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Background: I just picked up this 99 TR FRC a month ago. My first Vette
sadly it's been giving me some trouble. last week, I was driving home and the engine didn't feel right. I pulled over, looked under the hood, the car, all the temps are fine, no check engine light etc...I thought I was just imagining things. started the car and I hear random knocking sound from the driver side along with rpms boggging called the flatbed and got it home. Spring in question is the last one
took the intake manifold off and found two plastic pieces rattling inside.
couldn't find where they came from, checked the manifold for and cracks etc..nothing. looked at air bridge and intake...nothing. I put manifold back on and started the car but the noise is still there.
now I'm on a mission to find the cause of this strange occurrence. the rods are straight along with rockers. Im too tired to pull the heads
Thanks for reading and opinions
Last edited by Hamirvette; Sep 22, 2012 at 11:29 AM.
They may be pieces from the plastic lifter buckets. I can't remember the correct name but someone will.
So you are suggesting, that the plastic pieces broke off the lifter tray, when through the oil system, and somehow escaped through the cylinder head.....into the intake manifold?
Im just as confused as you guys are as to what it is. last week I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and a clip or something might have fallen in during the process?
Im just as confused as you guys are as to what it is. last week I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and a clip or something might have fallen in during the process?
Any other recent engine work you have forgot to mention?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
As light as they are, how did they not get sucked into any one of the cylinders?
I wonder if some previous owner or so-called "mechanic" was prying on, or screwing around with trying to remove/replace the large fitting on the rear of the manifold and broke some pieces that fell inside?
Any other recent engine work you have forgot to mention?
Sorry I should of mentioned that in the original post, but NO I havent done anything else to the engine. I have been fixing the little issues since I got the car (dim hvac, window motor, headlight motor etc..) but nothing to the engine except oil change.
Sorry I should of mentioned that in the original post, but NO I havent done anything else to the engine. I have been fixing the little issues since I got the car (dim hvac, window motor, headlight motor etc..) but nothing to the engine except oil change.
The part 568 in the diagram is intact on the back
Good point LoneStar.
To the OP, just because it appears "intact", does not mean the locking tabs are not broken inside. You can see them from the TB opening, but the manifold needs to be removed, and use a flashlight.
To the OP, just because it appears "intact", does not mean the locking tabs are not broken inside. You can see them from the TB opening, but the manifold needs to be removed, and use a flashlight.
Thanks I will double check, manifold is currently out of the car and went through it with a microscope. nothing wrong there.
What air intake are you running, stock? Might be from a part in front of the throttle body.
stock intake and bridge. little torn pieces from the old/brittle accordion coupler is a strong suspect. I tossed it and bought a silicon one yesterday.
The spring retainer looks "cocked/angled" to me. I would remove the spring and inspect everything. If you can pressurize the cylinder (via air into the spark plug) you can remove it without removing the head. Not sure if you have enough room to do that. If you need more info on this send me an email with your phine number and we can discuss. Sam
Thanks everyone for the advice
UPDATE: took the heads of and found #7 had a rubber piece little bigger than a quarter. thank god it wasn't metal/hard piece. didn't damage valves or pistons. now just need to replace gaskets, plugs and wires, coolant and be done with it.
Q: where is the cheapest/quickest place to get OEM head bolts? I didn't know they are TTY and can't be reused.
Thanks everyone
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Hamirvette
Thanks everyone for the advice
UPDATE: took the heads of and found #7 had a rubber piece little bigger than a quarter. thank god it wasn't metal/hard piece. didn't damage valves or pistons. now just need to replace gaskets, plugs and wires, coolant and be done with it.
Q: where is the cheapest/quickest place to get OEM head bolts? I didn't know they are TTY and can't be reused.
Thanks everyone
Since you've removed both heads, I would recommend ARP head bolts (or better yet, ARP studs) as you can:
a. Get them quickly through a variety of vendors/sources.
b. Re-use them should the need ever arise.
Just be sure to use thread lube as recommended (not just plain anti-seize) before torquing.
Thanks everyone for the advice
UPDATE: took the heads of and found #7 had a rubber piece little bigger than a quarter. thank god it wasn't metal/hard piece. didn't damage valves or pistons. now just need to replace gaskets, plugs and wires, coolant and be done with it.
Q: where is the cheapest/quickest place to get OEM head bolts? I didn't know they are TTY and can't be reused.
Thanks everyone
Did you figure out where this stuff was coming from?
Did you figure out where this stuff was coming from?
I am almost certain it was the old brittle coupler. i was thinking about when the noise happened. it was right after a WOT application where the TB would open enough to allow such a piece to pass through and of course the vacuum sucking the rubber in.
I have been using the search function and everyone highly recommends ARP but I just don't have the budget for it right now. Vette is my DD and Im tired of riding my bike to work