Hello Im a proud owner of my first American Sports Car a 2000 C5 automatic. After three weeks of ownership the car wont start. When i turn the key all the gauges move normally but it just wont start and i have a good battery. Things i noticed a sound like a lock and unlock mechanism when i turn the key on and when i turn back off and pull key out. I also noticed that even if my key isnt in the ignition the steering wheel isnt locked and im able to turn the wheel . My last observation for 4 days ive been hoping it would start and still nothing however just now the car tried to crank over and stopped... Smart me buying the car with no warranty.... If someone can help me Thank You......

 

You stated "I have a good battery"

These c5's act real weird when battery life is low on juice.

Most have no problems in this regards ...if they maintain their car's battery with an almost constant trickle charger, when car sets more than a day or two.

That is the secret.
Battery maintainer.

I bought my 03 brand new.
My car's original battery lasted a little over two years.
Once I had a battery replacement & I did some research here on the forum, I found out about the need of a battery tender.
I still have that replacement battery in the car...but keep it on a tender when car is not in use.

 

DIC codes?

 

Start there first.....

 

it might not bethe same problem, but check the little connections that read the resistor on the key. i had mine come loose and it caused pretty much the same symptoms .

 

If the battery isn't the problem, then it's the starter.

 

....many other possibilities....

 

id like to thank everyone for their help all great options to consider. I just borrowed my friends voltage meter. Battery has voltage. After doing some reading i wrote down the resistance codes for the key. When i placed the prongs on each side of the key on the part that looks like a small staple there was no reading at all on the meter. Could this be a problem where maybe i need a new key ? Thank You

 

Make sure you are using the meter correctly, and making good contact with the resistor. While is is possible for the key to be the issue, it would be the least likely suspect.

Why haven't you posted your codes?

 

What's the voltage?
Even a bad battery has voltage.
The question is does it have enough.

dan k.

 

...........

 

So it doesnt crank, but has a sound like a lock/unlock. Sounds to me like the starter pinion is engaging, but not spinning the flexplate or flywheel. Bad starter is my guess.

Crawl underneath and knock the starter a few times with a mallet. Sometimes this works. Then you know if its the stater.

 

Guessing is fun

 

Guessing IS fun. I would *guess* starter solenoid instead of the starter itself.

To the OP - it doesn't really sound like you have the electrical know-how to troubleshoot this problem yourself. I recommend you ask the friend whose voltage meter you borrowed (hopefully it's a multimeter and not simply a voltage meter) to help you diagnose your issue.

For a little bit of background data, you should be reading at a minimum 12.4 volts on the battery terminals with the car OFF and no accessories running. If you are reading below this, get a battery charger and charge the battery until it maintains at least that amount after being off the charger for ~5 minutes or so.

Since many people have asked you for your codes, but none have been kind enough to explain how to get them, here is the procedure for checking your DIC codes (props to Bill Curlee from whom this is stolen):

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html

Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\

Here are some more very good sites:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

To everyone who took time to help me thank you so much. the meter i had was a friends and it wasnt working right. Come to find out my car battery was registering 9.76 volts. This serves me right for not buying a 6speed where i could just pop the clutch.. I charged the battery and 3 hours later it started right up. Thanks Thanks Thanks
My next step is getting the steering wheel lock bypass cause from reading thats a issue and im gonna cure that problem before it happens...

 

As stated earlier ,a battery tender is your battery best friend.

 

For the column lock, I recommend the LMC5 module. I put one in my car and it solved all my column issues.

http://bit.ly/RXBcX0

 

The voltage isn't the only thing you need to worry about. Amperage is more important when it comes to the starter engaging, if the battery isn't pushing enough amps (aka current) then all you will hear is the solenoid kicking the bendix out. Amps provide the starter with the torque required to rotate the flywheel/crankshaft. Have your battery load tested (not just voltage checked), if it passes, check all chassis grounds.

If you are reading under 10 volts, you could have a dead/dying cell in your battery. No amount of charging will cure that.

 

Power sources don't push amps...equipment pulls amps. If too many amps get pulled, voltages drop, causing a higher current load and a vicious cycle.

Either way, the voltage check is a good way to determine battery condition at a glance. If a battery is reading 12.6 volts with no load, then it will be providing pretty darn close to its rated amperage.

 

A poor choice of words on my part, pushing was the first thing that popped into my head for some strange reason!

You are correct, if the battery doesn't have enough amperage on tap for the starter to PULL from (I.e. CCA/CA) it will not function correctly. I have seen many batteries with dead/dying cells read upwards of 12.2 standing volts, giving the inexperienced operator false indications that the battery is still good. My point was to not assume standing voltage is an accurate representation of the state of the battery. Load testers are cheap and easy to use