and "Service ABS" alarms', tells me he's got connection issues. Yea, battery levels might be causing a threshold problem, but not likely when it's running.
In any case, the op may be out 30 seconds of his life looking at them, but he's not out any money.
I guess you are not familiar with what the implications of what a C1214 code are. It has nothing to do with "connections"....rather....in 99% of the cases, it has everything to do with the solder joints on the power relay internally.
If it turns out my C1214 code comes back regularly then I guess this means I need to repair my EBCM right? If I don't want to rip into it myself would you guys think this would be OK?
If it turns out my C1214 code comes back regularly then I guess this means I need to repair my EBCM right? If I don't want to rip into it myself would you guys think this would be OK?
If it turns out my C1214 code comes back regularly then I guess this means I need to repair my EBCM right? If I don't want to rip into it myself would you guys think this would be OK?
I thought I would update my situation on the original problem. I bought a CTEK charger, hooked it up, cleared the alarms, and haven't had another problem since .... including the C1214 .
My battery is nearly new and checked out OK at the store but most of my trips are short and I am not driving it a lot recently so... KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGED!