Lock Code Gone but.....
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
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Lock Code Gone but.....
I added the jumper on the 12177233 relay and the lock code is eliminated.
However, if the car site for a few days I appear to have no electric current. If I remove the negative from the battery and connect it back the electricity is restored and the car will start.
And, not sure if it's related but now I get Service ABS, Service Traction Control System, and Service Active Handling System.
Any ideas
However, if the car site for a few days I appear to have no electric current. If I remove the negative from the battery and connect it back the electricity is restored and the car will start.
And, not sure if it's related but now I get Service ABS, Service Traction Control System, and Service Active Handling System.
Any ideas
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
This is what I did
As per the information I found here. I removed the BCM to locate the mod relay Omron # 12177233 and used a jumper wire between the white wire (pin30) and the orange wire (pin 87).
This removed the lock code, steering wheel released, and car starts.
I did not replace the relay yet, jumper is still in.
After a few days the car appeared to be dead. If this happens all I have to do is remove one of the battery connections for a split second, tighten it back up and the power is back, the car will start. Could this be caused by my not replacing the relay and using the jumper wire?
I get the following codes C1288H, C1287H, C1276H, C1248H, C1222H, and C1214H.
This removed the lock code, steering wheel released, and car starts.
I did not replace the relay yet, jumper is still in.
After a few days the car appeared to be dead. If this happens all I have to do is remove one of the battery connections for a split second, tighten it back up and the power is back, the car will start. Could this be caused by my not replacing the relay and using the jumper wire?
I get the following codes C1288H, C1287H, C1276H, C1248H, C1222H, and C1214H.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Sorry about that. I have a 2003 ZO6, manual shift.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
For starters you need to remove the jumper you put into place on the car. Read this post and pay attention to the blue highlighted sentence:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577935348-post15.html
The relay could be fried but jumpering it out is not advised on 2001 and newer cars. If you know how to bench test the relay do so. Otherwise get a replacement. take the suspect on to the parts store to get a replacement. About $25 at a parts store or $50 at a stealer.
If your battery goes dead in a few days then you either have a bad battery, loose connections at battery cables (including at the starter) or you have a current drain.
Here is info about isolating a current drain:
The correct BCM current draw should be 20 Milliamps or less. Most C5 run around 25ma
but I have see some as low as 15 ma.
Leave the engine compartment fuse box for last and start with the passengers compartment
box first. Pull the power seat breakers FIRST! The power seats have a tendancy stay on
and cause this issue.
Also pull the fuses for the Bose system amp.
Examine the car in the dark for lights staying ON.
Once you prove the interior circuits good,,, check the headlight circuits, and then test
the current draw of the alternator.
Look at my electrical stickey. I think I cover this in detail in that post.
There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw
-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off
Here are details including pictures on how to connect up the meter to find the current drain:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567522286-post590.html
I personally would start with the battery because it is more suspect IMHO.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577935348-post15.html
The relay could be fried but jumpering it out is not advised on 2001 and newer cars. If you know how to bench test the relay do so. Otherwise get a replacement. take the suspect on to the parts store to get a replacement. About $25 at a parts store or $50 at a stealer.
If your battery goes dead in a few days then you either have a bad battery, loose connections at battery cables (including at the starter) or you have a current drain.
Here is info about isolating a current drain:
The correct BCM current draw should be 20 Milliamps or less. Most C5 run around 25ma
but I have see some as low as 15 ma.
Leave the engine compartment fuse box for last and start with the passengers compartment
box first. Pull the power seat breakers FIRST! The power seats have a tendancy stay on
and cause this issue.
Also pull the fuses for the Bose system amp.
Examine the car in the dark for lights staying ON.
Once you prove the interior circuits good,,, check the headlight circuits, and then test
the current draw of the alternator.
Look at my electrical stickey. I think I cover this in detail in that post.
There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw
-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off
Here are details including pictures on how to connect up the meter to find the current drain:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567522286-post590.html
I personally would start with the battery because it is more suspect IMHO.
A stone cracked my shield, have full glass coverage and had it replaced. Approximately 3 months later I got the lock code and the steering wheel locked.
I'm going to pick up a new relay to see if that corrects the issue and I'll get back to you. Thank you for your help.
