Noise after removing bolts
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 91
From: Indiana
Noise after removing bolts
I lowered by removing front bolts. Looks great by the way, sitting at 26 inches. Now I can hear a grinding/scraping noise at low speeds mainly during left turn. Help.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 297
Likes: 9
From: Holiday Shores IL
I don't believe you are supposed to remove the bolts.
See this link.
http://frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbies/c...5_Lowering.htm
See this link.
http://frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbies/c...5_Lowering.htm
Last edited by RealmSteel; Sep 14, 2012 at 08:52 PM. Reason: added link
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 128
Likes: 21
From: Meridian ID
pics or it didn't happen
When I lowered mine, the front air dam started dragging going through dips and backing into my driveway. Mainly the end parts but it sure makes a racket.
When the crash bar hits for the first time you will think you are going to die.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
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Melting Slicks
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Resident moron
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Assachusetts
Lots of people remove them, but you'll want to put something between the spring and control arm so you're not getting metal on metal contact. Some people even use some cut-up pieces of inner tube for example.
Dope
Dope
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From: South Western Ontario
Tech Contributor
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
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From: Belleville Mich.
There is a metal (female insert) designed into the spring itself, that allows the adjuster to screw into the spring.
When the adjuster is remove there would be metal to metal contact.
Under those conditions it would be best for a rubber buffer to be laid between the metal spring insert & arm.
Also under those conditions the ride would be quite harsh & unforgiving.
When the adjuster is remove there would be metal to metal contact.
Under those conditions it would be best for a rubber buffer to be laid between the metal spring insert & arm.
Also under those conditions the ride would be quite harsh & unforgiving.
Last edited by bumble-z; Sep 16, 2012 at 05:05 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
I glued a piece of rubber onto the control arm. Two years later they are still holding up well. The shocks are blown and creaking, but the spring and control arm are doing great!
Don't listen to people that say "YOU WILL DEFINITELY BREAK EVERYTHING AND CRASH AND DIE."
Just get a nice durable cushion attached to the control arm (as mentioned, an inner tube would work well) and get a decent alignment.
Jack
Don't listen to people that say "YOU WILL DEFINITELY BREAK EVERYTHING AND CRASH AND DIE."
Just get a nice durable cushion attached to the control arm (as mentioned, an inner tube would work well) and get a decent alignment.
Jack
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
Have you ever actually seen someone damage a spring this way? Not trying to be critical of your advice, but I have seen SO many cars with bolts removed that I figured if this were a problem I would have run across a damaged spring by now.
Jack
Jack
Resident moron
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,746
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From: Assachusetts
I was thinking the front spring has a metal bracket of sorts around the ends of it, like the rear spring. But I am probably mistaken now that I think of it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Well, even if you put something to protect the spring to A-arm on the front you're still lowering the back so far that it is riding on the bump stops. The cars lowered that way must really suck to drive on any road that isn't nice and smooth.
To each there own though. I drive my car far too many miles a year for it to ride like a harsh piece of crap.