***SYSTEM CHARGING FAULT issues***
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 2
From: TX/FL
***SYSTEM CHARGING FAULT issues***
Hello guys,
Unfortunately here I am again trying to get some help regarding my 04 C5 Z06.
Seems I am having "SYTEM CHARGING FAULT" issues. This started a while back, it was kinda random. Usually when I would start the car, my voltage would be all over the place, the car seemed "rough" and I would get all kinds of codes (ABS/TC/etc...). this lasted for about 3-5 min when I first started the car and then went away.
I kinda put it off to the side until recently I got fed up with it and ordered an alternator from autozone supposed to be 12v/145mps. I installed it today.
Upon start up car felt great, took it for a spin and I felt like it was running strong. As soon as I started feeling happy my gauges went bat crazy they complete turned off for about 30sec and when I had them back my car was throwing all kinds of codes (High Voltage/TC/ABS/Charge system fault/etc..).... I drove it back home and the voltage never settled down. It got worse with the new alternator.
What is causing this? Any ideas and/or help would be appreciated
PS: I recently replaced my battery (month ago) and the following are the codes that are showing: P1637 HC and P0563 (This code wasnt there before, it just came up with the alternator I just installed).
Unfortunately here I am again trying to get some help regarding my 04 C5 Z06.
Seems I am having "SYTEM CHARGING FAULT" issues. This started a while back, it was kinda random. Usually when I would start the car, my voltage would be all over the place, the car seemed "rough" and I would get all kinds of codes (ABS/TC/etc...). this lasted for about 3-5 min when I first started the car and then went away.
I kinda put it off to the side until recently I got fed up with it and ordered an alternator from autozone supposed to be 12v/145mps. I installed it today.
Upon start up car felt great, took it for a spin and I felt like it was running strong. As soon as I started feeling happy my gauges went bat crazy they complete turned off for about 30sec and when I had them back my car was throwing all kinds of codes (High Voltage/TC/ABS/Charge system fault/etc..).... I drove it back home and the voltage never settled down. It got worse with the new alternator.
What is causing this? Any ideas and/or help would be appreciated
PS: I recently replaced my battery (month ago) and the following are the codes that are showing: P1637 HC and P0563 (This code wasnt there before, it just came up with the alternator I just installed).
Last edited by ZYBORG; Aug 14, 2012 at 03:09 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
Voltage regulator most likely but use a voltmeter and check the battery voltage with the car off 1st. Also check the connections at the STARTER, they are known to get crusty/loose and cause this sort of stuff.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 2
From: TX/FL
Voltage regulator is built into the alternator. If this is a new alternator (not rebuilt) I would not expect the regulator to be bad.
There are 2 thing that I suspect could be going on:
1) read this thread for info about the connectors inside the A pillar:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-there-is.html
2) Ignition switch may have a bunch of burned cntacts. here are 3 links about the ignition switch:
diagnosis
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
removal
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html
repair procedure
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
There are 2 thing that I suspect could be going on:
1) read this thread for info about the connectors inside the A pillar:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-there-is.html
2) Ignition switch may have a bunch of burned cntacts. here are 3 links about the ignition switch:
diagnosis
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
removal
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html
repair procedure
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
I was looking at it and dont think its got to do with the conectors for the LDCM, RDCM and SCM.
I think it has to be something else...
Unfortunately it is a rebuilt alternator. It got worse with the "new" rebuilt alternator from autozone..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 2
From: TX/FL
Update
=====
So I went to autozone and they did the battery, alternator and starter test with their equipment.
I was told that the battery and alternator are fine but that there was a fault in the starting system. This kinda leads me to believe that my ignition switch might need to be replaced/rebuilt or that the wire that conects the battery to the alternator has some sort of issue (corroded, burnt by my headders, etc..)
Any input anyone?
=====
So I went to autozone and they did the battery, alternator and starter test with their equipment.
I was told that the battery and alternator are fine but that there was a fault in the starting system. This kinda leads me to believe that my ignition switch might need to be replaced/rebuilt or that the wire that conects the battery to the alternator has some sort of issue (corroded, burnt by my headders, etc..)
Any input anyone?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Update
=====
So I went to autozone and they did the battery, alternator and starter test with their equipment.
I was told that the battery and alternator are fine but that there was a fault in the starting system. This kinda leads me to believe that my ignition switch might need to be replaced/rebuilt or that the wire that conects the battery to the alternator has some sort of issue (corroded, burnt by my headders, etc..)
Any input anyone?
=====
So I went to autozone and they did the battery, alternator and starter test with their equipment.
I was told that the battery and alternator are fine but that there was a fault in the starting system. This kinda leads me to believe that my ignition switch might need to be replaced/rebuilt or that the wire that conects the battery to the alternator has some sort of issue (corroded, burnt by my headders, etc..)
Any input anyone?
Only way you will know if the starter or wires are fried.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 2
From: TX/FL
***UPDATE***
==========
So i went to a different autozone again and had them test the battery and alternator.... Said both of them was good but test was showing there was a problem somewhere else.*
I went ahead and did the trouble shooting with the *voltmeter on both the fuse boxes as described with the ignition on.... I tested my battery and it read 12.46 volts all the fuses under the hood read real close right at 12.39 volts when i checked the ones under the passenger footwell two of them seemed to read just a little lower.... 21-22 read right at 12.26 volts 19 read at 12.39 volts..... Im not sure if this means i should pull my ignition switch out and try to re-build it...? *What do you guys think?
==========
So i went to a different autozone again and had them test the battery and alternator.... Said both of them was good but test was showing there was a problem somewhere else.*
I went ahead and did the trouble shooting with the *voltmeter on both the fuse boxes as described with the ignition on.... I tested my battery and it read 12.46 volts all the fuses under the hood read real close right at 12.39 volts when i checked the ones under the passenger footwell two of them seemed to read just a little lower.... 21-22 read right at 12.26 volts 19 read at 12.39 volts..... Im not sure if this means i should pull my ignition switch out and try to re-build it...? *What do you guys think?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,167
From: Dyer, IN
***UPDATE***
==========
So i went to a different autozone again and had them test the battery and alternator.... Said both of them was good but test was showing there was a problem somewhere else.*
I went ahead and did the trouble shooting with the *voltmeter on both the fuse boxes as described with the ignition on.... I tested my battery and it read 12.46 volts all the fuses under the hood read real close right at 12.39 volts when i checked the ones under the passenger footwell two of them seemed to read just a little lower.... 21-22 read right at 12.26 volts 19 read at 12.39 volts..... Im not sure if this means i should pull my ignition switch out and try to re-build it...? *What do you guys think?
==========
So i went to a different autozone again and had them test the battery and alternator.... Said both of them was good but test was showing there was a problem somewhere else.*
I went ahead and did the trouble shooting with the *voltmeter on both the fuse boxes as described with the ignition on.... I tested my battery and it read 12.46 volts all the fuses under the hood read real close right at 12.39 volts when i checked the ones under the passenger footwell two of them seemed to read just a little lower.... 21-22 read right at 12.26 volts 19 read at 12.39 volts..... Im not sure if this means i should pull my ignition switch out and try to re-build it...? *What do you guys think?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 50
From: Goldsboro NC
You mentioned a rebuilt alternator. You did get the correct alternator??? I only say that bc their is a specific alt for our cars and it isnt made here in the US. If im not mistaken, its the Valeo model.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
It sounds very much like you have connection issues on the STARTER SOLENOID. All your alternator wires that make the alternator WORK,, connect there.
Carefully examine all the wires and eyelets and make sure that they are clean and tight and the Bakelite insulator is not burnt.
BC
Carefully examine all the wires and eyelets and make sure that they are clean and tight and the Bakelite insulator is not burnt.
BC