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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:09 AM
  #21  
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Looks like a whole lot of extra work for a cam swap, removing steering rack, radiator etc. does all that have to be done with heads?

I read mixed things, does more gain come from 243 heads or ls6 cam? I understand there is better options but im hoping to pick up the cam cheap especially compared to other options. I also read with better aftermarket cams you need to change more parts as well.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
You can either look underneath the rear on the side of the diff and the ratio will be on a placard. Or you can look at the code in the glove box. GU2 is for 2.73, G90 is 3.15, and GU6 is 3.42.

I am pretty sure you could get by without a tune, but I would not recommend it. You will get much more out of it with a tune. And if you are going to go through all the work of changing or having the cam changed, you should do a way better cam.
Oh no doubt a tune is a must, besides with headers etc id do it anyway. I was just wondering bc if its drivable, that can save a serious amount of money getting it to the tuner.

Im sure theres plenty of better cam options but i want to keep the gas mileage, driveability, and not break the bank. Id just like to be close to 400rwhp. I cant over do it bc i dont want to destroy the tranny.

Last edited by apollo240; Oct 9, 2012 at 12:14 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:14 AM
  #23  
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You need better valve springs for an upgraded cam. That is true for the LS6 cam as well. LS6 engines had better valve springs to handle the lift. So you need to do at least valve springs.
And no, heads come off the top, most of the work involved in the cam swap is not necessary for the heads alone.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
You need better valve springs for an upgraded cam. That is true for the LS6 cam as well. LS6 engines had better valve springs to handle the lift. So you need to do at least valve springs.
And no, heads come off the top, most of the work involved in the cam swap is not necessary for the heads alone.
Is the head swap worth it without doing the cam?
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:18 AM
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243 heads on a stock internals LS1 will net marginal gains. 10-15 maybe. Not worth the work or price IMO
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
243 heads on a stock internals LS1 will net marginal gains. 10-15 maybe. Not worth the work or price IMO
Significantly better with the cam and valve springs?
I dont know alot so excuse my ignorance but shouldnt the 243 heads if they are from a Z come with the proper valve springs?
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by apollo240
Significantly better with the cam and valve springs?
I dont know alot so excuse my ignorance but shouldnt the 243 heads if they are from a Z come with the proper valve springs?
It is foolish not to re-build heads before going on. Valve springs wear out and most cars are in need of new ones by 100k miles but never get them unless the engine is opened up. You would also want to do new valve seals and have the heads checked for valve guide wear and if the need of a valve job exists.
A cam will always be the biggest power adder in an N/A car. It would do more than the heads, but both together will work off of each other well and make the most power.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 12:32 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
It is foolish not to re-build heads before going on. Valve springs wear out and most cars are in need of new ones by 100k miles but never get them unless the engine is opened up. You would also want to do new valve seals and have the heads checked for valve guide wear and if the need of a valve job exists.
A cam will always be the biggest power adder in an N/A car. It would do more than the heads, but both together will work off of each other well and make the most power.
Ok, so if i pick up a set of used heads/cam, i could drop it off at the machine shop, have all that done in the time itll take to get the rest of the parts done.

Am i on the right track to meet my power goal of 370rwhp? Is there an easier/cheaper way to make this power?(nitrous is not an option) Can the stock 4l60e handle this power?

Last edited by apollo240; Oct 9, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 01:04 AM
  #29  
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I guess i should add a 160 degree thermostat too this as well
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 01:19 AM
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You can make 370whp with LS6 internals and good bolt ons, IE: headrs, intake etc.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by apollo240
Significantly better with the cam and valve springs?
I dont know alot so excuse my ignorance but shouldnt the 243 heads if they are from a Z come with the proper valve springs?
for a max cam lift of .575 most ppl go with a cam with a higher lift so springs to a .600 or .625 for a cam lift of .590 or so.

most 243 heads do not flow to well above .575 cam lift, unless the heads are ported and polished.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
for a max cam lift of .575 most ppl go with a cam with a higher lift so springs to a .600 or .625 for a cam lift of .590 or so.

most 243 heads do not flow to well above .575 cam lift, unless the heads are ported and polished.
I really have no idea what that means...im still learning about lift/duration etc and trying to put it together with how the heads flow
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 11:20 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by apollo240
I really have no idea what that means...im still learning about lift/duration etc and trying to put it together with how the heads flow
The higher the lift of the cam, the more lift capable valve springs you will need. If you do go with the LS6 cam, you will only need LS6 valve springs, and the 243 heads will flow sufficiently to support that cam.
If you find yourself going with a larger cam and it nears .585" lift or larger, you will start needing more flow than what the stock 243 heads can give. Hence porting and polishing to make them support more like .600" and larger lift. Duration has to do with it too, but I am just giving a brief explanation.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #34  
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You can't change to Z06 top end (cam heads etc) and not tune unless you used a Z06 PCM.

I would do a cam only over doing heads only.

Don't forget the valve covers too. I believe the 99 had perimeter bolts on the covers and they won't fit the Z06 heads.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
You can't change to Z06 top end (cam heads etc) and not tune unless you used a Z06 PCM.

I would do a cam only over doing heads only.

Don't forget the valve covers too. I believe the 99 had perimeter bolts on the covers and they won't fit the Z06 heads.
My 99 has center bolts... not sure if that is all 99's though...
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I believe the 99 had perimeter bolts on the covers and they won't fit the Z06 heads.
Nope...97-98
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #37  
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So I found that I have 3:15's. Actually something werid. I have Z51 in my parts ID. I verifed the VIN's and it matches the door so this should be correct.

AAB AG2 AK5 AQ9 BGR B34 B84 CJ2 C2L DL5 DL8
D42 FE3 FE9 G90 G92 IL3 JAG JL9 K63 LS1 MX0
M30 NF2 NK4 QD4 R8T T96 UL0 UV7 UZ6 U1S U52
VM3 V73 XGG YGH Z51 1AY 1SA 13U 921 923

BC/CC U 9021 923
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by apollo240
So I found that I have 3:15's. Actually something werid. I have Z51 in my parts ID. I verifed the VIN's and it matches the door so this should be correct.

AAB AG2 AK5 AQ9 BGR B34 B84 CJ2 C2L DL5 DL8
D42 FE3 FE9 G90 G92 IL3 JAG JL9 K63 LS1 MX0
M30 NF2 NK4 QD4 R8T T96 UL0 UV7 UZ6 U1S U52
VM3 V73 XGG YGH Z51 1AY 1SA 13U 921 923

BC/CC U 9021 923
You lucked out got the performance version
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
You lucked out got the performance version
Yeah, Im actually quite happy about that. Now if I could just get some of the minor issues straight.....
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