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Looks like a whole lot of extra work for a cam swap, removing steering rack, radiator etc. does all that have to be done with heads?
I read mixed things, does more gain come from 243 heads or ls6 cam? I understand there is better options but im hoping to pick up the cam cheap especially compared to other options. I also read with better aftermarket cams you need to change more parts as well.
You can either look underneath the rear on the side of the diff and the ratio will be on a placard. Or you can look at the code in the glove box. GU2 is for 2.73, G90 is 3.15, and GU6 is 3.42.
I am pretty sure you could get by without a tune, but I would not recommend it. You will get much more out of it with a tune. And if you are going to go through all the work of changing or having the cam changed, you should do a way better cam.
Oh no doubt a tune is a must, besides with headers etc id do it anyway. I was just wondering bc if its drivable, that can save a serious amount of money getting it to the tuner.
Im sure theres plenty of better cam options but i want to keep the gas mileage, driveability, and not break the bank. Id just like to be close to 400rwhp. I cant over do it bc i dont want to destroy the tranny.
Last edited by apollo240; Oct 9, 2012 at 12:14 AM.
You need better valve springs for an upgraded cam. That is true for the LS6 cam as well. LS6 engines had better valve springs to handle the lift. So you need to do at least valve springs.
And no, heads come off the top, most of the work involved in the cam swap is not necessary for the heads alone.
You need better valve springs for an upgraded cam. That is true for the LS6 cam as well. LS6 engines had better valve springs to handle the lift. So you need to do at least valve springs.
And no, heads come off the top, most of the work involved in the cam swap is not necessary for the heads alone.
243 heads on a stock internals LS1 will net marginal gains. 10-15 maybe. Not worth the work or price IMO
Significantly better with the cam and valve springs?
I dont know alot so excuse my ignorance but shouldnt the 243 heads if they are from a Z come with the proper valve springs?
Significantly better with the cam and valve springs?
I dont know alot so excuse my ignorance but shouldnt the 243 heads if they are from a Z come with the proper valve springs?
It is foolish not to re-build heads before going on. Valve springs wear out and most cars are in need of new ones by 100k miles but never get them unless the engine is opened up. You would also want to do new valve seals and have the heads checked for valve guide wear and if the need of a valve job exists.
A cam will always be the biggest power adder in an N/A car. It would do more than the heads, but both together will work off of each other well and make the most power.
It is foolish not to re-build heads before going on. Valve springs wear out and most cars are in need of new ones by 100k miles but never get them unless the engine is opened up. You would also want to do new valve seals and have the heads checked for valve guide wear and if the need of a valve job exists.
A cam will always be the biggest power adder in an N/A car. It would do more than the heads, but both together will work off of each other well and make the most power.
Ok, so if i pick up a set of used heads/cam, i could drop it off at the machine shop, have all that done in the time itll take to get the rest of the parts done.
Am i on the right track to meet my power goal of 370rwhp? Is there an easier/cheaper way to make this power?(nitrous is not an option) Can the stock 4l60e handle this power?
Last edited by apollo240; Oct 9, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
Significantly better with the cam and valve springs?
I dont know alot so excuse my ignorance but shouldnt the 243 heads if they are from a Z come with the proper valve springs?
for a max cam lift of .575 most ppl go with a cam with a higher lift so springs to a .600 or .625 for a cam lift of .590 or so.
most 243 heads do not flow to well above .575 cam lift, unless the heads are ported and polished.
I really have no idea what that means...im still learning about lift/duration etc and trying to put it together with how the heads flow
The higher the lift of the cam, the more lift capable valve springs you will need. If you do go with the LS6 cam, you will only need LS6 valve springs, and the 243 heads will flow sufficiently to support that cam.
If you find yourself going with a larger cam and it nears .585" lift or larger, you will start needing more flow than what the stock 243 heads can give. Hence porting and polishing to make them support more like .600" and larger lift. Duration has to do with it too, but I am just giving a brief explanation.
So I found that I have 3:15's. Actually something werid. I have Z51 in my parts ID. I verifed the VIN's and it matches the door so this should be correct.
So I found that I have 3:15's. Actually something werid. I have Z51 in my parts ID. I verifed the VIN's and it matches the door so this should be correct.