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you're not getting lucky, you're running in CL and the 02's are correcting for it.
If you don't have a wideband and software like HPTuners, you're not going to see what's going on with your fuel trims. There is no way that you can pull off the maf screen and not need to tune it to get the fuel trims back close to 0%.
Can you translate a couple of those statements to English for those of us new to non-carburated, computer controlled engines modifications?
"running in CL"? I assume you don't mean Craigslist
I sort of know what a "wideband" is, but if you could elaborate and educate me a bit on this I'd appreciate it. I know it's an O2 sensor, but not sure how, when or where it's used.
What type of HP tuners software should someone like me be using? Is the auto tune feature something I should look at?
Thanks, and I apologize if I'm hijacking your thread a bit.
LOL!! If you do STUPID SUBMARINE stunts with a VARARAM installed,,,,,,,,,,,,, YEP,,,,,,,,, you will hydrolock the engine,
If you do STUPID stunts in water with an OEM set up,, its possible to hydro lock the engine!
BC
I talked to one of the guys personally, he said he was just driving in a tropical storm down here in SWFL. He was on the highway and just hit some standing water.
It does make sense that the Vararam would be more prone to that with the open intakes down low.
I talked to one of the guys personally, he said he was just driving in a tropical storm down here in SWFL. He was on the highway and just hit some standing water.
It does make sense that the Vararam would be more prone to that with the open intakes down low.
That would be somthing i WOULD NOT recommend ANY vette owner to do if one can help it. Weather he had VR setup or an OEM setup. That is a TON of water and its just not safe to be in a vehicle that low to the ground in situations like that. I too live in florida and these roads become flooded easily in torential downpours like that. There are holes in the corners of the system to allow water to drain out. The intake tunnels themselves are steep. Your friend would have had to hit somthing DEEP (covered the front end of the car) fast enough to hydrolock his motor.
I'd agree with the other posters. I expect your power enrichment fuel has changed and that's the main source of the gains. I was thinking leaner when I read the thread since the factory tune tends to err on the rich side.
Originally Posted by Coach62
I talked to one of the guys personally, he said he was just driving in a tropical storm down here in SWFL. He was on the highway and just hit some standing water.
It does make sense that the Vararam would be more prone to that with the open intakes down low.
It certainly wasn't "some standing water". It was fairly deep puddle that was high enough the water level or the wave pushed ahead by the vehicle reached the intake openings. I can easily pull 35+mpg driving 50mph on a dry day but I've been in rain pushing water heavy enough I was pulling 16-18mpg instead and other cars were pulling off the highway. That was a highway where the normal speed is 70-75mph but all the cars were travelling 50mph due to the heavy rain. I've also been on roads with such bad wheel ruts that I needed 2 hands on the wheel when I hit the puddles in the ruts to not get pulled off the road. No problem with the Vararam. I was more concerned about hydroplaning.
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I had a VaraRam on my 02 z06 and got caught in a few down pours here in Cal and never had a problem. The only problem I had was the last time (2 yrs ago) I got caught in a down poor and it hydroplaned and flew off the freeway and hit a pole and totaled it. Not fun!
I think you would have to submerce the front intakes at speed to force enough water all the way up enough that the engine could suck it in and hydrolock.
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Can you translate a couple of those statements to English for those of us new to non-carburated, computer controlled engines modifications?
"running in CL"? I assume you don't mean Craigslist
I sort of know what a "wideband" is, but if you could elaborate and educate me a bit on this I'd appreciate it. I know it's an O2 sensor, but not sure how, when or where it's used.
What type of HP tuners software should someone like me be using? Is the auto tune feature something I should look at?
Thanks, and I apologize if I'm hijacking your thread a bit.
lots of questions here ... I'll reply very simple because it's a deep hole.
Your computer uses two different systems, OL (open loop) and CL (closed loop) to determine the proper air to fuel mixture.
OL is where the computer reads the tables in the software to determne the proper mixture.
CL is where is uses feedback from the 02 sensors to determine the proper mixture. Example: it's like using a water guage to measure the amount of water when you water your yard. The 02's read the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and convert this into volts that the computer can read.
The 02's your car reads are in a narrow band width and are hard to read. Tuners add a wide band where they can see the reading and use this to tune with.
This is the simple responce to the question.
Anytime you change something to increase aitflow your computer will adjust for it by adding fuel. The problem is when you go wide open. this extra fuel is added and the power is usually reduced.
So for example, if I suspect my O2 sensor is bad, I could unplug it which could put it into OL. If the problem improves, it means the O2 sensor is likely the cause, am I getting this correct?
Thanks for bringing this back to a MAF thread. Everyone started talking about Varrarams...
I understand what everyone who knows what they are talking about are saying. I shared this thread because I befitted in every way from doing this. That might be strange, but I'm happy with what happened. It will be fine like this till the next tune at least. There are no codes, and nothing going on except better fuel economy and throttle response and even more SOTP feeling.
If anything the computer went leaner.. the car is defiantly getting on it harder and there is no sign of a rich mixture in the tailpipes. (There's even less than before). No lack of WOT response either.
Anyone can call ********, that's fine, your not here and cant see for yourself. In the long run this will benefit as I will be getting another tune after the heads and cam go in.
So for example, if I suspect my O2 sensor is bad, I could unplug it which could put it into OL. If the problem improves, it means the O2 sensor is likely the cause, am I getting this correct?
No, your car will just throw codes. O2 sensors get weak and slow, but they are still working and the computer needs to see a signal. Nothing will get better without it being there.
I had a VaraRam on my 02 z06 and got caught in a few down pours here in Cal and never had a problem. The only problem I had was the last time (2 yrs ago) I got caught in a down poor and it hydroplaned and flew off the freeway and hit a pole and totaled it. Not fun!
I think you would have to submerce the front intakes at speed to force enough water all the way up enough that the engine could suck it in and hydrolock.
So for example, if I suspect my O2 sensor is bad, I could unplug it which could put it into OL. If the problem improves, it means the O2 sensor is likely the cause, am I getting this correct?
Well, yes and no. Dad's truck starting running really badly and had a CEL. A quick check showed one of the O2 sensors had no output and had thrown the code. So, we unplugged it and that forced the truck to open loop and it ran much better until he got a new one and replaced it. So, unplugging an O2 and having it run better could mean the O2 was bad but doesn't for sure mean the O2 was bad.
Originally Posted by NukeC5
If anything the computer went leaner.. the car is defiantly getting on it harder and there is no sign of a rich mixture in the tailpipes. (There's even less than before). No lack of WOT response either.
Hence why I posted that it likely ran better because it was leaner. You can go leaner than stock and improve the power and throttle response to a point, and then you start melting parts.
[/QUOTE]
Hence why I posted that it likely ran better because it was leaner. You can go leaner than stock and improve the power and throttle response to a point, and then you start melting parts.[/QUOTE]
Yes, that makes sense. My car has been tuned. They usually tune it to the max and back if off a little to be safe. So I probably brought it back closer to the max. I think it will be fine for now. Wont be long till the next tune.
Thanks for the info. I think we are on the right track.
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