Just got home tonight and had a low oil pressure alarm on the DIC. When ideling the oil pressure was about 10 psi. Any thoughts? I didn't drive the car real hard on the way home and it goes up to about 35 - 40 psi when the rpms go up. No oil in the radiator and no coolant on the dip stick.

 

Hey... new here..
I would venture to say it is a false alarm and could be a bad sensor.
Rule of thumb is 10lbs of oil pressure per 1k rpm.

 

It usually runs about 40 lbs, it is signicantly lower now. Soemthing is up

 

It's either a pump failing, a spun bearing or a bad sensor.
Don't drive it another 5 feet. Tow it to the dealer.

 

The oil pump bypass valve seems to be stuck open. Common problem.
Have it checked out asap.

Roger

 

My pump was shot... get it to a dealer. NOW

 

Ditto on the relief valve. Dealer said "drive it, don't worry.... " Chevy bought me a new engine when I gauled the crank and more.

F

 

I also have a 2002 Vert that within the last week has been giving me LOW OIL warnings on the DIC.

The analog guage always shows a good pressure though? I have reset it and it happens at weird times.

Could it be a faulty sensor? Are there different sensors for the ANALOG GUAGE and the DIC?

I plan to take it to the dealer, but should I be worried even though the analog guage always registers a good PSI?

Thanks!!
Flip

 

The DIC will display LOW OIL PRESSURE when the pressure is low, and will display LOW OIL LEVEL when you need to add oil to the crankcase.

The DIC message you are seeing has nothing to do with the pressure you are seeing on the gauge :yesnod: .

F

 

I agree that the car should be towed and the engine not started until a diagnosis has occurred. In my case, it was a faulty sensor. Repaired under warranty.

 

Service manual LS1 engine specifications:
Oil Pressure (Minimum - Hot)

6 psig at 1,000 engine RPM
18 psig at 2,000 engine RPM
24 psig at 4,000 engine RPM

Seems a little low, but that is what the manual says. Low pressure doesn't necessarily mean low oil flow to bearings.



[Modified by alc2001, 7:02 PM 5/31/2002]

 

I had zero pressure at startup until I bumped the throttle.

8 psi at idle.

24 at speed, and ~15 in 6th at 65 MPH.

This TRASHED my engine.

Flatbed the car to the dealer and insist they pull the pan and inspect the relief valve as well as pull some caps to check for damage. If there is damage to the bottom of the engine, you can be sure there is damage up top.

F

 

Also, insist on a 1 Year extension of the engine warranty due to this Oil Pump failure (if that's the case) if they only replace the pump and not the engine.

Or let them pull the engine and inspect all the bearings ;) LOL!

 

DONT PANIC!!! we see this all the time I have a 70,000 peso motor and at 210 degree oil pressure is at12-16 at Idle and 30@ 4000 RPM in 5th down shift and I may get 31-33 PSI.
1stremove oil filter and drain oil
2-Saw the filter from top to bottom I use a hack saw
3-Pull out the fitering media and if its bearings you will se many natal particals at which point we know we have a large issue that involves crank and or bearings,tow it to Chev.dealer if its under warranty if not bring it to a talented dealer,its not hard work but at 90.00 per hour labor parts@ full price etc....use a great tunner who for a few bucks more can do a lunatti or other major brand super strong bottom end.
4-no particals after oil change fill it with 5w/30 Mo-1 and a Mo-1 or upf-44 or a K&n filter.If oil pressure rtuns to nomal and problem solved I would install an XTREME magnetic drain plug purely as a $5.00 insurance policy.If the pressure is OK but you want another 8-12 psi and you live in a clmate where itdoesnt dip below 50 degrees change to a 15W-50 weiht you will loose some H.P and Tqe. but your motor will last longer and the oil film will protect on dry start ups but you will have eliminated it and stock or modded you wont feel the loss specially with intake/headrs/good plugsI like the NGK TR5's and you can be assured that the motor is properly tuned
and protected.The sending unit should be if the Dic had lots of bouncey readings and its a several hour job you can get the part direct from Chev, psrts dept.Of course if that wont work in 95% of these situations an oil change and good filter will deliver adequate pressure.If your bearings are clean you go for the pump I run a high Volume low pressure HI. volume pump that they use for endurance and drag racing.
I hope this do it yourselfer EZ project does you some good and theres hard
work involved with the sensor you have to remove the intake manifold and I drain my coolent and its a day job for a guy that knows how to wrench its 3-4 hours for a pro.The oil pump is a true day job but not so bad.
Good Luck in your project,and I'm sure you wont find any fileings.Dave S.

 

Good advice. Find a way to keep the current oil filter on the car. U may want to have them change it WHILE YOU ARE THERE and take it with you or have the shop cut it up and you keep half.

I'd make sure you are standing right there when it comes off & then is cut.

What's the follow-up story here?

 

Nothing new yet. I will have it flatbeded to the dealer in the morning. In the meantime, I did start the car for about 30 seconds on Saturday morning. It started right up, I got the "0 oil pressure" alarm on the DIC. The valve train was louder than normal, but no big Clunks, or Clanks, or odd noises. I don't think is any engine damage at this time (at least I hope not) I'll let you all know what they find. BTW, This is the first car I have ever owned that had an Oil problem.

How much of a job is it to replace the pump? Is there an upgrade for the pump?

 

Ouch dude. Don't start the car. Driving 100 ft or running for 60 seconds can spin a bearing.

 

Dude, that is so much EXACTLY the same scenario that I went thru last summer. Had the car flatbedded to the dealer, who returned it to me the next day saying everything was OK. They quoted GMs oil pressure numbers and said everything was within specs. Drove the car two more times while getting local forum members and club presidents involved before returning the car to the dealer. Got a new engine under warranty. If they had serviced it correctly the first time, GM would be about $8k better off. DON'T BACK DOWN. IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE even though there is no TSB on the pump.

F

 

It won't be started again until they diagnose it. Any idea how they will determine if the oil pump is bad without starting the car.

 

Dealer said the oil pump is bad. He doesn't think there is any other damage. $1500, mostly labor to replace it.