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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Default C6 tunnel plate

So I finally found a used C6 tunnel plate that wasn't a rape price. This one happens to have the part number off of a C6 Z06. But they are all the same thickness, so that doesn't matter.
I was wanting to do the heat shield while I was at it, but the pre-cut thermal covers are way to much money.
I was thinking of using my VHT header paint on it because I have allot sitting around.
Would this help keep temperatures down at all? Or should I get the universal wrap kits that parts stores sell with the one sticky side and cover it with that? Would it stay on there?
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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Jegs/Summit, both have reasonably priced sticky sided barriers.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
So I finally found a used C6 tunnel plate that wasn't a rape price. This one happens to have the part number off of a C6 Z06. But they are all the same thickness, so that doesn't matter.
I was wanting to do the heat shield while I was at it, but the pre-cut thermal covers are way to much money.
I was thinking of using my VHT header paint on it because I have allot sitting around.
Would this help keep temperatures down at all? Or should I get the universal wrap kits that parts stores sell with the one sticky side and cover it with that? Would it stay on there?
If your main purpose is heat control/rejection, how about a tunnel-plate sandwich? Use the one you bought combined with your C5 piece. That alone would give you extra strength/stiffness and some additional measure of heat control. For best heat control, I would recommend staying with products made for this purpose, like the stuff Thermo-Tec offers. Maybe pick one that you can attach/stick to one of the plates and then install the other one over it, sandwich style. It (heat shield material) doesn't need to be terribly thick. I recall a few members over the years saying the bolts are long enough already for two plates, and hopefully that could include the slightly thicker depth for using 2 plates and heat shield inside as well. If not, longer bolts are easy to find. Remember, they're metric.

HTH

HTH
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Well,,,,,,, while I had my drive train out, I decided to install FROST KING insulation in the tunnel. When I was done I was impressed. Looked really good and was SURE to reduce the temp on the tunnel.

A few months after the car was back on the road, the tunnel got SO HOT that I thought it was going to catch fire.

I jacked the car up and found that the glue for the insulation melted and parts of the insulation fell down and BLOCKED all the air going thru the tunnel!

So,,,,,, I had to use a long extraction tool to dig the fallen insulation out.

Whatever you do,, MAKE SURE that the glue that you use to secure whatever insulation in place will NOT melt in high heat.

Unless you use some sort of specialized thermal coating like the stuff that they advertise on Horse Power TV (LIZARD SKIN) it is a waste of time.

http://www.lizardskin.com/

Hope this helps!
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Well,,,,,,, while I had my drive train out, I decided to install FROST KING insulation in the tunnel. When I was done I was impressed. Looked really good and was SURE to reduce the temp on the tunnel.

A few months after the car was back on the road, the tunnel got SO HOT that I thought it was going to catch fire.

I jacked the car up and found that the glue for the insulation melted and parts of the insulation fell down and BLOCKED all the air going thru the tunnel!

So,,,,,, I had to use a long extraction tool to dig the fallen insulation out.

Whatever you do,, MAKE SURE that the glue that you use to secure whatever insulation in place will NOT melt in high heat.

Unless you use some sort of specialized thermal coating like the stuff that they advertise on Horse Power TV (LIZARD SKIN) it is a waste of time.

http://www.lizardskin.com/

Hope this helps!
Good post Bill.

That's why I recommended the "sandwich" to NukeC5 in his situation, to prevent this very thing, since it does not rely on adhesive alone to stay in place.
The tunnel plate temperature shields (Thermal Abs) sold by Elite Engineering for example, uses a high heat-resistant adhesive AND also uses the factory bolts to hold it in position.

Also don't want to use something that soaks up water after driving in a good rain and acts like a sponge to retain water and cause corrosion issues either. Lot's of folks don't drive their cars everyday, so don't have the exhaust heat drying things out under there like they would on a DD.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Thats a good idea. When I have everything out to rebuild the torque tube I will go back together with the C6 plate first (covered in self adhesive heat shield), and put the stock plate on over it to hold it all together.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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You won't need to add the stock plate to the aluminum c6 plate.

The c6 plate covered with the thermal add on will be sufficient.


C6 , Z plates are aluminum, & not quite twice the thickness of a stock c5 plate

Aluminized Heat Barrier adhesive backed
2000 degrees radiant heat reflection

Withstands continuous temps of 400 degrees
Aggressive adhesive, adheres to virtually any surface
Cool IT Thermo Tec
www.themotec.com
part#13590 24"x 48" That is enough material to do two complete plates

Last edited by bumble-z; Aug 31, 2012 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
You won't need to add the stock plate to the aluminum c6 plate.

The c6 plate covered with the thermal add on will be sufficient.
Its a used one off ebay, and it looks pretty metal all around to me. I think it will benefit allot to put something on it to keep the exhaust heat down in the tunnel.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
You won't need to add the stock plate to the aluminum c6 plate.

The c6 plate covered with the thermal add on will be sufficient.
I agree completely, but I was suggesting the additional use of the C5 plate since he already has it and it will offer much of the torsional stiffness benefit that is offered by the aftermarket 1/4" or 5/16" tunnel plates.

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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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Update
I installed the C6 tunnel plate. I'm glad I only paid 50 bucks for it because I have to say, it made little to no difference. I've had it in for a couple weeks now and done plenty of testing. The swaybars made a clear difference in body movement and I was hoping for a little more with the C6 plate. If it did anything, it was very little.
Just giving an honest opinion on this mod.
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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Well it did save in weight.

You failed to mention...? What you did for heat controll if anything.
How about if you find another C6 plate & double up the thickness, along with a heat barrier?

I doubled up stock C5 plates & went with the heat barrier, as I mentioned prior.

It strengthened the tunnel area quite a bit.

However, This route = Heavy compared to 1/4"-3/8" aluminum plates.
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Well I can tell you the Elite Tunnel plate does make a noticeable difference. When I had mine installed I went down a driveway with a twist in it and you could definitely feel the car did not twist with the road and no more squeaks from the Targa Top so I am thinking the C6 tunnel plate is not stiff/thick enough. Did you also use the stock plate to add thickness?
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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I put a 1/4" Al plate on my car. Really didn't notice much difference either. I think it is a little better but certainly nowhere close to the improved handling and much more responsive car that others have claimed.
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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I'm sure it did a little. It is double the thickness of the C5 plate. Just not worth paying new or full price for an aftermarket or GM C6 plate.
I didn't use the C5 plate with it because the C5 plate has several protruding areas that do not allow it to sit flat without modification. Plus I don't want the weight of both. I opted no to put heat shield material on and painted it with some high temp VHT header paint I had laying around.
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